Paraguay

Along the Paraguay River

The Guaraní were the most significant indigenous group inhabiting what is now Eastern Paraguay, living as semi-nomadic hunters who also practised subsistence agriculture. The Chaco region was home to other groups of indigenous tribes such as the Guaycurú and Payaguá, who survived by hunting, gathering and fishing.

In the 16th century Paraguay, formerly called "The Giant Province of the Indies", was born as a result of the encounter of Spanish conquerors with the native indigenous groups. The Spaniards started the colonization period which lasted for three centuries. Since the foundation of Asunción in 1537, Paraguay has managed to keep a lot of its indigenous character and identity. Nowadays, the mestizos (Spanish and Amerindian) account for more than 80% of the country's 6.6 million inhabitants and Guarani is, side by side with Spanish, the country's official language.

In the past, Franciscan and Jesuit missions mingled with the Guaranis' dream of Yvy maraë´y, a land without evil, and produced singular societies. The ruins of the Jesuit Missions of La Santisima Trinidad de Parana and Jesus de Tavarangue, UNESCO World Heritage sites, and several villages throughout the country, are witnesses to that peaceful past. On 15 May 1811, a revolution ended the Spanish colonial rule and this day is celebrated as Paraguay's Independence Day.

Shortly after independence came the paranoid dictatorship of Gaspar Rodríguez de Francia (1814–1840) who, convinced of plots to kill him, declared that the buildings in Asunción had to be low enough so that he could see who was on the roof while riding his horse and that at every street corner he should be able to see in all four directions so that would-be assassins would have nowhere to hide. The destruction of colonial buildings that didn't fit in with this scheme robbed Asunción of some architectural gems.

But Paraguay also has a history of wars, having fought with all its neighbours. It was one of the richest countries in the mid-19th century (the only one in America to have railways at that time) before the disastrous 1865-70 War of the Triple Alliance. Paraguay was invaded by the allied forces of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay and after 5 years of heavy fighting and utter destruction, the country surrendered. The result was the loss of two-thirds of all adult males and a great part of its territory.

A unique event was the scene of the first attempt at Communism when 700 people sailed from Sydney, Australia, in 1893 to found "New Australia." Two-thirds of the immigrants eventually returned to Australia but around 2,000 Paraguayans can trace their heritage to Australia.

To complete the fighting with its neighbors, in the 1930s another war broke out, the Chaco War of 1932-35 engaged Paraguay with Bolivia over the possession of the Chaco region. When the war ended, large and economically important areas of the Chaco that belonged to Paraguay were given to Bolivia as part of the peace treaty of 1938.

After World War II, Paraguay received many immigrants. New colonies of Germans, Russians, Italians, Ukrainians, Japanese and Mennonites were established in different parts of the country.

The dictator Alfredo Stroessner was overthrown in 1989 after 35 years of autocracy, and democratically elected governments have ruled since then. Modern Paraguay is largely based upon political uncertainty and economic hardship. Moving to a more modern market economy has increased prosperity but also inequality. While Asunción is filled with new economic prospects and construction, much of the country remains underdeveloped, with poor infrastructure.

With a total surface area of 406,752 km², Paraguay is divided by the Paraguay River into two well-differentiated natural regions: the Eastern or Oriental Region and the Western or Chaco Region, each one with their own fauna, flora, and particular characteristics.

Although Paraguay is landlocked, the country is watered by numerous rivers, streams, and lakes, which are all part of the Rio de la Plata river basin. The two principal rivers are the river Paraguay, which divides the country in two, and the river Paraná, which forms the frontier with Paraná state in Brazil and with Corrientes and Misiones provinces in Argentina.

Overall Paraguay is a quite flat country; while its western neighbours Argentina and Bolivia include mountains higher than 6,000 m above sea level, the highest point in Paraguay is Cerro Tres Kandú with a height of 842 m.

The Paraguay climate is generally hot for most of the year. The fact is that the Tropic of Capricorn passes through the city of Belén in Northern Paraguay, dividing the country into a tropical area to the north and a temperate one to the south. The hottest time of year is from November to February when daytime temperatures can peak around 45 °C (113 °F) and high atmospheric pressure makes just walking along the street a tough task.

Winter (June to September) is pleasantly warm during the day (around 20 °C (68 °F) to 25 °C (77 °F)), generally sunny and dry but frequently cool at night with the occasional morning frost. January is the hottest month with an average maximum temperature of 36 °C (97 °F), and July is the coldest with a minimum average of 9 °C (48 °F).

Eastern Paraguay can be very humid, while western Paraguay (the Chaco) is dry. There is no real rainy season, but from September to November electric storms become more frequent and travelling off-road can be more difficult. The climate generally follows the prevailing winds, viento sur (southerly winds) bringing cooler temperatures from Patagonia and viento norte (northern winds) bringing hotter weather from the tropics.

Paraguay, like its neighbours, is a 'melting pot' of cultures. The indigenous presence here is prominent; most of the population is of mestizo origin, and Guaraní is an official language along with Spanish. Major European ancestries include Spanish and Italian.

Paraguay has a sizeable German population, and the Chaco is known for its well established Mennonite communities. Alfredo Stroessner, dictator for decades in the 20th century, had German roots.

Paraguay is classified as an upper middle income developing nation. Recognized as one of the fastest-growing economies in South America, it has achieved strong macroeconomic stability through agricultural commodity exports and its massive, clean hydroelectricity.

Paraguay's rural landscape consists of two distinct farming regions. As one of the world's top exporters of soybeans and beef, the sector accounts for roughly 65% of the country’s total exports. While traditionally known for extensive cattle ranching, the region has recently faced significant land-use changes.

Most travellers "of" the beaten track will not enjoy Paraguay nor recommend it to others. It can certainly not keep track with sights like Torres del Paine, Salar de Uyuni, El Calafate or Machu Picchu in South America. However, for people disgusted with the commercialisation of travelling and in the search of the journey to themselves and the authentic side of South America, Paraguay offers many gems, a laid-back and inexpensive journey, and a way to the warm heart of South American people.

Tourism website

Citizens of Mercosur member states ― Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru ― enjoy freedom of movement in Paraguay. They can just enter with their National ID card.

All adult visitors from South American countries, except the Guyanas, may enter Paraguay with their National ID card. All other visitors travelling to Paraguay are required to carry a valid passport. Visa-free access for visitors from the European Union, Latin American countries, as well as South Korea (30 days), Japan, Israel, Malaysia (30 days), the Philippines (30 days), South Africa and Taiwan. All tourists are granted a tourist visa for 90 days.

In case you leave the country via one of the many land borders, an exit stamp is not necessarily required if you travel visa-free and receive a proper entry stamp in the following country. On (re-)entry into Paraguay, no one will check your existing stamps for completeness. Also, in case you visit Ciudad del Este, you might travel forth and back between the border for various reasons, hence just having entry stamps of both countries (Brazil and Paraguay) is convenient. Entering/leaving through one of the many land borders can be a good way of leaving the country in case you accidentally overstayed.

Visas are no longer required for citizens of Australia, New Zealand, the United States, and Canada. Travellers of all other nationalities should check the visa requirements for their country with the nearest Paraguayan Embassy before travelling to Paraguay.

Except for the countries named above, visas must be obtained in advance through the Paraguayan Embassy or Consulate, as they are not available upon entry to the country.

Paraguay has many land border crossings and allows for easy entry from Bolivia, Brazil and Argentina if you have a valid visa or can enter visa-free. Border formalities are sometimes not carried out at the border but at the next bigger city/town, like in Concepción coming from Bolivia or Brazil, or in Mariscal Estigarribia coming from Bolivia or Argentina. Otherwise Formosa to Asunción, Ciudad del Este and Encarnación are straight forward.

Although it is in the centre of South America, there isn't an abundance of flights. The only intercontinental flight is the four-times a week Air Europa's offer from Madrid Barajas to Asuncion, so most overseas travellers must change planes either in São Paulo (for those coming from North America, Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia), Buenos Aires or Santiago (for those coming from Australia and the Pacific), and Lima or Panama City (for those coming from Central America and the Caribbean). The main international airport is Silvio Pettirosi (ASU IATA) 10 km outside the capital, Asunción.

The following airlines offer direct flights to Paraguay:

Aerolíneas Argentinas (to Buenos Aires).

Air Europa (to Madrid and Cordoba).

Amaszonas (to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Montevideo, Buenos Aires, Salta, Corrientes, Campo Grande, Porto Alegre, Campinas, Rio de Janeiro and Iquique). (updated Jan 2018)

Avianca (to Lima).

Copa Airlines (to Panama City).

GOL (to Sao Paulo).

LATAM (to Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires, Santiago and Lima).

There is a train shuttle between Encarnación, Paraguay and Posadas, Argentina. The service connects both sides of the international border in 10 minutes crossing the Paraná River through the San Roque González de Santa Cruz International Bridge.

Bus service is available to and from a wide range of South American cities. You can take a bus from Santiago, Chile; São Paulo, Brazil; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Cordoba, Argentina; Santa Cruz, Bolivia; Montevideo, Uruguay; Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Buses are very modern and some buses have seats that fully recline into beds. In Spanish they are called coche-cama. Semi-cama recline most of the way.

The bus to and from Bolivia crosses the Chaco. Only one bus company does the trip, from Santa Cruz to Asunción, with possible stops at Villamontes (Bolivia) or a few kilometers of Filadelfia (Paraguay) but typically for the same price. Beware that tourists should bargain, with minimum prices of US$45 (payable in local currency or in USD). The trip takes at least a full day, and easily more. The bus coming from Santa Cruz passes Villamontes at about 02:00.

The bus from Ciudad Del Este (Paraguay) at the border with Brazil is typically cheaper for going to Rio or São Paulo than the bus going from Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil). To go to Puerto Iguazú (Argentina) many city buses cross Brazil (without Brazilian border control) into Argentina for only AR$10 or ₲10,000. Best visit the border in advance to get an exit stamp for Paraguay because not all buses make a stop, otherwise ask before jumping on a bus.

Two boats travel regularly from Concepción up the Paraguay River to Bahía Negra (near the Bolivian border) or Fuerte Olimpo (mostly for Brazil) once a week and back stopping at all Paraguayan ports allowing for entry from/to Brazil and Bolivia. These boats were not designed to carry a great number of passengers, but have private cabins for up to 4 people. So, expect a sticky crowded experience, but you can buy just about anything on board, even cold beer.

From Bolivia you need to organise transport between Puerto Suárez and Puerto Busch at the southern end of RN4, and from there a boat to/from the Paraguayan side, most like using the Estación Biológica “Los Tres Gigantes” option, or directly to/from Bahía Negra. However, there seems to be a proper trail through the jungle to Bahía Negra (~10 km) from the most southern corner of Bolivia (in this region). Check out the maps (OpenStreetMap) and satellite pictures.

Buses, also called Colectivos in Paraguay, are the most common public transport. There are many companies running different lines.

When leaving from Asunción, the web page of the bus terminal has information about ticket prices for all destinations and bus companies as well as departure times. The site is in Spanish only and there's no information about travel times nor schedules for trips towards Asuncion.

Some intercity bus companies include:

Nuestra Señora de la Asunción

La Encarnacena

Taxis are expensive compared to other prices in Paraguay, and in Asunción, the fares are determined by the meter. Tipping in taxis is not customary among locals (although drivers do appreciate it). Expect to pay a small surcharge on top of the fare if you are taking a taxi late in the evening, or on a Sunday.

Outside Asunción there are no meters so make sure you decide on a price before you get in. Bargaining on a price may be useful, as tourists have been asked for US$10 for a five-minute ride. To prevent any disputes, always ask your hotel concierge how much the real cost of the fare should be.

There are highways connecting all the major regions of Paraguay, but most of them are one lane each way. You may hit toll booths along the way. Keep in mind that in Paraguay, you must drive with headlights on at all times, even during daytime.

Police may pull you over for any reason and will expect bribes. Locals may say that the most common way to avoid giving too much money on the bribes requested by the 'polícia caminera' (road police) is by giving them a small guarani note while shaking their hands when they stop your car. Also, it is advised that, when they ask you, play dumb until they let you go with a warning and do not admit to travelling through Paraguay for the first time. Refrain from handing out bribes, known as coimas, since it is only harmful for the country. Tell them that you don't carry money and that you weren't aware that was not allowed. If you have committed something wrong, you should pay the fine and always ask for a receipt.

You will probably only face this kind of problem with the police on the country roads. These problems do not generally occur in any of the wealthier areas of the major cities where you can keep a somewhat 'nicer' relationship with the police.

Contrary to expectations, tugged between Northern Argentina, Bolivia and Western Brazil, which are not very popular with hitch-hikers, travelling by thumb in Paraguay is possible and surprisingly easy for tourists, even though not generally common. Along the main roads with much traffic, you will always find the odd helper that takes you along the way, even couples and women. Often, you will not have to wait longer than 15 min, but barely an hour. Hitch-hiking can be considerably faster than taking the bus around Paraguay that stops every 5 km to pick up/off. Nevertheless, on rural roads traffic can be very light, and often people use motorbikes or cover only short distances, thus hesitant to pick you up. But you can always try to opt for the bus if the thumb does not work.

Do not expect big conversations with locals like in Southern Argentina: the attitude of people is more like in Chile. But Paraguay offers far better access to passing cars than Chile with its major and complicated highways in the center.

If you are travelling on foot, by thumb, by bicycle or by car, it is important to have a proper and reliable map with you. In addition, using GPS navigation adds an extra layer of safety, both in cities as well as the countryside. For reliable (offline) maps and comprehensive trails and map information, consult OpenStreetMap, which is also used by this travel guide, and by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz. Or just download the according GPX or KML files through Waymarked Trails for such trails on OpenStreetMap. (Note, you just need to change the OpenStreetMap relation ID to download the GPX or KML files through the same link.)

Areté Guazú (Big Festival) - a three-day indigenous celebration held between February/March in many locations, including Filadelfia and Mariscal Estigarribia.

Expo Rodeo Trébol - the largest expo and rodeo event of the Chaco, held mid-August in Loma Plata.

Transchaco rally - major sports event that affects the Central Chaco Region during late September.

The currency is the guaraní (ISO 4217 code: PYG), denoted by the symbol ₲. The abbreviation "GS." is generally used locally, and it is used in Wikivoyage articles as well.

Banknotes are issued in denominations of ₲2,000, ₲5,000, ₲10,000, ₲20,000, ₲50,000 and ₲100,000. Coins are issued in denominations of ₲50, ₲100, ₲500 and ₲1,000.

Always check the exchange rate quotations online or several major newspapers before exchanging money. However, since summer 2015 exchange rates to the US dollar have been quite stable.

ATMs are widespread, even in places like Vallemí. Most banks (Banco Continental, BBVA/B24, Regional, Vision Banco, Itaú, Banco Familiar, Banco Interfisa, etc.) however belong to the same network (Red Infonet) and charge GS.25,000 for each withdrawal with a credit card, but allow amounts up to GS.1,500,000. BNF uses a different network but is not reliably working with Visa. You might be lucky with an international bank, but they are hard to find or just do not exist.

Never exchange money with the vendors on the street. They usually have very bad rates and cannot be trusted.

In Asunción, there are many regular cambios, which offer quite competitive rates for US dollars and other foreign currencies, with the exchange rate being barely 1% off the interbank exchange rate.

This way, exchanging money instead of using credit cards and ATMs is preferable. However, carrying too much (foreign) money is not a good idea. However, if you are coming from Uruguay, it might be a good idea to use the ability of their ATMs to withdraw US dollars for this purpose. Otherwise, in Paraguay, you will always have to withdraw larger amounts of cash with ATMs to keep the fees low.

Paraguay has been ranked by several research studies as the cheapest country in the world, measured through Purchasing Power Parity (such as the Big Mac Index). Prices in Paraguay are very low, and a budget traveller will be able to get by on as little as $7-$14 a day and even less if camping. A clean, single hotel room out of Asunción should not cost more than $10.

However, this cheapness is not regularly achievable when travelling on a budget level. Sometimes there are no hostels around and one has to settle for a little more expensive hospedaje room (€5-€10) in remote regions. Also, bus travel is generally more expensive than in Bolivia due to the fewer competing bus companies. This can increase travel costs and make Paraguay a more expensive destination than Bolivia or Peru. Nevertheless, suppose you prefer hitch-hiking and have a tent. In that case, it is another story and travelling in Paraguay can be very cheap — such options are less feasible in Bolivia or Peru.

Tipping is uncommon, and service charges are included with the bill.

Paraguay has a very rich and diverse craftmanship, everything from silver filigree (Luque) to cotton fine lace in the form of Ñanduti (Itaugua) is available. Also leather goods with local “repujado” embellishments (Atyra) and ao poi, encaje yu embroidery. Ceramic (Ita) and weavery is also very popular, cheap and beautiful. Leather football balls are sold, and hand made in the town of Quiindy.

Bargaining is not generally common or even necessary. For example, when buying a bus ticket, most will state the same price. When boarding a bus outside of terminals, though, e.g. along the highway, you can ask for a lower price. Even though no one generally does that, they will most likely still take you along for the 10 or 20,000 guaranis less, if you ask. Also, with hostels, you might ask for a lower price by passing on the breakfast. Often, instead of demanding a lower price, just saying that you only got this or that amount left, does work as well. Or if Chipa is GS.2,000, asking 3 for GS.5,000 can work. However, at the market, you generally need big amounts to get a discount: no one will bargain for 12 eggs.

You must try the Paraguayan traditional food, which includes dishes like the following:

Chipa-a bread baked in an outdoor oven or "tatacua", usually made out of mandioca (manioc) flour. Mandioca is often substituted for potatoes. Mandioca, or Mandi´o in Guarani is similar to a potato, and is normally eaten boiled but can be fried. It is eaten almost everyday by Paraguayans, and many have it growing on their land.

Mbeju is a mandioca starch and Paraguayan cheese based flatbread.

Pastel madi'o is a manioc pastry stuffed with "So'o ku'í" or minced meat.

Sopa Paraguaya is a form of corn bread are two of the most well known. Sopa means soup, so it is an unusual experience to be actually eating a solid soup, probably the only one in the world.

Tortillas in Paraguay are different than in other places in Latin America. It is more like a fried dough (made with Paraguayan cheese).

Payagua mascada (Guarani for chewing gum for dogs but has nothing to do with that) is a tortilla also made with manioc and beef (high in proteins and calories).

Try Sopa So'o if you get the chance, which is Paraguayan cornbread with bits of pieces of meat often marinated with garlic and lime.

Pira caldo is a soup consisting of catfish, tomatoes, fat and spices

Asado (BBQ) is great, and prices are quite reasonable - ₲20,000 will get you an all-you-can-eat buffet at many nice places. ₲5,000 is enough to pay for a hamburger.

Also highly popular are empanadas (meat/egg stuffed in a pastry and baked) and milanesa (breaded and fried chicken/beef/fish): these are considered fast food, and are also found in other countries in the region. If you order a hamburger at a restaurant, expect it to come topped with a fried egg.

The most common drink in Paraguay is Mate made of Yerba Mate (Mate herbs) which is similar in style to tea but the preparation is distinct. To add sugar is not common in Paraguay. The infusion is prepared by pouring dry yerba into the cup, then adding water: the hot water version is known as mate (preferred in Argentina and Uruguay) while the cold water version is known as tereré and is a local favourite. When it is hot outside, it is more common to drink it as tereré, served in guampas, which can be made out of wood or of hallow bull horns, and is drunk through a metal straw called a bombilla.

Mate is usually enjoyed in the early mornings and late evenings, especially during cold days in winter. Terere is enjoyed year-round, though not during lunchtime and past sunset, as many recommend. Still, you can see every type of Paraguayan (from construction workers to business executives) carry their tereré set at all times. It is a social activity so the cup is passed around: with in between a refill for each person. If you are offered either you should accept at least one cup. If you can get used to the taste and participate, locals will be appreciative. Often, herbs are added to the tereré water (locally called 'remedios' or 'yuyos', which cure different ailments). For example, adding coconut to one's mate is supposed to help with headaches. The taste is best described as earthy, like a bitter green tea, and it will take getting used to before you can enjoy it.

Drinking mate or tereré is most definitely one of the social customs of Paraguay. Shops will close around noon for a siesta and for a round of mate/tereré with friends.

Another variation of preparation is to boil the yerba on the stove with sugar and then strain it before serving it with milk. It tastes a bit like smoked tea. In this form, it is called Cocido, which simply means "cooked".

Coffee is mostly of an Italian variety.

Gaseosa means fizzy drinks of any description. All the usual brands are available. Try the local Guarana.

Pulp is a very popular Paraguayan soft drink. You can buy it a supermarkets or order it in various restaurantes and bars. The original is Pulp Naranja, made with real orange juice.

Mosto helado is extracted from the sugar cane and very sweet, sometimes mixed with lime juice to make an 'aloja'. You can find street carts selling mosto near the centro area and in the countryside.

In Paraguay, orange juice and other fruit juices, unless squeezed fresh, are almost always reconstituted from dehydrated concentrate. This applies to all unrefrigerated Tetra-Pak juices. The dehydration process destroys vitamin C, and unlike in the West, ascorbic acid may not be added back after reconstitution, thus these fruit juices may not contain any appreciable amount of vitamin C. Either check the packaging, buy fresh juice (freshly squeezed from a street vendor, or Purifru brand in the refrigerator cabinet), or enjoy the wide variety of fresh fruit available on many street corners.

Beer is widely available, as are many liquors. The national beer brand is Pilsen. However, Brazil's Brahma is very popular.

Paraguayan hard liquor is similar to rum and is known locally as caña. It is made from sugar cane.

Camping in Paraguay is possible and easy, especially in remote regions like the Chaco. Many opportunities exist, just along the highways often you need to search a little more, because the roads are often spotted with poor indigenous populations. Camping near the border region with Brazil is probably not recommended. For remote camping sites consult OpenStreetMap, which is also used by this travel guide, and by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz. It is community-based and listed (remote) camping sites are often verified by real people.

Transparency International routinely ranks Paraguay as one of the most corrupt countries in the world. Although Paraguay has a legal framework that penalises corruption, enforcement of it is horribly weak.

The police force is one of the most corrupt institutions in the country. Numerous reports have documented that many members of the police force engage in illegal activities such as money laundering, embezzlement, extortion, and bribery to supplement their very low salaries. In 2015, the commander of the Paraguayan police force, his son, and six others were arrested for stealing $230,000 from the police force's gasoline fund to purchase luxury cars and houses, a rare indictment in a country where corrupt officials enjoy impunity. Therefore, it is clear that you should not trust the police.

Driving in Paraguay is wild and the country has one of the highest road fatality rates in the world. Paraguayan drivers, in general, are known for their careless and reckless driving habits; they often ignore stop signs, do not observe speed limits, do not drive with insurance coverage, and have no regard for safety. Traffic rules are weakly enforced by the police and widely disregarded.

Paraguay's road network, overall, is underdeveloped, poorly maintained, and suffers from chronic underinvestment. During the rainy season (November-April), many roads end up getting flooded, making most road journeys difficult.

Police checks are common in Asuncion and its neighbouring cities. If you've been stopped by a police officer for whatever reason, comply.

The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.00%. In other words, do not drive under the influence.

As usual with diseases – prevention is better than cure. Maintaining good hygiene can help prevent illness.

Be sure to cover up your feet when treading on unclean floors, soil and sand by using sturdy shoes as you may pick up a foot flea known locally as pique. These pests will usually collect around your toes and lay their eggs under the skin, usually around the toes which if not taken care of can lead to tungiasis.

If you have picked up a pique, you may notice itching or tenderness in your feet. It's recommended to seek medical attention, though oil-based products which you can acquire yourself without a prescription seem to be best at suffocating these:

NYDA® – the World Health Organization (WHO) states that NYDA® which is used to kill head lice is the most effective as it kills adults and eggs.

Vaseline – you could also use Vaseline to suffocate the adults, but the eggs would remain and you would need to apply it consistently so buy several tins.

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) – another albeit more dangerous option is to use a piercing needle, pour hydrogen peroxide at a concentration of one 15 ml (0.53 imp fl oz; 0.51 US fl oz) to 5 liters (169 fl oz.) of clean water over them and then dig the bugs out.

Tungiasis can lead to serious bacterial infections if left untreated including gangrene, so make sure to get this early!

Paraguay is also in the risk zone for the two most common tropical fevers carried by mosquitoes: dengue and yellow fever.

Tap water in Asunción, and possibly Ciudad del Este, is potable. Tap water in the rest of Paraguay should be treated to make it safe for drinking. There have been efforts by PLAN International to bring safe, potable water to communities in rural areas (if there is such water available, it is safe to drink). Ask before drinking water in rural areas: many Paraguayans will claim their water is safe to drink even if it's not purified.

Paraguayans are rather relaxed about time; you can expect your Paraguayan counterparts to be at least 10-20 minutes late for an appointment. This is completely normal and it does not, in any way, imply that Paraguayans are disrespectful. Flights and buses usually never leave on time.

Impatience is not appreciated. Do not shout, raise your voice, or lose your temper in public. Paraguayans conduct themselves in a patient, collected manner and you're expected to do the same.

Food is a huge part of Paraguayan culture. If you've been offered food by your host(s), eat and say good things about it. Not doing so may offend your host(s).

It is always considered courteous for men to shake hands whenever they meet. Between a man and a woman, or two women, it is common to shake hands and to give a kiss on each cheek. Also when meeting, people will ask not how you are, but if everything is all right, ("¿todo bien?"). The response to this is always, yes everything, and you, ("si estoy bien y vos?") Even if you are having a terrible day, when someone asks such as an acquaintance in the street, one always responds with yes, everything.

Ask questions about or demonstrate some interest in the country. As is the case anywhere, Paraguayans appreciate good comments about and interest in their country, customs, and culture.

There are no doorbells in rural areas. Instead, visitors clap their hands outside the gate to announce their arrival.

In Paraguay, due to the small number of tourists and foreigners, during a first encounter people might make jokes or start making fun of you. This is not meant in an impolite way, it is just the people acknowledging differences between you and them and should not be interpreted offensively. Paraguayans, just like Argentinians, especially in the cities and among the youth, tend to have a very acid sense of humour.

It is very difficult to find people who speak English in most of the country, but if you are very patient and try to communicate in Spanish or with signs, most Paraguayans will try to help you out. Those who can will often single you out and begin a conversation themselves, eager to try out their English. People are very kind and helpful, and they will be glad to meet a foreigner.

As is the case in any foreign country, foreign criticism and opinions of Paraguay's government and politicians are seldom appreciated; it could get Paraguayans to think you're insulting their country.

The military dictatorship of Alfredo Stroessner, who ruled Paraguay from 1954 to 1989, is an open wound in the national conscience of Paraguay. The regime tortured, imprisoned, executed and mistreated thousands of Paraguayans, and many others had to flee the country for their safety. This is a sensitive subject, and all discussions about it should be approached with absolute respect and caution.

Wi-Fi access is possible at most cafés and restaurants in large cities and tourist towns. Just have a coffee and ask for the password. Public Wi-Fi is also possible in public places like plazas and shopping malls.