Benbecula (Gaelic Beinn Na Faoghla or Beinn nam Fadhla) is an island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, with a population of 1300 in 2021. The name is a medieval mispronunciation: "pen" meaning flat land turned into "be
Benbecula (Gaelic Beinn Na Faoghla or Beinn nam Fadhla) is an island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, with a population of 1300 in 2021. The name is a medieval mispronunciation: "pen" meaning flat land turned into "ben" for mountain, which it doesn't have. "Becula" means "of the fords" — the island is separated from North and South Uist by channels that you can wade across at low tide, and that are nowadays connected by road. The main settlement is Balivanich (Baile a' Mhanaich) next to the airport.
Grimsay the island just north is linked by the main road, a stepping stone on the way to North Uist.
Grimsay is also the name of an island to the southeast, parted by a channel so narrow you'll hardly notice as the road crosses; both names seem to indicate "green island". This road has been extended to Eilean na Cille, "island of the church", of which nothing remains.
The island is predominantly Gaelic-speaking — English is universally understood — and Roman Catholic. The main road cuts north-south across the boggy interior, while the airport, settlements and amenities straggle along a loop of road along the west coast. Always a poor prospect for arable farming, in the 19th century Benbecula was turned over to sheep and sporting estates, and much of the population was ruthlessly evicted. The island developed rapidly anew in the 20th century for military bases and missile ranges, gaining its airport and other facilities, the road causeways, and many ugly buildings. This means that most visitors use it to fly in, but skip on quickly elsewhere. It's not notably scenic, but its lochs and beaches are tranquil and deserted.
In 1746 Bonnie Prince Charlie (1720-1788) was cast up here, a fugitive after the collapse of the Jacobite Rebellion; Flora Macdonald disguised him as an Irish maid and got him away to Skye. Another famous visitor was Hercules (1975-2001), a tame grizzly bear that in 1980 was being filmed for a Kleenex commercial when his tether broke and he ambled away. There was no sight of him for 24 anxious days — "Have any of the Irish maids' costumes been taken?" — but then he was spotted and tranquillised. Being used to cooked food, Hercules had eaten none of the island's many fish, sheep or chickens, and had lost 95 kg, half his weight. He went on to appear in the James Bond film Octopussy, met Margaret Thatcher and caddied for Bob Hope at Gleneagles. He was buried at his owner's home in Clackmannanshire but in 2015 was re-interred at Langass, North Uist.
Island of the Outer Hebrides, Scotland This article is about the island. For the record label, see Benbecula Records. BenbeculaScottish Gaelic nameBeinn nam FadhlaPronunciation[peɲəˈvɤːlˠ̪ə] ⓘMeaning of namehill of the fordsLocationBenbeculaIsle of Benbecula shown within the Outer HebridesOS grid referenceNF807525Coordinates57°26′46″N 7°19′12″W / 57.446°N 7.320°W / 57.446; -7.320Physical geographyIsland groupUist and BarraArea8,203 ha (31+5⁄8 sq mi)Area rank16 Highest elevationRuabhal, 124 m (407 ft)AdministrationCouncil areaNa h-Eileanan SiarCountryScotlandSovereign stateUnited KingdomDemographicsPopulation1,255Population rank11 Population density15.3/km2 (40/sq mi)Largest settlementBalivanichReferences Isle of Benbecula (/bɛnˈbɛkjʊlə/ ⓘ ben-BEK-yuul-ə; Scottish Gaelic: Beinn nam Fadhla or Beinn na Faoghla) is an island of the Outer Hebrides in the Atlantic Ocean off the west coast of Scotland. In the 2022 census it had a resident population of 1,255 including a sizable percentage of Roman Catholics. It is in a zone administered by Comhairle nan Eilean Siar or the Western Isles Council. The island is about 12 kilometres (7 miles) from west to east and a similar distance from north to south. It lies between the islands of North Uist and South Uist and is connected to both by road causeways. Benbecula's main settlement and administrative centre is Balivanich (Scottish Gaelic: Baile a' Mhanaich, meaning "Town of the Monk"). In 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie was caught in a storm and forced to land on Benbecula. The population of Benbecula were sympathetic to the Jacobite cause, and smuggled him off the island to safety, as the song has it: "over the sea to Skye". In 2006, local residents took control of parts of the island in a community buy-out. The previous landowners, a sporting syndicate, sold their 372-square-kilometre (92,000-acre) estate, which included the Isle of Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay, for £4.5 million, to a community-owned organisation known as Stòras Uibhist, which now manages the land in perpetuity.
1 Benbecula Airport (BEB IATA), Balivanich HS7 5LW, ☏ +44 1970 602051. Daily flights from Glasgow take one hour, operated by Loganair. There are also flights M-F from Stornoway on Lewis: these connect to other destinations such as Edinburgh, but it's quicker to travel to Glasgow and fly from there. The terminal is small but clean and comfy, with toilets and cafe; one hour before flight is early enough to check in. Car hire needs to be booked. The buses across Benbecula run past the airport and village. The airport is also the base for flights such as air ambulance and coastguard. (updated Sep 2023)
Benbecula has long been linked to North and South Uist and doesn't have its own ferry port. The road across the causeways A865 is well clear of the sea and passable in all tides and weathers except for the worst Atlantic storms. To the north it crosses to Grimsay then North Uist, where Lochmaddy has ferries from Uig on Skye (linked by bridge to the Scottish mainland). The road continues north to end on Berneray, which has ferries from Leverburgh on Harris, connected by road to Lewis.
To the south A865 crosses to South Uist, a long island with Lochboisdale near its south tip - this has ferries from Mallaig on the mainland (in winter sometimes from Oban instead). The road continues to cross onto Eriskay, which has ferries from Barra.
Buses run regularly across Benbecula (see "Get around") and connect with the ferries. Buses W10, 16 and 17 run M-Sa along the chain of islands, integrated with ferries so you can travel in a day between Stornoway on Lewis and Castlebay on Barra. Only one service per day plies the entire route, but Benbecula being central has more connections, with four connections from Stornoway, six from Tarbert on Harris, six from North and South Uist, and three from Barra.
You need your own wheels to get around Benbecula and the Uists. No bike hire here, see the listings for North and South Uist.
Buses run six times M-Sa down the causeways from Berneray and North Uist onto Benbecula then onward to South Uist and Eriskay. The route through Benbecula is along the main road causeway via Grimsay to Gramsdale, turning onto the west coast road B892 past the airport and Balivanich village, then south through Nunton and Linaclate to rejoin the main road at Creagorry. On Grimsay the bus normally transits by the main road, but it will loop the island lane on request.
Car hire is available from Car Hire Hebrides (tel +44 1851 706500 their Stornoway office) and Ask Car Hire (☏ +44 1870 602818), both based at the airport.
A car hire office on any of the Western Isles will be relaxed about you visiting other islands in the chain, and may allow drop-off there, but will not permit the car to go to the mainland.
Taxis are scarce on the Benbecula and the distances are large, so don't expect that the drivers will be willing to take every fare.
Macvicars Taxis, based in Liniclate, 01870 603197, offers taxis and bus hire.
Buchanan I & M, based in Benbecula, 01870 602277.
Grimsay is the low-lying island to the north, nowadays a stepping-stone for the road to North Uist. Until the bridge was built in 1960, you either got here by ferry at high tide or sploshed across the North Ford channel at low tide, but not in between. The quiet loop of lane around it is a pleasant cycle ride. This lane connects to the smaller Fraoch Eilean (Heather Island) just north. There is no bridge to Ronay to the east, uninhabited since 1931.
1 Grimsay Wheelhouse is an odd structure from the Iron Age: stone cubicles radiate from a central hearth. There are few signs of domestic use and perhaps it was a ritual site.
2 Dun Ban is an artificial islet, east end of Loch Horneray, half a mile southeast of the wheelhouse.
3 Gramsdale Standing Stones are near the start of the causeway to Grimsay and North Uist. There's one large stone and ten smaller ones in a circle some 30 yards across. An ornately carved Pictish stone (now in the National Museum in Edinburgh) was found here: an important find, as evidence of Pictish culture in the Western Isles is rare. Free, 24 hours.
4 Balivanich watertower is a brutalist upside down cone on stilts outside the airport, built in 1970 to serve the RAF station and no longer in use.
5 Teampall Chaluim Chille 200 yards south of the road past the airport was a medieval church dedicated to St Columba, now little more than a heap of stones.
6 Dun Buidhe is the best preserved of Benbecula's dozen or so Iron Age brochs. It's on an islet in Loch Dun Mhurchaidh, linked by a sturdy causeway. It's been partly built over by a 17th-century village, long abandoned.
7 Shielings of the One Night (Airidh Na H-aon Oidhche) is the intriguing name shared by a series of ancient sites across the Western Isles. This one is a Neolithic chambered cairn which has been partly built over by shielings (shepherds' huts). The common feature of these sites is shielings associated with Gaelic folk-tales, perhaps where wide-eyed shepherd boys were warned of the underworld creatures that would emerge to carry them off, if they didn't eat up all their porridge and say thank you.
8 Cula Bay is the best of the long sandy beaches around the west coast. It's accessed from the main road at Nunton / Baile nan Cailleach.
9 Borve Castle, Torlum. Small ruin of a tower house, built from about 1350 and occupied until the early 17th century. It's also known as "Castle Wearie" and looks it: the structure is unsafe and the view from the lane should suffice. Free. (updated Sep 2023)
10 Museum nan Eilean Lionacleit, Sgoil Lionacleit HS7 5PQ (next to Dark Island Hotel). Tu Th F 10AM-1PM, 2-5PM; W 10AM-1PM; Sa 10AM-3PM. This is a branch of the Stornoway museum housed within Liniclate School. It doesn't have a permanent collection but puts on exhibitions of island culture. Donation. (updated Sep 2023)
11 Peter's Port is the end of the B-road across southeast Benbecula, Grimsay (south) and Eilean na Cille. It's just a slipway for small fishing craft. Wiay is the low uninhabited island seen to the east.
Uist Community Riding School, East Camp, Balivanich HS7 5LA (B892 just south of airport), ☏ +44 1870 602808. Tu-Sa 9AM-5PM. Horse and pony riding, including rides on the beach. Volunteer-run, open all year. (updated Sep 2023)
Golf: Benbecula GC is on the airfield, 4359 yards, par 62, visitor day ticket £25.
Hebridean Way is a way-marked hiking and cycling trail the length of the Outer Hebrides. Northbound, Stage 5 for hikers starts from Liniclate near the causeway from South Uist. It follows the shore to Nunton then cuts inland east (bypassing the main village) to ascend Ruabhal, then north to join the causeway. Cyclists simply stay on the west coast road to reach the causeway, which crosses Grimsay to Carinish on North Uist.
Fishing: mostly trout fishing in the many small lochs.
Snorkelling & freediving: you can have instruction and kit hire for around £75 a head, though half the point of these activities is that you can unroll your wetsuit from the back of the car and plunge in anywhere.
Surfing is possible on Benbecula, but the breaks are better on Lewis.
Liniclate Sports Centre is within the school, which also hosts the museum. The fitness centre is usually open to the public, the pool and games hall are open after school hours in term-time and after midday out of term.
Eilean Dorcha is a music festival at Linaclate, on the southwest coast near the causeway to South Uist. Camping is available nearby; the ferries have an amended timetable and shuttle buses run from the ferry terminals. The next is on 24-25 July 2026.
Bank of Scotland is by the roundabout entrance to the airport, open M-F 10AM-3PM. It has an exterior free ATM.
1 Lovat's, Winfield Way, Balinvanich HS7 5LH (next to hospital), ☏ +44 1870 602719. M-Sa 8AM-9PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Nisa supermarket, tatty exterior but good stock within and a Post Office counter. (updated Sep 2023)
2 Maclennan's, Balinvanich HS7 5LA, ☏ +44 1870 602308. M-Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Well-stocked supermarket with a free ATM inside. (updated Sep 2023)
3 Voove, Johnson Rd, Balinvanich HS7 5LA (behind Stepping Stone), ☏ +44 1870 402108. M-F 9AM-3PM. Internet access, electronic repairs and cables. (updated Sep 2023)
4 Co-op Food, Creagorry HS7 5PG (quarter mile from South Ford causeway), ☏ +44 1870 602231. M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 12:30-10PM. Small convenience supermarket. (updated Sep 2023)
1 The Stepping Stone, Balivanich HS7 5LA, ☏ +44 1870 603377. W-Sa 11AM-8PM, Su noon-6PM. Mostly good reviews for this light spacious restaurant by the airport entrance. Dine in the formal "Sinteag" or in the casual "Food Base". (updated Sep 2023)
Chinese Takeaway is in Balivanich behind the Stepping Stone, open W-Sa 11AM-8PM. It's hit-and-miss.
The Airport Cafe (see above) is generally open whenever the airport is active, non-passengers welcome, and there's free parking by the terminal.
2 Maclean's Bakery, Uachdar HS7 5LY, ☏ +44 1870 602657. M- Sa 9:30AM-1PM, Tu-F 9:30AM-5:30PM. Small bakery for bread, pastries, pies and the like. (updated Sep 2023)
3 Charlie's Bistro, Dungenachy HS7 5LA, ☏ +44 1870 603242. Delightful little place east of the village. They may have rooms. (updated Sep 2023)
Distillery: North Uist Distillery is at Nunton Steadings two miles south of Balivanich. They make gin and whisky.
Hotel bars: The Dark Island Hotel and Isle of Benbecula House Hotel have public bars, see Sleep.
1 Benbecula Distillery, Gramsdale. tours M-F 1:30 PM. Distillery which produced its first spirit in 2024, so you will have to wait until 2029 for the first whisky. The distillery is in an unusual modern building - a former fish factory with the still in a lighthouse styled extension. (updated Oct 2025)
1 Nunton House Hostel, Baile nan Cailleach HS7 5LU, ☏ +44 1870 602017, nuntonhousehostel@hotmail.co.uk. A four-room hostel with 4 bunks per room, in a beautifully renovated 18th-century mansion. Bunk £30 ppn. (updated Sep 2023)
Mornay B&B is at Aird HS7 5LT, half a mile south of the supermarket.
2 Ceann na Pairc, 3 Baile nan Cailleach (Nunton) HS7 5LU (behind hostel), ☏ +44 1870 60201. Friendly B&B with one single and three double rooms. Apr-Oct minimum stay is two nights. B&B double £100. (updated Sep 2023)
3 Borve Guest House, 5A Torlum HS7 5PP (by Borve Castle), ☏ +44 1870 602685. Welcoming four-room place. (updated Sep 2023)
Otter's Edge or Shell Bay is a camping and caravan site in Liniclate between Borve guesthouse and Dark Island Hotel. It has good facilities and is open mid-April to mid-September.
Orcadia Guest House is in Liniclate HS7 5PJ.
4 Dark Island Hotel, Liniclate HS7 5PJ, ☏ +44 1870 603030. Mediocre reviews for this small hotel and restaurant. B&B double £150. (updated Sep 2023)
5 Isle of Benbecula House Hotel, Creagorry HS7 5PG, ☏ +44 1870 603046. Comfy small hotel run by same management as Dark Island, with public bar and restaurant. B&B double £130. (updated Sep 2023)
Self-catering cottages are dotted around the island, including some called "guest house" that no longer run as B&Bs.
Midges! Midges, midges, midges! They're a real nuisance in summer, in silent pesky clouds, and even if you don't see them, you'll find lots of bite marks later. Think twice about camping if you react badly to bites. The only sure repellent is a strong breeze... and close that door before they all get in.
The other hazards here are likewise natural: weather, soggy moors, seas that can quickly turn rough. So it's standard advice about stout footwear and warm clothing, as if Captain Obvious was squiring your Auntie Morag.
North Uist is an island with similar low terrain, prehistoric remnants, and a haunting emptiness as its population was evicted. It has ferries to Skye, and the road north crosses to Berneray for ferries to Harris.
South Uist is a long island with similar coastal terrain plus an eastern spine of hills. It has ferries to Mallaig on the mainland, and the road south crosses to Eriskay for ferries to Barra.
[edit] Etymology[edit] The first written record of the name is as "Beanbeacla" in 1449. The names Beinn nam Fadhla and Beinn na Faoghla are used in Scottish Gaelic today. All these names are assumed to derive from Peighinn nam Fadhla (pronounced [pʰe.ɪɲəmˈfɤːlˠ̪ə]) "pennyland of the fords" as the island is low-lying. The second element is a loan from Norse vaðil(l) "ford" which was borrowed as Gaelic fadhail (genitive fadhla). Through the process of reverse lenition fadhla, with the ethnonymic suffix -ach has led to the formation of Badhlach "a person from Benbecula". Other interpretations that have been suggested over the years are Beinn Bheag a' bhFaodhla, supposedly meaning the "little mountain of the ford", Beinn a' Bhuachaille, meaning "the herdsman's mountain" and from Beinnmhaol, meaning "bare hill". The island is also known in Gaelic poetry as An t-Eilean Dorcha "the dark island". Current language use[edit] Benbecula has historically been a very strong Gaelic-speaking area. In both the 1901 and the 1921 censuses, all parishes were reported to be over 75% Gaelic-speaking. By 1971, Benbecula and South Uist were classed as 50–74% Gaelic-speaking. It remains a relatively strong Gaelic-speaking area in spite of a continued decline. In the 2001 census, Benbecula overall had 56% Gaelic speakers. The weakest Gaelic-speaking area is Balivanich, with only 37%. All other areas on Benbecula range between 74% (Lionacleit) and 62% (Gramsdale and Uachdar).
[edit] In common with the rest of the Western Isles, Benbecula is formed from the oldest rocks in Britain, the Lewisian gneiss which dates from the Archaean eon. Some around Ruabhal is described as Scourian gneiss of ortho-amphibolite composition. The direction of inclination of layered textures or foliation in this metamorphic rock varies across the island. Pseudotachylites are developed in certain areas whilst dykes and metasediments are noted at various localities. The island is traversed by numerous normal faults most of which run broadly NW-SE though others run NNW-SSE. The Outer Hebrides Thrust, a legacy of the Caledonian orogeny, lies just off the eastern coast of the island and is seen on neighbouring Wiay and Marigaidh. Recent geological deposits include blown sand which is found around Balivanich and the airport and peat which though widespread in pockets, is found in larger quantities in the centre of the island.
[edit] Beach (Cula Bay) on the west coast of Benbecula looking towards South Uist The island is about 12 kilometres (7 miles) from west to east and a similar distance from north to south. It lies between the islands of North Uist and South Uist; it is connected to both by road causeways. Travel to any of the other Hebridean islands, or to the British mainland, is by air or sea. Benbecula Airport on the island has daily flights to Glasgow, Stornoway and Barra. A direct service to Inverness was introduced in 2006 but discontinued in May 2007. There are no direct ferry services from Benbecula to the mainland, but a service operated by Caledonian MacBrayne from Lochboisdale on South Uist provides a five-hour crossing to Oban on the mainland, whilst another service from Lochmaddy on North Uist provides a two-hour crossing to Uig on the Inner Hebridean island of Skye, and hence to the mainland via the Skye Bridge. Ferry services from the islands of Berneray (linked by causeway to North Uist) and Eriskay (linked to South Uist) connect to the other Outer Hebridean islands of Harris and Barra respectively. There is a dense cluster of lochs across almost the entire island, and almost the whole island is below 20 metres (70 feet) in elevation. Climate[edit] Benbecula has an extremely moderated temperate oceanic climate (Köppen: Cfb ), due to its island location. The nearest station to Benbecula is now South Uist, 18 miles (29 kilometres) away. However, a long-standing weather station used to report directly from Benbecula, where the highest temperature ever reported in the Western Isles was recorded at 27 °C (81 °F) on 30 July 1948. Climate data for South Uist Range, 1981–2010, elevation: 13 ft (4 m), 1981–2010 normals Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 7.7(45.9) 7.2(45.0) 8.2(46.8) 10.2(50.4) 12.9(55.2) 14.6(58.3) 16.1(61.0) 16.1(61.0) 14.9(58.8) 12.2(54.0) 9.8(49.6) 8.1(46.6) 11.5(52.7) Daily mean °C (°F) 5.4(41.7) 5.1(41.2) 6.0(42.8) 7.7(45.9) 10.1(50.2) 12.2(54.0) 13.8(56.8) 13.8(56.8) 12.7(54.9) 9.9(49.8) 7.6(45.7) 5.9(42.6) 9.2(48.6) Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 3.1(37.6) 3.0(37.4) 3.8(38.8) 5.1(41.2) 7.4(45.3) 9.7(49.5) 11.4(52.5) 11.5(52.7) 10.4(50.7) 7.8(46.0) 5.3(41.5) 3.6(38.5) 6.9(44.4) Average precipitation mm (inches) 140.1(5.52) 94.9(3.74) 104.3(4.11) 67.3(2.65) 58.3(2.30) 61.7(2.43) 77.7(3.06) 100.5(3.96) 105.4(4.15) 136.2(5.36) 128.9(5.07) 118.4(4.66) 1,193.7(47.01) Average precipitation days (≥ 1.0 mm) 20.6 16.4 19.8 13.2 11.6 13.4 14.0 16.9 15.4 20.8 21.3 19.4 202.8 Source: Met Office Settlements[edit] Benbecula's main settlement is Balivanich (Scottish Gaelic: Baile a' Mhanaich, meaning "Town of the Monk") in the northwest. It is the main administrative centre for Benbecula, North Uist, South Uist and nearby islands, and has the council offices and the administrative centre for MOD Hebrides on South Uist, which is managed by QinetiQ. The village is also home to the airport and the island's bank. Other settlements include Craigstrome, a tiny hamlet in the south-east of Benbecula. In contrast to the cultivated west coast of the island, the eastern half is a mixture of freshwater lochs, moorland, bog and deeply indenting sea lochs. Craigstrome is near Ruabhal, Benbecula's highest hill at 124 metres (407 ft). The township of Lionacleit houses the island's main secondary school, which also doubles as a community centre, with a swimming pool, cafeteria, sports facilities, a small museum and a library. Next door to this is the Lionacleit campus of Lews Castle College. Lionacleit lies on the west coast road, about 1 mile (1.6 kilometres) from its junction with the north–south spinal road near Creagorry. Creagorry is in the south of the island, near the causeway to South Uist. The Co-op here is the main supermarket for the south of the island and for the north of South Uist. Borve Castle is near Lionacleit. The RAF radar station RRH Benbecula monitors the northern Atlantic, but is located on the west coast of North Uist. Nearby islands[edit] Islands in Loch Uisgebhagh. Bearran is at top right, Orasaigh, middle right and the peninsula of Meanais at top left. In addition to South and North Uist, there are numerous islands off the north, east and south coasts. To the north of Balivanich is Baleshare, and further east is Flodaigh, which is connected to Benbecula by another causeway. Beyond Flodaigh are Grimsay and Ronay. Off the east coast there are numerous small islands in Loch Uisgebhagh and beyond, including Bearran and Orasaigh Uisgeabhagh. Eileanan Chearabhaigh in the south east have a total area of 100 hectares (250 acres) spread over several islands, the largest of which is about 31 hectares (77 acres) in extent. Further south is the larger Wiay and west from there a profusion of skerries and small islands lie to the north of Bagh nam Faoileann. These include Seana Bhaile, a second Grimsay, Fodragaigh, Eilean na Cille and Triallabreac.
[edit] Early history[edit] Loch Ba Una A number of standing stones from the Neolithic period are scattered throughout the island, including the remains of a stone circle at Rubha Bhidein, adjacent to the traditional ford to Grimsay. In addition to these, the remains of two chambered cairns lie between Loch Ba Una, and Loch nan Clachan. A Beaker site has been identified a Rossinish. Loch Dùn Mhurchaidh; Dun Buidhe is on the larger island in the distance. The island is rich in built remains from the Iron Age, though they are generally in poor condition. A number of small island forts can be found throughout Benbecula, particularly on Loch Olabhat, but the most substantial is Dun Buidhe, near Balivanich, which has a series of causeways linking it to the loch shore, via Eilean Dubh (Black Island); a wheelhouse was also present nearby (a better preserved wheelhouse survives on the adjacent island of Grimsay), at which Iron Age pottery was found. At the shore near Dun Buidhne was found a Class 1 Pictish symbol stone, inscribed with two basic symbols one of the only indications anywhere in the Outer Hebrides that Picts had been present. Traditional accounts claim that Ternan, an Irish missionary of the late 5th/early 6th century, established a chapel to the south of Dun Buidhe, from which he sought to convert the Picts to Christianity; Balivanich takes its name from this supposed establishment. Kingdom[edit] In the 9th century Viking settlers established the Kingdom of the Isles throughout the Hebrides. Nevertheless, although evidence of Viking settlement has been found in both North and South Uist, there has not yet been found any sign of Viking settlement on Benbecula itself. Following Norwegian unification, the Kingdom of the Isles became a crown dependency of the Norwegian king; to the Norwegians the Kingdom was Suðreyjar (meaning southern isles). Malcolm III of Scotland acknowledged in writing that Suðreyjar were not Scottish, and king Edgar quitclaimed any residual doubts. However, in the mid 12th century, Somerled, a Norse-Gael of uncertain origin, launched a coup, which made Suðreyjar entirely independent. Following his death, Norwegian authority was nominally restored, but in practice the kingdom was divided between Somerled's heirs (Clann Somhairle), and the dynasty that Somerled had deposed (the Crovan dynasty). The MacRory, a branch of Somerled's heirs, ruled Benbecula, as well as Uist, Barra, Eigg, Rùm, the Rough Bounds, Bute, Arran, and northern Jura. In the 13th century, despite Edgar's quitclaim, Scottish forces attempted to conquer parts of Suðreyjar, culminating in the indecisive Battle of Largs. In 1266, the matter was settled by the Treaty of Perth, which transferred the whole of Suðreyjar to Scotland, in exchange for a very large sum of money. The treaty expressly preserved the status of the rulers of Suðreyjar; the MacRory lands, excepting Bute, Arran, and Jura, became the Lordship of Garmoran, a quasi-independent crown dependency, rather than an intrinsic part of Scotland. Lordship[edit] See also: Garmoran At the turn of the century, William I had created the position of Sheriff of Inverness, to be responsible for the Scottish highlands, which theoretically now extended to Garmoran. In 1293, however, king John Balliol established the Sheriffdom of Skye, which included the Outer Hebrides. Nevertheless, following his usurpation, the Skye sheriffdom ceased to be mentioned, and the Garmoran lordship (including Uist) was confirmed to the MacRury leader. In 1343, King David II issued a further charter for this to the latter's son. Ruins of Borve Castle, Benbecula Just three years later the sole surviving MacRury heir was Amy of Garmoran. According to MacGibbon and Ross, Borve Castle (which they date to between 1344 and 1363) was built by Amy; it became the main power seat of power in Benbecula and surrounding islands of North and South Uist. Amy is also reported to have built the parish church of St. Columba on Benbecula; the eastern side of Teampul Chalumchille, an ancient chapel dedicated to St Columba, dates to her lifetime. The southern parts of the Kingdom of the Isles had become the Lordship of the Isles, ruled by the MacDonalds (another group of Somerled's descendants). Amy married the MacDonald leader, John of Islay, but a decade later he divorced her, and married the king's niece instead (in return for a substantial dowry). As part of the divorce, John deprived his eldest son, Ranald, of the ability to inherit the Lordship of the Isles, in favour of a son by his new wife. As compensation, John granted Lordship of North Uist and South Uist (presumably including Benbecula) to Ranald's younger brother Godfrey, and made Ranald Lord of the remainder of Garmoran. However, on Ranald's death, his sons were still children, and Godfrey took the opportunity to seize the Lordship of Garmoran. This led to a great deal of violent conflict involving Godfrey's family (the Siol Gorrie) and the heirs of Ranald (Clan Ranald) and his other brother Murdoch (the Siol Murdoch). In 1427, frustrated with the level of violence generally in the highlands, King James I demanded that highland magnates should attend a meeting at Inverness. On arrival, many of the leaders were seized and imprisoned. Alexander MacGorrie, son of Godfrey, was considered to be one of the two most reprehensible, and after a quick showtrial, was immediately executed. As Alexander had by now inherited Godfrey's de facto position as Lord of Garmoran, and in view of Ranald's heirs being no less responsible for the violence, King James declared the Lordship forfeit. Lairdship[edit] View over Loch Langabhat Following the forfeiture, most of Garmoran (including Benbecula) remained with the Scottish crown until 1469, when James III granted Lairdship of it to John of Ross, the Lord of the Isles. In turn, John passed it to his own half-brother, Hugh of Sleat; the grant to Hugh was confirmed by the king – James IV – in a 1493 charter. Hugh died a few years later, in 1498, and for reasons that are not remotely clear, his son John of Sleat immediately resigned, transferring all authority to the king. That same year, king James IV awarded Benbecula to Angus Reochson, son of Ranald's penultimate son, Angus Riabhach. Angus' son, Angus MacAngus Rewing, became a friar at Iona, and was succeeded by his son John. John died in 1538, without any lawful children; under the charter, this demise of Angus Riabhach's line meant that ownership of Benbecula returned to the King. In 1538, therefore, the king granted lairdship of Benbecula to Allan and Lachlan MacDonald (jointly), the grandsons of Ranald Bane. Ordinarily, Allan would have been the head of Clan Ranald, but the extreme cruelty of his father, Dougall, led to Ranald Bane's descendants being officially barred from the succession; instead leadership of the Clan now rested with Ranald Bane's nephew, John Moidartach. In 1549, Donald Monro, Dean of the Isles wrote of the "south part of Ywst" and went on: and in the north syde of this there is ane parochin callit Buchagla, perteining to the said Clandonald. At the north end thereof the sea cuts the countrey againe, and that cutting of the sea is called Careynesse, and benorth this countrey is called Kenehnache of Ywst, that is in Englishe, the north head of Ywst. Tenancy[edit] In 1596, concerned by the active involvement of Highland leaders in Irish rebellions against Queen Elizabeth of England, King James VI of Scotland (Elizabeth's heir) demanded that Highland leaders send well-armed men, as well as attending themselves, to meet him at Dumbarton on 1 August, and produce the charters for their land. As Allan's heirs did not do so, Benbecula became forfeit, by Act of Parliament. The king then awarded Benbecula to Donald Gorm Mor, the heir of Hugh of Sleat, as a reward for being one of the few Highland leaders who had obeyed the king's summons. Donald Gorm Mor subinfeudated Benbecula to Clan Ranald for £46 per annum. In 1622, however, his successor, Donald Gorm Og, is found requesting that the Privy Council physically punish the Clan Ranald leadership for not removing their families and tenants from Benbecula; presumably they had not been paying the rent. In 1633, Donald Gorm Og decided to sell the lairdship of Benbecula to the Earl of Argyll; in January 1634, this arrangement was confirmed by a Crown charter. In 1661, as a leading opponent of king Charles I, the Earl's son – the Marquess of Argyll – was convicted of high treason, and his lands became forfeit. Thus, in 1673, it was the king demanding that Clan Ranald pay their outstanding rent for Benbecula. Refuge[edit] Flora MacDonald in 1747 In 1746 Flora MacDonald was visiting Benbecula, then controlled by a Hanoverian-supporting militia, an Independent Highland Company commanded by her step-father, Hugh MacDonald. She was additionally a distant relative of two of the companions of Bonnie Prince Charlie (Prince Charles Edward Stuart), who had recently fled in the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden. During his voyage, the Prince's boat was caught in a storm, and he was forced to land on Benbecula. Despite mainly being Presbyterian, Flora and the population of Benbecula were sympathetic to the Jacobite cause, and the Prince and his companions received hospitable treatment. Nevertheless, the Prince was a fugitive with a price on his head, and his companions therefore sought out Flora whose connection to the militia would allow her access to the permits necessary for the Prince’s party to leave the island. She disguised him as an Irish spinning maid, Betty Burke, smuggled him off the island, on 27 June, and took him "over the sea to Skye". Flora was arrested upon her return to Scotland, but was released following the Indemnity Act 1747. Later, she explained in person to the King's son, Prince Frederick, that she had only acted out of charity, and would have done the same for either side. Eviction[edit] Abandoned house on Benbecula In the early 19th century, the leader of Clan Ranald, Ranald George MacDonald, got into severe financial difficulties. The family trust forbade him from even visiting Benbecula. His difficulties were compounded by the enormous debts which had been amassed by his grandfather, in support of Jacobite armies. In 1838, forced to sell his lands, Ranald sold them to Colonel John Gordon of Cluny. Already accustomed to treating people as slaves, and seeing the financial advantages to livestock farming, Gordon was ruthless, evicting the population with short notice, sometimes even resorting to dragging them to the shore in handcuffs, wearing little more than their undergarments. He replaced the residents with sheep. Despite his behaviour causing a national outcry, it was continued by the widow of his son, well into the early 20th century.
[edit] Fish cages In 2001 the census recorded a population of 1,219 the 2011 total of 1,303 being an increase of 7% against an average of 3% for all Scottish islands. By 2022 the population was 1,255. A contributor to the economy is RRH Benbecula. The site near Balvanich also includes Benbecula Airport, with regular flights to Glasgow, Inverness, and Stornoway. Benbecula Distillery is a Scotch whisky distillery at Gramsdale on Benbecula. Developed in a converted salmon-processing facility, the site began producing spirit in June 2024 and features a distinctive glass, lighthouse-style stillhouse. Community buy-out[edit] After a protracted campaign, local residents took control of parts of the island on 30 November 2006 in a community buy-out. The previous landowners, a sporting syndicate, sold the assets of the 372-square-kilometre (92,000-acre) estate including Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay for £4.5 million to a community-owned organisation known as Stòras Uibhist which was set up to purchase the land and to manage it in perpetuity.
[edit] A local myth states that a mermaid, discovered in 1830, is reportedly buried near the sea on Benbecula.