Maldives

The heritage of the Maldives is told in legends, in records of old copperplates, coral-carved ancient scripts and echoes of traditional culture. The story tallies in known South Asian history with mentions of the great Mauryan ruler Emperor Ashoka.

After being a Sultanate under Dutch and British protection, the Maldives gained independence from the British in 1965 and became a republic in 1968. Maumoon Abdul Gayoom ruled over the country with an iron fist and did not hesitate to jail dissidents. He was re-elected five times in more or less rigged elections. Resistance to his rule culminated in violent rioting in 2003 and 2004. Much to everybody's surprise, free and fair elections were held in 2008, and Maumoon conceded defeat to opposition leader Mohamed Nasheed, "Anni". By December 2011, though, the tables had turned. Most of Nasheed's allies had left his government and there were increasingly large anti-government protests. Nasheed resigned in 2012 under murky circumstances and then lost a controversial 2013 election to Maumoon's half-brother Abdulla Yameen, whose administration has cracked down on political freedom and imprisoned opposition figures. During his rule, Yameen withdrew the Maldives from the Commonwealth, and pivoted his foreign policy away from Maldives' traditional ally, India, to align more closely with China in exchange for Chinese investments.

In the 2018 election, Yameen was defeated by opposition candidate Ibrahim Mohamed Solih. Despite fears that he would refuse to step down, Yameen publicly conceded the election shortly after, and handed power peacefully to his successor on 17th November 2018. Under Solih, the Maldives re-joined the Commonwealth in 2020, and has largely pivoted Maldives' policy back to India, though it has continued to maintain cordial ties with China.

The tsunami of 26 December 2004 caused extensive damage to the Maldives - of a population of only 290,000, over a third was directly affected by the tsunami and more than 15,000 people were left homeless. The economic damage alone was over 62% of the GDP or US$470 million. The immediate response from international donors and agencies mobilized more than US$400 million in aid after the disaster, much of which was used to help misplaced persons rebuild their homes and infrastructure damaged by the waves.

Tourism, Maldives largest industry, accounts for 28% of GDP and more than 60% of the Maldives' foreign exchange receipts. Over 90% of government tax revenue comes from import duties and tourism-related taxes. Over 1.7 million tourists visited the islands in 2019. Fishing is the second leading sector. The Maldivian government began an economic reform program in 1989 by lifting import quotas and opening some exports to the private sector. Subsequently, it has liberalized regulations to allow more foreign investment. Agriculture and manufacturing continue to play a minor role in the economy, constrained by the limited availability of cultivable land and the shortage of domestic labour. Most staple foods must be imported. Industry, which consists mainly of shipping, boat building and handicrafts, accounts for about 18% of GDP. Maldivian authorities worry about the impact of erosion and global warming on their low-lying country; 80% of the area is one metre or less above sea level.

Maldivians are entirely Sunni Muslim, and the local culture is a mixture of Sinhalese, South Indian and Arab influences. While alcohol, pork, dogs and public observance of non-Muslim religions are banned on the inhabited islands, the resorts are allowed to exist in a bubble where almost anything goes.

Note that the weekend in the Maldives is from Friday to Saturday, during which banks, government offices and many shops are closed. You won't notice this at the resorts, except that lunch hours may be shifted for Friday prayers.

The Maldives are tropical, with plenty of sunshine and temperatures around 26.4°C (79.52°F) to 31.5°C (88.7°F) throughout the year. However, rainfall increases considerably during the April-October southwest monsoon, particularly from June to November.

The Maldives: Islamic Republic, Tropical Autocracy by J. J. Robinson, a journalist who lived in the Maldives through some of its 21st-century political turmoil. In addition to an interesting look at what life is like for foreigners in Malé and for staff behind the scenes at the resorts, the book gives a detailed and surprisingly readable account of the complex political crises that the country experienced between 2008 and 2015.

Visit Maldives website

The Maldives have a remarkably easy visa policy: Everybody gets a free 30-day visa on arrival, provided that they have a passport valid for a minimum period of 1 month from the date of entry, a return journey confirmed ticket and entry requirements to the onward destinations, a prepaid confirmed hotel booking at a registered hotel or proof of financial means for sufficient funds to support the stay in Maldives (US$100 + $50 per day). See the Maldives Immigration website for details.

Traveller Declaration form must be filled in and submitted by all foreigners arriving to the Maldives, within 96 hours (4 days) to the flight time. The form has to be submitted electronically via IMUGA.

Importing explosives, weapons, firearms, ammunition, pornographic material, vaping products, materials deemed contrary to Islam including ‘idols for worship’ and bibles, pork and pork products, and alcohol into the Maldives is forbidden and all luggage is X-rayed on arrival. Alcohol and pork products are only available on resort islands under a special license. Exporting sand, seashells or coral is forbidden. All dogs are banned from the Maldives. See the Maldives Customs Service website for details.

Practically all visitors arrive at Velana International Airport (MLE IATA), on Hulhulé Island next to the capital city Malé. The airport is served by a wide array of flights from China, India, Sri Lanka, Dubai, major airports in Southeast Asia, and charters from Europe. Many flights stop in Colombo (Sri Lanka) on the way.

If you want to get an amazing aerial view of the islands, try to get a seat on the left side of the flight.

British Airways flies directly from London Gatwick to Malé during the winter (October to March). No direct flights operate from London Heathrow, however, it is possible to get an indirect flight via India or the UAE for example.

Singapore Airlines flies daily direct from Singapore to Malé, with late night timings.

Gan Airport (GAN IATA), on the southern atoll of Addu, serves a few international flights.

Departure taxes are included in your ticket.

There are no regular passenger boats to the Maldives. Even yachts usually steer clear, as navigating around the reefs is hazardous and permits are expensive. Dogs are banned from the Maldives. Even if they remain on your boat the authorities can be extremely sketchy about this compromise, and this can put the life of your dog at risk, should the officials you are dealing with not be sympathetic to your situation. Be sensible and do not bring them into any Maldivian port.

No point in the Maldives is more than 90 minutes away by plane from Malé, and visitors to the more far-flung resorts use air taxi services. Trans Maldivian Airways is the world's largest seaplane operator, with a fleet of DHC-6 Twin Otter seaplanes that take around 15 passengers.

Plane schedules may not be finalized until the previous day and delays are frequent. It is not rare to wait for 5 hours in the TMA lounge. Seaplanes scheduled in the evening have a high risk of being cancelled as delays add up and the sky becomes darker, in such cases TMA will make you take a combination of domestic flight and boat, potentially making you reach your destination well after dinner time.

Scheduled inter-island services are provided by Maldivian, which flies from Malé to Gan, Maafaru, Thimarafushi, Dharavandhoo, Funadhoo, Fuvahmulah, Hanimaadhoo, Ifuru, Kaadedhdhoo, Kadhdhoo, kooddoo, Kudahuvadhoo, Maavarulu, Faresmathoda, Hoarafushi, Madivaru and Kulhudhuffushi. Manta Air and Villa Air also operate scheduled flights.

The taxi boats generally take tourists to and from the islands in the North and South Malé atolls. They come in all different shapes and sizes depending on the quality of the resort you stay, and the Four Seasons has a large enclosed motor cruiser with drinks and food, while the lesser resorts have open-sided dhoni fishing boats.

Public dhoni ferries and cargo boats are available for more the independent-minded and budget-conscious. The main operator is MTCC, who list schedules and fares on their website.

The previous system of requiring written invitations and Inter Atoll Travelling Permits (IATP) for those wishing to visit other islands has been abolished; you're now free to travel wherever you wish. IATPs are still required if you wish to dock your own yacht, see Customs for details.

There are a number of bus routes around the capital including those which connects with the airport. They are run by RTL.

Main topic: Diving in the Maldives

Aside from making the water bungalow rock on your honeymoon, the primary activity on the Maldives is scuba diving. The atolls are all coral reefs hundreds of kilometres away from any major landmass, meaning that water clarity is excellent and underwater life is abundant. Manta rays, sharks, even a few wrecks, you name it, you can find it in the Maldives.

While diving is very good by world standards even in the immediate vicinity of Malé, visibility and the chance of encountering large pelagic fish increases as you head to the outer atolls. Many divers opt for live-aboards, which can work out much cheaper than paying high resort fees. Currents vary considerably, with generally little inside the atolls but some powerful streams to be found on the sides facing the open sea. Water in the Maldives is warm throughout the year and a 3 mm shorty or Lycra dive skin is sufficient. Diving is possible throughout the year, but rain, wind and waves are most common during the season of the southwest monsoon (June-November). The best time for scuba diving is from January to April when the sea is calm, the sun is shining and the visibility can reach 30 m. There are decompression chambers on Bandos in Kaafu (15 min from Malé), Kuredu in Lhaviyani Atoll and at Kuramathi on Alifu.

The one downside to diving in the Maldives is that it's quite expensive by Asian standards. Prices vary considerably from resort to resort, with specialist dive resorts offering better prices. In general, a single boat dive with your own gear cost around US$50, and US$75 without. Beware of surcharges: you may be charged extra for boat use, guided dives, larger tanks, etc. On the upside, safety standards are usually very high, with well-maintained gear and strict adherence to protocol (check dives, maximum depth, computer use, etc.) being the rule rather than the exception.

Hanifaru Bay is a protected biosphere by UNESCO and is famous for some of the largest congregations of manta rays on the planet.

The Maldives is becoming an increasingly popular surfing destination. Turquoise water and perfect waves make it an ideal and uncrowded destination for surfers looking for smooth surfing conditions.

The best period for surfing in the Maldives is between March and October; the biggest waves occurring in June, July and August. This paradise is exposed to the same swells as Indonesia is, except that its higher latitude and its South-East exposure offers cooler and less hardcore surfing.

The O’Neil Deep Blue Contests held in the Maldives have placed Maldives firmly on the world’s surf map. While most of the recognized surf breaks are in Malé Atoll, there is certainly more to be discovered.

Specialized companies organize tailored multi-day boat trips in the region, allowing surfers to move easily from one point to another and maximizing the surfing time.

The local currency is the Maldivian rufiyaa, denoted by the symbol "Rf" or "MRF" (ISO code: MVR). It is divided into 100 laari. However by law, resorts price services in US dollars and require payment in hard currency (or credit card). Most hotels have a shop but this is limited to diving and holiday essentials (sun cream, sarongs, disposable cameras, etc.) Some excursions from resorts will take you to local islands where there are handicraft type things to buy, but they are typically made outside the Maldives and sold at significant markups.

Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25 and 50 laari, 1 and 2 rufiyaa. Banknotes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000 rufiyaa. The current series of rufiyaa banknotes is printed entirely on polymer.

If you are heading to Malé City or the other inhabited atolls, exchanging some rufiyaa will come in handy. The coins, in particular, are quite attractive and make an interesting souvenir in themselves, but the smaller denominations are rarely used or seen. The rufiyaa is tied to the US dollar within a 20% band but is practically 15:1. US dollars are near-universally accepted: shops usually exchange them at 15:1 or 10:1.

Maldivian rufiyaa can be changed at Bank of Maldives in the arrival area of airport. If you want to change rufiyaa back to your currency before departure, you need to keep the receipt. After check in, at Bank of Maldives in the departure area of airport, you can change rufiyaa back to the currency you previously changed to rufiyaa, not exceeding the amount listed on the receipt. The Bank of Maldives may not have small notes of your original currency though.

Tipping is not compulsory in the Maldives as a 10% service charge is added to everything, although it is not certain that the money is passed on to the staff.

Over the years the tipping culture has changed in the Maldives, mainly due to overseas visitors giving varying amounts of cash as tips.

Maldives is expensive for those who have comfort and service-oriented tourism in mind. Resorts have a monopoly on services for their guests and charge accordingly: for mid-range resorts, US$1000 per week per couple is a conservative budget for meals, drinks and excursions, in addition to the cost of flights and accommodation. Practically anything, including hotel rooms if booked locally, has a 10% "service charge" added, but tips are expected on top.

For an adventurous traveller who has time, Maldives can be a very affordable and rewarding experience, with prices comparable to Malaysia. A number of inhabited islands have guesthouses with typical prices €25-40 per room. On more remote islands, renting rooms in villages is possible at even less. Food is inexpensive, and fish curries are delicious. Public ferries will transfer you between different islands of the same atoll for a few US dollars (though for less obvious locations, there will typically be 1 ferry per day and no ferries on Fridays). For transfers to remote atolls, one can negotiate with cargo boats, which would often take people for €14-38, depending on the destination. Cargo boats do not have schedules and depart when loaded. One may expect 1 boat in 1-3 days for each atoll.

It is important to have in mind that staying on inhabited islands implies respecting the strict Muslim norms including no alcohol, modest dress, reserved behaviour. However, the locals are very welcoming and the experience may be much deeper and more rewarding than staying in resorts.

Maldivian food revolves largely around fish (mas), in particular tuna (kandu mas), and draws heavily from South Indian tradition, especially Kerala. Dishes are often hot, spicy and flavoured with coconut, but use very few vegetables. A traditional meal consists of rice, a clear fish broth called garudhiya and side dishes of lime, chilli and onions. Curries known as riha are also popular and the rice is often supplemented with roshi, unleavened bread akin to Indian roti, and paaparu, the Maldivian version of crispy Indian poppadums. Some other common dishes include:

mas huni — shredded smoked or canned fish with grated coconuts, onions, chili and lime juice, the most common Maldivian breakfast (eaten by scooping with flatbread called roshi)

fihunu mas — barbequed fish basted with chili

bambukeylu hiti — breadfruit curry

Snacks called hedhikaa, almost invariably fish-based and deep-fried, can be found in any Maldivian restaurant.

bajiya — pastry stuffed with fish, coconut and onions

gulha — pastry balls stuffed with smoked fish

keemia — deep-fried fish rolls

kulhi borkibaa — spicy fish cake

masroshi — mas huni wrapped in roshi bread and baked

theluli mas — fried fish with chilli and garlic

Most resorts take up their own island (1500 x 1500m to 250 x 250m), meaning that the ratio of beach to guests must be one of the best in the world and it is hard to imagine that you would ever have to struggle to find your own private piece of beach to relax on. Many have a "no shoes" policy and with such soft sands, it is easy to love this idea.

The range and themes or the resorts are impressive, and most people will find one they like. They can be grouped into three types:

Dive resorts, designed primarily for divers. Geared expressly for people who want to spend most of their time underwater, facilities on land are limited, but the house reef is usually excellent. Often found in the more far-flung parts of the archipelago.

Holiday resorts, designed primarily for families. These are large and have a full complement of facilities (several restaurants, day-care centres, etc.), but don't have the over-the-top luxury and have less privacy. Most of these are located on Kaafu, with easy access from Malé City.

Luxury resorts, designed primarily for honeymooners and the jet set. The place to be if you want designer furniture, gourmet food and a plasma TV in an overwater villa reachable only by rowboat, and are willing to pay high prices for the privilege.

A Maldivian classic is the overwater bungalow, built on stilts directly above a lagoon. While these look fabulous and sound appealing, they have their downsides:

They're usually packed tightly together, often sharing a wall, meaning little privacy.

Especially at low tide, the water level may be too low to allow swimming or snorkelling.

Resort facilities may be a fair distance from the bungalows.

The lapping of waves is romantic enough on a calm day but can make it next to impossible to sleep if a storm blows through.

These factors vary from resort to resort, so research carefully. A good one is definitely worth trying at least once, but many Maldives repeaters prefer a bungalow with a private beach.

When considering where to go, factor in transport time and costs from the airport: the more far-flung resorts generally require an expensive seaplane transfer and you may have to stay overnight at the airport on the way. On the upside, the further away you are from Malé, the more peaceful the islands and the better the diving.

Many resorts, especially the smaller dive-oriented ones, cater largely to a single nationality, leading to "Italian" resorts, "Dutch" resorts, "German" resorts, etc. While almost all welcome any nationality and have some English-speaking staff on hand, you may be cut off from any evening entertainment and have problems e.g. diving if you don't speak the local lingo.

There are guesthouses on inhabited islands, and Maafushi island is popular with looking for hassle-free accommodation of this type. Low-end prices are €25-35 per night.

Examples include: Equator Village on Addu Atoll, a former British Royal Air Force base converted to a 78-room hotel. The cost is around US$100-150 per person per day all-inclusive (including some alcohol). Another unique location is Keyodhoo Guest House, this guest house is on top of a recreation centre built by an Australian after the tsunami (US$20 pp/per night). Most visitors are scuba divers or adventure travellers. Other Inns/B&B can also be found on Vaavu Atoll, Dhaalu Atoll, Kaafu Atoll, North/South Malé Atoll and Ari Atoll Hangnaameedhoo. Only a few of these inns and B&Bs have their own pool. Confirm if bikinis are allowed on the beach. The distance between the inns and beaches are usually short, but visitors should still dress appropriately to Maldive customs.

More independent-minded travellers and those looking for cultural experience may consider renting rooms in villages. This will require either walking through the village and asking around if you're particularly confident of your social skills or inquiring in Malé City whether someone can put you in contact with their friends or relatives on a remote island for such an informal homestay. Prices can be as low as €15 per night for a clean functional room.

Dial 911 for police, ambulance, fire and rescue, coast guard and (+960) 3322211 for flight information.