Malawi

Compared to its neighbours, the main roads in Malawi are in surprisingly good shape and travel times between major destinations should be reasonable. The volume of traffic is low and most people drive reasonably slowly. Road travel after dark is not advisable as road markings are poor to non-existent and not all cars have headlights. While there are few vehicles travelling at night a very significant number of their drivers will be heavily intoxicated, particularly outside of Lilongwe and Blantyre.

The Malawian police force have roadblocks, checkpoints and speeding checks along many of the major roadways and at the airports. By and large, they are looking for illegal activities and bribes. Expect to be stopped on occasion, particularly if you are clearly not local, and asked where you are going. Fines for traffic offences range from 2,000 MK for poor tyres or faulty lighting, to 8000 MK for speeding, to seizure of the vehicle for licensing/registration/insurance offences. Payment is expected to be made to a bursar at the roadside, and a numbered receipt from a duplicate book should be given. If a passenger in a vehicle being driven by a local the police may question the driver or other passengers in a local dialect in order to establish what can be got from you. You should not have any problems if you are polite and have the correct documentation (passport, driver's licence, permission to use the vehicle, etc.) available if they ask. Before using any vehicle be satisfied that all tyres are in good condition, lights are working (including brake lights) and that you have a road warning triangle and fire extinguisher. Do not leave quantities of food or beverages, toys, etc visible in the vehicle as they will be sought in exchange for passage. Allow extra time for journeys to the airport as the police are aware that people in a rush will pay. Speed checks are often carried out on the roads away from major towns (i.e. at the points where the speed limit is due to increase), and urban speed limits can extend well into rural areas, often for 10-12km outside of major towns.

The wearing of seatbelts is mandatory. Local laws dictate that passengers may not have any limb hanging from a vehicle. Despite many local pick-ups having extra passengers in the cargo area visitors should not do so unless the vehicle has the appropriate additional government documentation allowing same.

Malawi experiences fuel shortages, so stock up in neighbouring countries unless you want to queue for a long time (without actually getting anything) or use the black market - with fuel prices being almost double, even triple, usual prices. If staying in the one area for some time attempt to build a relationship with the forecourt staff in one establishment, but be seen to occasionally purchase small amounts from other outlets. Often staff will give preferential treatment to regular customers in times of shortage.

In rural areas be vigilant of children playing and animals, particularly chickens on the road. While small animals may not damage the vehicle they may cause a family to lose a source of income or nutrition and create a very hostile situation when a demand for payment is made.

The only official language of Malawi is English. There is no official declared national language of the country, but instead, there are regional languages that are used widely which are Chichewa and Chitumbuka. English is widely spoken in urban areas and by the well-educated upper class, though outside of that, a few words in Chichewa and Chitumbuka will go a long way. Chichewa and Chitumbuka are the first languages of the majority of the population, and knowing both the languages will get you by in most of Malawi though in some very remote areas, learning the local tongue might be essential. Locals always appreciate any attempts by foreigners to speak Chichewa and Chitumbuka, and learning at least a few basic greetings would do well to ingratiate yourself to the locals. Chitumbuka is the first and second language for many people in the north of the country as well as central region of the country. Chiyao is spoken by the Yao people who live mostly in the Mangochi District. A multi-cultural country, Malawi has over a dozen indigenous ethnic groups, each with its own distinct language. However, even in those areas, many younger people will be multilingual in the local language with Chichewa and Chitumbuka.

Malawi has a massive diversity of beautiful landscapes. The highest peaks in Malawi touch 10,000 ft (3,000 m) while the lowest point is barely above sea level. This range of altitudes in a small area help to make the landscape of Malawi one of the most varied in all Africa. It is generally a green, lush country, with plateaux, highlands, forests, mountains, plains, escarpments and dramatic river valleys.

The Rift Valley is the dominant feature, providing the vast chasm that Lake Malawi fills, and extending to the south of the country following the Shire River that drains the Lake. The flatter areas of the Rift Valley in South Malawi are home to some important wetlands, including Elephant Marsh, down in the Lower Shire Valley.

To the west of the Lake and either side of the Shire Valley in the south is the Central African Plateau. The transition from Rift Valley floor up to the Central African Plateau is characterised by a series of dramatic escarpments, such as at Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, a protected area of rugged, unspoilt wilderness. The Central African Plateau itself is gently undulating land between 1,600ft (490m) and 5,000ft (1,500m), with the occasional lake (such as Lake Chilwa) and punctuated by more dramatic hills and forests.

It is the widespread highlands and forests that provide the most impressive of the Malawi's varied scenery. Up where the air is fresh and cool are clear mountain streams, heaths, rolling montane grassland and evergreen forests.

The southern part of Malawi has the best known highlands - Mulanje Massif and Zomba Plateau. The former is a massive wilderness plateau of syenite granite rising from the Phalombe Plains. It has a number of peaks, including the highest in both the country and the whole of central Africa: Sapitwa, at 3,000 m (10,000 ft). The tea estates that stretch west of Mulanje as far as Thyolo, are also wonderfully scenic. Zomba Plateau is not as high as Mulanje, but nonetheless impressive. It is slab-like with a gently undulating plateau top which is accessible by road.

The Dedza-Kirk Highlands extend the rise from the Rift Valley on its western edge between Blantyre and Lilongwe. The northern part of these highlands is marked by the Dedza-Salima Forest Reserve and then the Thuma Forest Reserve. South-west of Lilongwe, the Dzalanyama Forest Reserve covers a range of hills at the border with Mozambique. The Dowa Highlands, north of Lilongwe, have their most notable peaks at Dowa and the Ntchisi Forest Reserve.

The Viphya Highlands - undulating hills swathed in evergreen forests - stretch north-south in north Malawi and reach the edge of the Rift Valley. Finally, in north Malawi is the Nyika Plateau, a rolling whaleback grassland plateau unique in Africa. Much of this highest and most extensive high plateau surface in central Africa is gazetted as the Nyika National Park.

For a small country, Malawi has a quite remarkable array of activities to offer visitors. The magnificent Lake Malawi is a haven for boat activities and watersports, as well as having some of the best freshwater diving sites in the world, right in Nkhata Bay. Eight land-based national parks and wildlife reserves offer all type of safaris in a wide variety of natural wilderness environments. Liwonde National Park, along the Shire River, has hippos (including an albino one!), crocodiles, lions, elephants and even leopards (apparently). The mixed terrain and varied landscapes also provide for excellent outdoor activities, including trekking and mountain biking, particularly in the highland areas. Those seeking cultural experiences are also well served by sites of historical interest and simple village visits to meet the ever-smiling Malawians in their daily life. You can visit the Carlsberg factory in Blantyre, climb Mount Mulanje (a series of high hills, mountains - making a good trek), drive up or climb Zomba Plateau, go horseback riding in Kande or Nyika, or just relax on the beaches of Cape Maclear.

Specialist tours/activities include yoga holidays, tea factory tours and art safaris. Pottery classes are available at two centres in Dedza and Nkhotakota. In the summer months of Malawi (September/October) there is the Lake of Stars international music festival on the beaches of Sunbird Nkopola Lodge in Mangochi. This is a good festival, where you can relax in the sun on the beach having a few drinks and listening to some good music. Camping is the prominent form of accommodation, however many people do chose to stay in Sunbird Nkopola rooms themselves, or in rooms or cottages of nearby lodges.

Traditional Malawian food revolves around one staple, maize, served in one form, nsima/sima (n'SEE-ma/SEE-ma). Nsima/Sima is basically a type of thick porridge, rolled into balls with your right hand and dipped into a variety of stews known as relishes. Those who can afford them eat relishes of beef, chicken or fish, but the many who can't make do with beans, tiny dried fish (usipa), pumpkin leaves (chibwabwa) and other vegetables. At breakfast, nsima/sima can be served watered down into a soup, maybe with a little sugar. Local restaurants will serve nsima/sima and relish for less than MK600.

Food options in the major cities of Lilongwe, Mzuzu and Blantyre are good. Fast food — to include burgers, pizza, and fried chicken — is very popular in Malawi. For sit-down meals, ethnic eateries (thanks to a significant ex-pat population) are popular. In many restaurants, pork products are not served to accommodate the Muslim population.

Outside the larger cities, however, you might be a little underwhelmed with food options. Along the major roadways, you will find "tuck shops" featuring packaged cookies or Take Away Meals — meat pies or sausage rolls, for instance — which may or may not satisfy you.

Finally, in terms of hygiene outside the major cities, you are unlikely to find a proper washroom with running water. You will probably be given a bowl of water, a piece of soap, and a (damp) towel. Therefore, some travellers bring small bottles of anti-bacterial hand soap with them.

Western-standard hotels can be found in Blantyre, Lilongwe, Zomba and Mzuzu, as well as along the shores of Lake Malawi. The Lake Malawi resort hotels cater primarily to international tourists.

There are Backpacker Hostels in many places in Malawi with dorm beds from US$10 per person.

There are high-level five-star resort hotels in some rural areas charging western prices.

Malawi's largest tertiary education structure is the University of Malawi which is made up of Chancellor College in Zomba, Mzuzu University in Mzuzu, Blantyre Polytechnic in Chichiri, College of Medicine, Bunda College of Agriculture and Kamuzu College of Nursing in Lilongwe.

Malawi has been known for years as "The Warm Heart of Africa", and Malawians are known for their friendliness and hospitality. Malawi is not known as a particularly dangerous travel destination for western tourists and expatriates. Muggings and robberies have occurred in the larger cities, most especially Lilongwe, as well as in some notorious places along the main tourist routes. It is advisable to avoid walking alone at night. If you go out for the evening, make sure you know how you're going back home. Car-jackings happen occasionally so be sure to keep windows shut and doors locked during evening and night journeys (though night driving is not advised - most cars have broken headlights and Malawians tend to walk in the middle of the road at night) and exercise reasonable caution you would anywhere. Roads are less safe because many drivers are unlicensed and inexperienced and many vehicles are not inspection-ready; there is also the factor of drunk driving, especially in the evenings, so be cautious. However even half the taxi drivers you will get at night will be drunk.

There are a lot of pickpockets operating in nightclubs and bars. Just exercise caution, don't bring too much money and cameras, etc.so don't bring hordes of cash with you.

Homosexuality is prohibited by the law, and LGBT couples should exercise discretion when travelling to Malawi. It took a presidential pardon to release a gay couple who were arrested for homosexuality and sentenced to 14 years of hard labour.

Swimming in water bodies can be dangerous for crocodiles and hippos.

As with its neighbouring countries malaria can be a problem. The lake is freshwater and is prone to bilharzia, especially in the Cape Maclear area. Symptoms of bilharzia can take months to surface. If you think you've been exposed to it you can get a very cheap pill from the local pharmacists that will kill it before it even shows its face. It's a good idea to take care of this before leaving Malawi, as it will be much more expensive back home.

The adult HIV prevalence in the country is at 14% or 1 in 7 adults. Do not have unprotected sex. Do not use injecting drugs.

Tap water in major cities like Lilongwe, Blantyre, Zomba and Mzuzu is generally safe. Ask at the lodge/house you're at. Travellers with weaker stomachs should avoid this drinking water. Bottled water is plentiful in all the major shops.

Dogs, cats and other animals can spread rabies.

Malawi has both patriarchal and matriarchal ethnicities and cultures. In the cities, men tend to be more respected than women, but the reverse might be true in the rural villages depending on ethnicity. Whites tend to be well-respected, a holdover from colonial times, but this is largely a Malawian's way of being courteous. Accept their hospitality. They are an exceptionally friendly people.

Malawians, especially those from very rural areas where they don't see many whites, can be quite curious when they do come upon a white traveller. To a Western mindset, this might be interpreted as unnecessarily staring at you or talking about you in front of you. Be prepared to be greeted by kids yelling mzungu, mzungu! and to answer lots of questions about yourself. Even relatively mundane items like mechanical pencils can draw a crowd of onlookers.

Malawians are in general extremely courteous, and a part of that courtesy is shaking hands, speaking softly, and referring to travellers and others with respect. Malawians avoid rudeness. It is common for Malawi men to hold hands when they've gathered together to chat, and this shouldn't be given a sexual interpretation when it is encountered.

Culturally, women should not wear shorts or mini-skirts, especially when travelling outside the lodge or camp. A woman in shorts or a short skirt is considered to be provocative, as well as rude. Many female visitors wear wraps that are available in the stores and markets of major cities. These are generally made of bright, colored patterns and can be extremely attractive. Low-cut tops on women, while discouraged, are not nearly as provocative. Men in the cities tend to wear slacks and not shorts, as shorts are generally worn only by school-age children, so when a man wears shorts it can be viewed by Malawians as rather silly.

Finally, when meeting a Malawian — even to ask a question — you should always say hello and ask how they are. Properly greeting a Malawian is very important. They are uncomfortable with the Western notion of simply "getting to the point." Courtesy is a must, at all times, because not to be courteous is to show disrespect.

Tanzania

South Luangwa National Park — Kiboko Camp and some other travel agencies run roundtrip safaris from Lilongwe to this fantastic national park in Zambia.

Mozambique