San Francisco/Civic Center-Tenderloin

The Civic Center is on Van Ness Ave, north of its intersection with Market St. The city began developing the area in 1913, and most of the buildings there are of a "Classical Style", with their development being heavily influenced by the "City Beautiful Movement". Most of the city's integral governmental institutions are located here; like City Hall which dominates the Civic Center with its impressive "Beaux-Arts" style dome. There are two main plazas in the area; Civic Center Plaza and United Nations Plaza. The Civic Center Plaza (in front of City Hall) has been a popular place for holding rallies, protests, and festivals. As well as being a hub for city government, the area is also a serious cultural center. "Culture vultures" flock here at night to see performances of the San Francsico opera, symphony, and ballet, as well as to attend theater, galas, concerts, plays, and special events. During the day you can get your "culture fix" by visiting one of the many excellent museums and galleries such as the Asian Art Museum, San Francisco Performing Arts Library and Museum, and the San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery. There are also several other smaller private galleries in the area.

Architecture aficionados will be happy to know that some of the most beautiful buildings in the city are cloistered within a few square blocks here. Examples include the War Memorial Opera House, the Asian Art Museum, the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, and the War Memorial Veterans building with the Herbst Theater (where the United Nations charter was signed in 1945).

There is also a popular farmers market held twice weekly in United Nations Plaza.

Many guidebooks will tell you to avoid a large part of downtown — the Tenderloin. It's true that this "bad neighborhood" is rife with panhandlers, drug pushers, adult bookstores, and massage parlors, but it's also full of good, cheap ethnic restaurants and colorful dive bars. The 'Loin is probably the last area of downtown to experience real gentrification, a process that seems to be taking its time, but the early signs are already here. Culture vultures will find several cutting edge, alternative/experimental theaters and high-culture galleries, which are attracted by the neighborhood's low rents and proximity to downtown. Sleek lounges and trendy clubs are also increasingly making a home in this eclectic neighborhood, side by side with the traditional dive bars it has always been known for.

The Tenderloin's name is of uncertain origin. A popular narrative comes from the overall shape of the area's boundaries: triangular, like the cross-section of a tenderloin steak. According to a different explanation the area was originally called "The Tenderloin" by the police officers, since they were rewarded with hazard pay for working there. There are many different ways to define its boundaries; the official and original three corners (making a Tenderloin shape) may be delineated by Market St and Larkin St to the south, Geary St and Larkin St to the northwest, and Market St by Geary St to the northeast. Today the area would be more better defined between Polk St, Sutter St, Mason St, Market St, and Golden Gate Ave. But, these borders are blurry as well, since the urban decay of the district seems to expand and contract depending from month to month.

Although it has a reputation as one of the tougher parts of town, in reality the Tenderloin is quite variegated and can change drastically from block to block. There are many different sub-neighborhoods within the 'Loin. Much of the area on the east side of Mason St (above O'Farrell St) is high-rent and more properly considered part of downtown Union Square. The western area around Hyde and Larkin Sts, from Turk St to O'Farrell St, is a historically colorful Vietnamese neighborhood known as "Little Saigon."

Geary St, Post St, and Sutter St, especially the blocks west of Jones St, are part of the so-called "Tendernob", "Lower Nob Hill", or "Tenderloin Heights" bordering Nob Hill; sometimes this definition also includes southern Nob Hill as far north as California St or Sacramento St (especially the western blocks around Polk St). However, generally, these areas are basically just part of the TL, and mostly just exist as marketing terms for people who want to pretend that they don't live in the TL. The Tendernob (at least on the 'Loin side) is considered a nightlife hotspot by some folks who like their drinking milieu a bit rough around the edges. It connects with Polk St on the western edge of the Tenderloin. Known variously as "Polk Gulch", "Polk Village", or the "Outer Tenderloin", this very lively area of Polk St, from Geary St to Union St, is populated with all types of restaurants, cafes, bars, venues, bookstores, and other shops. Finally, an area bordered by O'Farrell, Geary, Leavenworth, and Taylor Sts, is sometimes called the "Tandoor-loin" because of the high concentration of excellent and affordable Indian restaurants.

Directions for driving to the Civic Center are marked on the freeways. Once inside the City limits, two main arteries serve the area — Van Ness Ave and Market St.

There are several garages, such as the Performing Arts Garage at Grove St and Gough St, an underground garage under the Civic Center Plaza (entrance on McAllister St), open from 6AM to midnight, or 24-hour valet parking at Opera Plaza on Turk St just off Van Ness Ave. Where the freeway was prior to 1989 earthquake (between Grove St at Gough St and Turk St at Franklin St) there are several smaller open air lots, which will charge about $10 for all day or $6 for an evening. Those lots are gradually being displaced by new construction. Street parking in the Tenderloin is extremely difficult to find, but parking garages are plentiful.

The neighborhood is well-served by public transit, provided by MUNI in the form of the Metro system, the F-Line streetcar and various bus lines. All of the MUNI Metro lines ( J K L M N T ) serve the Powell/Market and Civic Center/United Nations Plaza stations under Market St along with the BART line. The MUNI Metro also serves the Van Ness/Market station, which is part of the same subway tunnel but is not shared with BART.

The historic F streetcar line runs on Market St between Castro St and the Ferry Building (where it turns north on The Embarcadero to Fisherman's Wharf), passing by both the Civic Center and the Tenderloin.

From the Caltrain station the 47-Van Ness bus takes you to along the western border of the area (Van Ness Ave) to City Hall. Other frequent MUNI bus lines serving the area are: 49-Mission/Van Ness, 9-San Bruno, 31-Balboa, 5-Fulton, 19-Polk, 21-Hayes and 38-Geary.

BART runs under Market St with two stops in the area; both the Powell/Market and Civic Center/United Nations Plaza. Both BART stations will put you well within walking distance of any Tenderloin attraction; the latter is the most convenient BART stop for the Civic Center.

One or other of two cable car lines — either the Powell/Mason cable car line or the Powell/Hyde cable car line — can take you from Fisherman's Wharf, Chinatown, Nob Hill, or Russian Hill to the intersection of Market St and Powell St in Union Square — near the Powell/Market BART and Muni station. From here it's just one block to the Tenderloin.

Given that the area is centrally located downtown, it is extremely accessible on foot. From the SoMa area walk northbound on anywhere from Fifth St to 11th St. Market St forms its broad southern boundary and makes the area easily accessible from either the east (Union Square-Financial District) or west (The Castro), and from the north (Nob Hill-Russian Hill) it's just a 10-20 minute walk directly due south.

2 Asian Art Museum, 200 Larkin St (between McAllister St and Fulton St), ☏ +1 415-581-3500, fax: +1 415-581-4700, pr@asianart.org. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM (with extended evening hours every Th until 9PM); closed New Year's Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day. Built in 1917 as the city's public library building, this building is a fantastic blend of "Beaux Arts" and modern design elements. It was designed by renowned architect Gae Aulenti (architect of the Musée d'Orsay, Paris). Inside, you'll find many interesting architectural details including the grand staircase, loggia, vaulted ceilings, the great hall, stone floors, period light fixtures, an oddly interminable escalator, and inscriptions. The museum is one of the largest and newest museums of Oriental art. It has circa 15,000 artifacts covering 6,000 years of Asian history. The Asian Art Museum hosts many special exhibits as well. The cafe on premises also has some decent food, though pricier and somewhat more tame than better places a short walk away. Free first Sunday of every month, $15 adults, $10 seniors/students/youth ages 13-17, free for children 12 and under/military/SFUSD students. Th evenings at a reduced rate ($10) after 5PM. Special exhibitions cost extra. (updated Apr 2015)

3 John Pence Gallery, 750 Post St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☏ +1 415-441-1138, fax: +1 415-441-1178, art@johnpence.com. M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-5PM. This 8,000 ft² (740 m2) gallery exhibits art of the realism movement (particularly academic realism) as well as "Beat Generation" art works. Free.

4 San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery, War Memorial Veterans Building, 401 Van Ness Ave (at McAllister St), ☏ +1 415-252-2217, fax: +1 415-554-6093, Cece.Carpio@sfgov.org. The Gallery at 401 Van Ness: W-Sa noon-5PM, Cafe Valor: M-F 7:30AM-4PM, Art at City Hall: M-F 8AM-8PM. The San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery supports a diverse range of Bay Area "Visual Art" culture by supporting artists projects through collaboration with community organizations, commissioning contemporary art, and curated exhibitions. They also have display art in Cafe Valor in the Veterans Building lobby, as well as in City Hall. Free. (updated Sep 2020)

5 Tenderloin Museum, 398 Eddy St (at Leavenworth St), ☏ +1 415-830-4640, info@tenderloinmuseum.org. W-Su 11AM-5PM; walking tours daily 11AM, 1PM, 3PM (no 11AM tour on Su). A small museum dedicated to the history of the Tenderloin, with exhibits on the neighborhood's cultural history. Guided walking tours of the neighborhood are also available. $10 adults, $6 students/seniors/youth, free children 12 and under; walking tours $10, or $5 extra with museum admission. (updated Oct 2020)

6 Civic Center Plaza (between Polk St and McAllister St). This grassy plaza is at the heart of the Civic Center and its tree-lined central avenue visually draws the eye to the imposing structure of City Hall. Protests and demonstrations of all political persuasions are frequently staged here. There is a parking lot underneath the plaza, which used to actually be a subterranean convention center that held some of the earliest Apple events back in the 1980s. (updated Feb 2026)

7 James Lick (Pioneer) Monument (behind the Main Library branch, next to the Asian Art Museum). The monument is a tribute to California and its early pioneers like Sir Francis Drake. Atop sits a bear and a man carrying both spear and shied — all three objects are imagery that represent California.

8 Large Four Piece Reclining Figure, 201 Van Ness Ave. This bronze sculpture was created by English artist Henry Moore in 1973. It poses happily outside Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall.

9 Sgt. John Macaulay Park (Larkin St and O'Farrell St). Named in honor of a police sergeant who died on duty, this vibrantly colored park and playground only allows adults in if they are accompanied by kids. It has become a bit of an urban oasis set amidst the grittiness of the Tenderloin. (updated May 2020)

10 United Nations Plaza (at Market St and Hyde St). The UN Charter was signed in the Civic Center in 1945, and this plaza was constructed in honor of its ideology and is ironically over the site of the original San Francisco City Cemetery. Designed by architect Lawrence Halprin, and completed in 1975, this is a three acre red-bricked pedestrian plaza. Brick columns inscribed with UN members country names line the plaza, and the UN Fountain sits at its center. Intended to be a visual gateway to the Civic Center, it is often habituated by the city's homeless, but has a compact and diverse Farmers' Market on Wednesdays and Sundays. (updated Dec 2021)

The Civic Center with its "classical" architecture was declared a national landmark in 1978. It has several buildings that are of architectural interest including the Asian Art Museum, listed under Museums and galleries above, as well as the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, the buildings that comprise the San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center (SFWMPAC), the Orpheum Theater, Golden Gate Theater, the Curran Theater, and the interior of the Great American Music Hall, which are all listed under Performing arts below. Other architectural points of interest include:

11 Alcazar Theater, 650 Geary St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☏ +1 415-606-7121, alcazartheatre@aol.com. By appt only, and for events. Built in 1917 in honor of the Shriners (Ancient Arabic Order of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine); this Byzantine-style Islamic temple (now a 500 seat theater showing Broadway and off-Broadway shows), is now a historical city landmark. It also houses a contemporary art gallery. The architect was T Patterson Ross. Free. (updated Dec 2021)

12 City Hall, 1 Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Pl (between Van Ness Ave, McAllister St, Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place, and Grove St), ☏ +1 415-554-4933, fax: +1 415-554-4936, City.Hall.Building.Management@sfgov.org. Brochures are available for visitors to take a self-guided tour: M-F 8AM-8PM. Docent led tours: M–F 10AM, noon, 2PM. Designed by Arthur Brown Jr., and opened in 1915, the architecture of the building was heavily influenced by the "City Beautiful Movement," which in turn reflected the American Renaissance style of the time. Its "Beaux-Arts" dome (the fifth largest in the world) was modeled after that of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, Italy. The building itself is huge, 393 feet long, by 273 feet wide, and 307 feet high — occupying a full two blocks of San Francisco's downtown real estate. It is considered by many admirers to be the most impressive building in the city. Inside, it features a large rotunda with a grandiose staircase leading up to the second floor. The walls are adorned with oak paneling and the ceilings with crystal chandeliers. City Hall is the site of much history — In 1954 Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe wed here. In 1978, Mayor George Moscone and Supervisor Harvey Milk were assassinated here by their coworker Dan White, who snuck a gun through a window. And, it was here that in 2004, Mayor Newsom unilaterally declared the legality of gay marriage, before being thwarted by state and federal power. Tours: Self guided and docent led tours are free unless you're a private group of eight or more persons. (updated Feb 2026)

The Civic Center is the center of opera, ballet, symphony, and theater in the city. Even if one hasn't bought a ticket in advance, there are often returned tickets available at the box offices before a performance. Make a night of it when you are here; take a walk around the Civic Center, enjoy the architecture, sit for dinner, or just have a cappuccino in one of the cafes before the overture.

3 The Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, 99 Grove St (between Polk St and Larkin St), ☏ +1 415-974-4060, fax: +1 415-974-4073, contact@anotherplanetent.com. The auditorium is not open to visitors or for tours, but only during event times which vary. This four-story tall, "Beaux-Arts" style building occupies an entire city block in the heart of the Civic Center and has 7,000 seats inside. Large and small bands, exhibits, concerts, and galas are all hosted at the Civic Auditorium. Check Ticketmaster to see what's playing. Price varies depending on act. (updated May 2020)

4 CounterPULSE Theater, 80 Turk St (at Taylor), ☏ +1 415-626-2060. This hybrid theater is a hub for experimental art and activism. Online calendar boasts new and eclectic events year-round.

5 Great American Music Hall, 859 O'Farrell St (between Larkin St and Polk St), ☏ +1 415-885-0750, fax: +1 415-885-5075, info@gamh.com. Shows: hours vary; Box office: M-F 10:30AM-6PM, show nights 10:30AM-9PM, closed Sa-Su (except during shows - opens 1 hour before show time). Reputed to be the city's oldest nightclub, this ornate 600 capacity music venue presents hip music acts, some well-known among the cognoscenti, some so cutting edge that there's blood on the pavement. In the 1930s, this was fan-dancer Sally Rand's "Music Box." The interior, which was designed by a French architect, is known for its ornate balconies and columns. Ticket prices vary by act but typically run from $10-30.

6 The New Conservatory Theatre Center, 25 Van Ness Ave (half a block from Market St and the Van Ness MUNI station), ☏ +1 415-861-8972, boxoffice@nctcsf.org. Box office hours: W-Sa 1:30PM-7PM, Su-Tu noon-3PM; show times: Performances are typically W-Sa 8PM, Su 2PM, year round. The three small New Conservatory theaters present novel, musical, comic, and educational plays. Tickets generally cost $18-40.

7 San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center, 401 Van Ness Ave, Room 110 (between Grove St and McAllister St), ☏ +1 415-621-6600, fax: +1 415-621-5091, info@sfwmpac.org. Tour hours: M 10AM-2PM — on the hour. This 7.5 acre complex comprises the War Memorial Opera House, Memorial Court, the War Memorial Veterans Building (including Herbst Theatre and the Green Room, which is a classically styled reception hall), the Harold L. Zellerbach Rehearsal Hall, and Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall. The opera house and the veterans buildings (which are for the most part identical), along with the court, were intended to be appreciated in unison, and to complement the surrounding architecture of the Civic Center. Their "Beaux-Arts" structures employ the Roman Doric Order and were designed by architect Arthur Brown, Jr. Both buildings were completed in 1932. Guided tours of the buildings are available. Free.

Black and White Ball, Civic Center Plaza, ☏ +1 415-864-6000. Takes place once every two years in May. If you have the budget, why not "hob-nob" at San Francisco's classiest party? Taking up four entire blocks of the Civic Center, this ball attracts a well-heeled crowd, as well as those who are just splurging. The ball began in 1956 and features several high profile bands (the Grateful Dead played here in 1969), and includes a performance by the San Francisco Symphony orchestra. $200 gets you in the door, feeds you, and lets you enjoy the music, dancing, and entertainment. If you want to formally dine at the Patrons Dinner, you'll have to shell out a lot more. $200-3,000.

Fringe Festival, 156 Eddy St (between Taylor St and Mason St), mail@sffringe.org. 12 Days, beginning the Wednesday after Labor Day. See website for exact performance hours. This bohemian 10 day festival is all about theatrical experimentation and having fun... even if you don't know what you're doing exactly. Chaos rules here; even the list of performers are selected randomly at the last minute and participants are effectively given "carte blanche" to be as artistically free as possible. This leads to a lot of wackiness and of course a healthy dose of good old nudity! It takes place in several theaters but it is run by the EXIT Theater in the Tenderloin. $7-8 per performance, Frequent Fringer Pass (all 10 Days): $55.

San Francisco Pride Festival (All streets between Van Ness Ave, Market St, Golden Gate Ave, and Hayes St), ☏ +1 415-864-3733, fax: +1 415-864-5889, info@sfpride.org. Final full weekend in June: Sa noon-6PM, Su noon-7PM. Known as "San Francisco Pride" for short, it's one of the largest gay pride festivals in North America, a huge, happy, chaotic celebration of diversity, politics, sexuality, and San Francisco wackiness. The two day festival grew up around the parade (below) which takes place on Sunday. Some seven city blocks between City Hall and Market St are closed to vehicles, and about a dozen stages and spaces offer everything from square dancing to hip-hop, from a family garden to Leather Alley. Hundreds of businesses, community groups, non-profits, and political groups attempt to connect with hundreds of thousands of celebrants. It's a movement, it's a market, and it's a party. Car and bus traffic is interrupted during the celebration, and parking is even worse than usual; take BART or Muni trains (which run underground, and put on extra cars to carry the load) instead. Both parade and celebration are for everyone — straight as well as gay are welcome. Free (donations encouraged).

1 Ananda Fuara, 1298 Market St (at Larkin St), ☏ +1 415-621-1994, fax: +1 415-934-1923. M-Tu, Th-Sa 8AM-8PM, W 8AM-3PM. This vegetarian restaurant is a little different as it's run by an Indian religious order called 'Sri Chinmoy'. Ananda Fuara means the "Fountain of Delight" and their food is intended to harmonize you both inside and out. $6-11.

2 Chutney, 511 Jones St (at O'Farrell St), ☏ +1 415-931-5541. Noon-midnight daily. Affordable and excellent selection of authentic Indian food. Speedy service and filling portions, and free Chai tea for all customers. A recent addition and a neighborhood favorite. $5-8.

3 Joey's Laundry, 517 O'Farrell St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☏ +1 415-567-4401. 6AM-9PM daily. What is a laundry doing under 'Eat'? Joey's serves Mitchell's Ice Cream, widely recognized as the best in the Bay Area. If you're bored with chocolate, strawberry, and vanilla, try the green tea or macapuno ice creams. For the launderer seeking more solid sustenance — or if you get hungry while using their internet access ($7.50 per hour) — there are breakfast pastries, pizza slices, and coffee. $4-10.

4 Moulin Rouge Breakfast Cafe, 887 Geary St (Larkin St), ☏ +1 415-928-0158. M-Sa 7AM-2PM, Su 7:30AM-2PM. If you can't stomach the line (or the hipster clientele) at Dottie's, the Moulin Rouge Breakfast Cafe around the corner on Geary offers solid grub at much cheaper prices. The elderly couple who run the place are always friendly and never hurry you, and the shabby faux-French decor is weirdly charming despite liberal amounts of duct tape holding the place together. $3-7.

5 The Olympic Cafe, 555 Geary St (between Taylor St and Jones St), ☏ +1 415-729-3530. 7AM-2PM daily. Spacious, affordable and home-cooked breakfast joint. Excellent omelettes. This is a viable alternative of Dottie's True Blue Cafe which almost always seems to have a line. $4.50-8.50. (updated Oct 2020)

6 Pakwan, 501 O'Farrell St (at Jones St), ☏ +1 415-255-2440. 11AM-11PM daily. Pakistani food featuring curries, tandoori fish, and piping hot naan. Unlike some of the local eateries in the "tandoor-loin," the seating is clean, comfortable, and fairly new (possibly the results of some other restaurant's going-out-of-business sale). The restaurant tends to be comparatively quiet, as well as offering an excellent view of police actions on Jones St. $6-10.

7 Shalimar, 532 Jones St (between O'Farrell St and Geary St), ☏ +1 415-928-0333, hammadje@aol.com. Noon-midnight daily. Northern Indian/Pakistani food, they have a tandoor (clay oven) which means excellent naan (flat breads) and murgh boti (barbecue chicken). The curries and rice pilaf are also worth checking out for their unique combination of spices. $3-10.

10 Bodega Bistro, 607 Larkin St (at Eddy St), ☏ +1 415-921-1218, fax: +1 415-921-1216. Lunch: 11AM-3PM daily, Dinner: Su-W 5PM-9:30PM, Th-Sa 5PM-10PM. In Vietnamese Bo-de-ga in Vietnamese means beef-lamb-chicken — all popular Vietnamese dishes. The menu also draws equal inspiration from French cuisine making this an unusual dining experience. $8-23.

11 The Douglas Room, 345 Taylor Street (Between O'Farrell and Ellis Streets, inside the Tilden Hotel), ☏ +1 415-673-2332. Restaurant with well-stocked bar and simple pub fare. Italian Hoagie on the menu strives for authenticity -- the Douglas Room insists on importing Amoroso Rolls from Philadelphia for their hoagie. (updated Apr 2017)

12 Kim Thanh, 607 Geary St (at Jones St), ☏ +1 415-928-6627, fax: +1 415-928-7821. M-F 11AM-11PM, Sa-Su 5PM-11PM. Check out the aquariums in the window if you want to know what's for dinner. If you've never seen a geoduck, you will not soon forget it. $7-12.

13 Grand Cafe, 501 Geary St (at Taylor St), ☏ +1 415-292-0101, fax: +1 415-292-0150, frank.micalizzi@grandcafe-sf.com. Breakfast: M-F 7AM-10:30AM; Brunch: Sa-Su 8AM-2:30PM; Lunch: M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM; Dinner: Su-Th 5PM-10PM, F-Sa 5PM-11PM. With 30-foot high ceilings supported by pillars, sunken tables, sculptures, and artwork adorning the walls, it's not hard to see that this place was once an elegant ballroom. Today it's an elegant dining room where they serve excellent French cuisine. $30-100.

14 Max's Opera Cafe, 601 Van Ness Ave (Golden Gate Ave - in Opera Plaza), ☏ +1 415-771-7300, fax: +1 415-474-9780, MaxsOperaSF@maxsworld.com. Su-Tu 11:30AM-10PM, W-Th 11:30AM-11PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-11:30PM. The California version of a New York deli. Dinner $15-25.

15 Millennium Restaurant, 580 Geary St (at Jones St), ☏ +1 415-345-3900, fax: +1 415-345-3941. Su-Th 5:30PM-9:30PM, F-Sa 5:30PM-10PM. This is an environmentally friendly vegetarian/vegan restaurant that does its best to source local, organic and non-genetically modified food.The food is delicious — very pricey — but delicious. $30-75.

1 Blur, 1121 Polk St (at Hemlock St), ☏ +1 415-567-1918, info@blursf.com. 4PM-2PM daily. Upscale, lush, candlelit bar in the Polk Gulch. It's dark and romantic and they have a good selection of cocktails... try the strawberry margarita. They also have free pizza on Monday nights.

2 Bourbon and Branch, 501 Jones St (O'Farrell St), ☏ +1 415-673-1921. M-Sa 6PM-2AM. This hard to find cocktail/spirit themed bar is a throwback to the prohibition days of the 1920s — this address used to be a thriving illegal "speakeasy" known as the "JJ Russell's Cigar Shop." Inside it's ornately decorated with dark woods giving the place a real cozy feel. It being a prohibition themed bar, they also have some strange house rules posted on the walls like "no photography" and "Please speak easy" They have an exhaustive selection of spirits and cocktails.

3 Edinburgh Castle, 950 Geary St (at Larkin St), ☏ +1 415-885-4074. 5PM-2AM daily. Expatriates from the British Isles are often to be found at this Scottish pub, which on Thursdays through Saturdays becomes a hipster mecca. The interior is warm and shadowy, a comfortable place of dark wood and golden lantern light, and the beer selection is good; you can get pints of Belhaven or Newcastle as well as the ubiquitous Guinness, and it's all available by the pitcher. The Edinburgh Castle also has a relationship with a local fish and chips fryer, so you can order from their menu and have it delivered to you at the pub. The jukebox is well stocked with punk rock, Irish folk/rock, and American roots music, and live bands also play regularly (which can unfortunately make it impossible to carry on a conversation). A trivia contest is held on Tuesday nights. And on Burns Night (January 25th), the Edinburgh Castle is the place to be, with ribald poetry readings, music, and a public haggis.

4 Hanaro, 939 Geary St (at Larkin St), ☏ +1 415-928-4066. Noon-2AM daily. Just across from the Edinburgh Castle is a shadowy hole-in-the-wall festooned with Korean lettering: Hanaro. Though the bar is wallpapered with "No Smoking" signs (as California law demands), you need only loiter outside the bar for a few minutes with a cigarette before you are beckoned inside and offered an ashtray. In fact, Hanaro's great charm is it that it's accommodating in every respect; stay for a bit and you will be offered various bar snacks, and there is usually a hostess on hand whose only job is to chat with the patrons. This is done, however, with taste and tact; if you wish to drink in silence, you won't be disturbed. The jukebox is stocked with Asian pop singles.

9 Aunt Charlie's Lounge, 133 Turk St (between Jones St and Taylor St), ☏ +1 415-441-2922, auntcharlies@artludesign.com. M-F noon-2AM, Sa 10AM-2AM, Su and Holidays 10AM-midnight. If you haven't already guessed from the name, "Aunt Charlie's" is a transvestite dive bar. It hosts a wide variety of entertainment shows and drag shows that are popular with gays, lesbians, transsexuals, and indeed straight patrons. Cheap, stiff drinks accompanied by endearing, harmless, and vocal co-drinkers, provides for fantastic people-watching.

10 Mitchell Brothers O'Farrell Theater, 895 O'Farrell St (at Polk St), ☏ +1 415-776-6686. M-Sa 11:30AM-1:30AM, Su 5:30PM-1:30AM. Tourists have flocked here for live, nude girls and dirty movies since 1971, when porn star Marilyn Chambers followed her performance in a Mitchell Brothers' film by becoming an Ivory Snow model. The venue is large, clean, and the biggest rip-off in adult entertainment this side of Paris. If possible, avoid this over-priced, over-hyped tourist trap for the Crazy Horse on Market (next to the Warfield) or any of the clubs on Broadway in North Beach. $20 before 6PM, $40 after 6PM, girls demand large tips for anything more.

Due to the lower rents and what was a general lack of options, there has been a recent revival of the coffee shops in the Tenderloin. The new, charming cafes provide relaxing shelter from the general hustle and bustle of the neighborhood.

11 Farm:Table, 754 Post St. M-F 7:30AM-4PM, Sa 8AM-4PM, Su 9AM-2PM. Very tiny spot with one large "farm table" (thus the name) and limited outdoor seating/standing bars. They serve coffee from nearby Santa Cruz roaster, Verve and have their own delicious sweets and other foods that they make daily. Very popular with the locals.

12 Hooker's Sweet Treats, 442 Hyde St. M-F 8AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-2PM. Great spot to pick up handmade chocolate caramels, bread pudding, and coffee from local roaster, Sightglass. Very cute interior decorated in an antique style and owned by a Louisiana native.

13 Soluna Cafe and Lounge, 272 McAllister St (at Larkin St), ☏ +1 415-621-2200. M-F 11:30AM-10PM, Sa 5PM-10PM. Just a stones throw from the performing arts buildings, it's a great place to grab a cappuccino just before the overture.

1 Adelaide Hostel, 5 Isadora Duncan Ln (between Geary St and Post St), ☏ +1 415-359-1915, fax: +1 415-614-1940, info@adelaidehostel.com. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: 11AM. This is a popular backpacker hostel just two blocks from Union Square. Dorms: $23 and up, Private rooms: $60 and up.

2 Hostelling International-City Center, 312 Mason St (at O'Farrel intersection), ☏ +1 (415) 788-5604, SFDowntown@hiusa.org. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Clean, cheap, safe, fun. The hostel has 75 beds in total, some are 4 or 5 bed dorms and others private rooms. All rooms have their own private bathroom. They offer a free breakfast and free wi-fi. Dorms: $27-42, Private Rooms: $89-129.

3 The Opal San Francisco, 1050 Van Ness Ave (between O'Farrell St and Geary St), ☏ +1 415-673-4711, fax: +1 415-673-9362, lhufford@chrco.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. An elegant 5 story hotel that was built after the 1906 earthquake, it has 164 guest rooms. They have a gym, laundry facilities, and all access to free wi-fi. $60-110.

4 Rodeway Inn Civic Center, 860 Eddy St (between Franklin St and Van Ness Ave), ☏ +1 415-474-4374, fax: +1 415-775-9329, rodewaysf@yahoo.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. This is a pretty standard but comfortable inn near Van Ness. They offer some free limited parking and a complimentary breakfast. $60-110.

5 Taylor Hotel, 615 Taylor St (at Post St), ☏ +1 415-775-0780, toll-free: +1-877-734-6835, info@sanfrancisco-budgethotel.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 10AM. This is an older building and the rooms are in need of paint, but it's relatively clean. There is a nice Indian couple who runs the place, they have wireless internet and a community computer in the lobby and a continental breakfast each morning. It's in a great location, just 2 blocks from Union Square. $66-90.

6 USA Hostels San Francisco, 711 Post St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☏ +1 415-440-5600, fax: +1 415-651-8802, sanfrancisco@usahostels.com. Check-in: Dormitory rooms: 10AM Private rooms: 2PM, check-out: 10AM. Great hostel operating in two buildings just off Union Square. All rooms have their own bathrooms. Dorms: $25-30, Private rooms: $64-81.

Boston Hotel, 140 Turk Street, ☏ +1 415-922-3227. (updated Jan 2022)

7 Cova Hotel, 655 Ellis St (between Hyde St and Larkin St), fax: +1 415-723-7877, contact@covahotel.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. This hotel has 96 well decorated rooms in the heart of downtown. All rooms have 300 thread count sheets, high definition TVs, complimentary breakfast, and free wi-fi. $85-300.

8 Hotel Bijou, 111 Mason St (at Eddy), ☏ +1 415-771-1200, fax: +1 415-346-3196. Hotel Bijou is inspired by San Francisco's rich cinematic history, adorned with movie palace stylings and Hollywood portraits, and features a mini movie theater in the lobby.

9 Hotel Metropolis, 25 Mason St (between Eddy St and Turk St), ☏ +1 415-775-4600, Reservations@PersonalityHotels.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. It's on the eastern outskirts of the Tenderloin, but there can be people sleeping in stairways and panhandling right next to the hotel, so it's authentic enough. Inside it is perfectly clean. $99-299.

10 The Phoenix Hotel, 601 Eddy St (at Larkin St), ☏ +1 415-776-1380, fax: +1 415-885-3109, phoenixhotel@jdvhotels.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. A boutique hotel, favored by musicians of all stripes, with free parking and breakfast. $119-169.

11 Hotel Carlton, 1075 Sutter St (at Larkin), ☏ +1 415-673-0242, fax: +1 415-673-4904, chickman@jdvhotels.com. A reasonably-priced boutique hotel with decorations that feature international travel. Non-smoking and pet-friendly hotel, and certified as a green business. Saha Restaurant in the lobby serves Arabic fusion cuisine.

12 Hotel Adagio, 550 Geary St (between Taylor St and Jones St), ☏ +1 415-775-5000, fax: +1 415-775-9388, info@jdvhospitality.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. A luxury boutique hotel featuring a fresh design that bridges its Spanish Colonial Revival architectural roots to a clean and contemporary design aesthetic. 2½ blocks away from the Powell St Cable Car line, 6 blocks from the Moscone Convention Center. $189-289.

13 The Hotel Monaco, 501 Geary St (at Taylor St), ☏ +1 415-292-0100, fax: +1 415-292-0111. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. A fun and hip boutique hotel. This is part of Kimpton Hotels, a San Francisco based hotel and restaurant company. $249-299.

14 Serrano Hotel, 405 Taylor St (at Taylor St and O'Farrell St), ☏ +1 415-885-2500, fax: +1 415-474-4879. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: noon. This is a deluxe boutique hotel in a 17-story Spanish Revival building. They have free high speed internet and a wine appreciation hour every evening. $239-329.