Copenhagen/Vestegnen

Vestegnen is a suburban district west of inner Copenhagen, Denmark, mostly build up during the 1970-80s. There is little of general interest to travellers here, but some of Copenhagen's nicest hostels (albeit with a great deal of transportation to Copenhagen's main attractions) and a single top-notch art museum - oh, and 7 km of white beach if you are fortunate enough to run into sunny days.

Two S-train directions run from the centre of Copenhagen through the district

Lines B to Høje Taastrup runs west through Hvidovre, Rødovre, Brøndby, Glostrup, Albertslund and Taastrup every 20 minutes from early morning till late night, and twice as often most of the day.

Line A to Hundige runs southwest through Åmarken, Friheden, Avedøre, Brøndby Strand, Vallensbæk and Ishøj every 20 minutes from early morning till late night. Line E to Køge stops at Vallensbæk, Ishøj, Hundige, Greve, Karlslunde and Solrød and also runs every 20 minutes from early morning till late night.

Approaching the district by train from west or south, you will get off at Høje Taastrup Station or Køge Nord Station and continue by S-train.

The easiest way to get around is by S-train. For destinations between S-train stations or away from the main traffic channels you can take one of the local buses, most of which do not run as frequent as in the central part of the city.

There are taxi stands at almost all S-train stations, but it will quite often be that no taxis are available and you will have to call one. Vest-Taxa (+45 43 45 45 45) is usually the fastest in the western suburbs and Taxa Selandia (+45 70 10 66 66) in the far southwestern suburbs. Taxa 4x35 (+45 35 35 35 35) is a good option closest to the central part of the city, but further away some waiting time can be expected.

1 Arken Museum of Modern Art, Skovvej 100, Ishøj (from Copenhagen Central Station, take the A or E line of the S-train for about 25 min to Ishøj Station; from there take bus 128 to Arken stop for 5 min, or walk for 20 min), ☏ +45 43 54 02 22. Tu Th-Su 10:00-17:00, W 10:00-21:00, M closed. By far the district's greatest attraction, and because of its location, rather undiscovered, even though it is one of Copenhagen's top museums. The striking building, located in dunes right next to the sea, was erected by architect Søren Robert Lund in 1996, and resembles a beached ship, the building has actually been criticized for drawing attention away from the art it houses. The temporary exhibitions are actually often the main attraction here, but the permanent collection includes many important mainly Scandinavian modern works. Also has a concert hall, cinema, sculpture courtyard and a restaurant. Adults 115 kr, students 95 kr, under 18 years free. (updated Sep 2017)

2 Greve Museum, Bækgårdsvej 9, Greve (Bus 126 from Solrød Strand or Taastrup stations to Greve Museum stop), ☏ +45 43 40 40 36. Tu-F 11:00-15:00, Su 11:00-17:00. Various exhibitions relating to rural history, and the history of the 200 years old farmhouse the museum in housed in. Also hosts various temporary exhibitions. There is a small café and a shop on the premises, and a lovely garden to enjoy a small picnic. Free.

3 Heerup Museum, Kirkesvinget 1, Rødovre (Bus 15 from Peter Bangs Vej Station to Rødovre Kirke stop), ☏ +45 36 37 87 00. Tu-Su 11:00-16:00. Henry Heerup (1907-1993) was a popular Danish painter, with close ties to the avant garde movement, although his work is often described as timeless, colorful and Childish. He received recognition outside Denmark, and has work exhibited at, for example, MOMA in New York and the Carnegie Institute. The museum's initial collection was donated by his widow, after his death. 45 kr.

4 Kroppedal, Kroppedals Allé 3, Taastrup (Bus 217 from Høje Taastrup station to Kroppedal stop), ☏ +45 43 30 30 00. Tu-F 10:00-16:00, Sa Su 14:00-17:00. A good museum, if a bit out of the way, but in beautiful surroundings by a small river valley. The museum has various stationary and changing exhibitions on astronomy, archaeology and modern history. Free.

5 Thorsbro Vandværk (Thorsbro waterworks), Allevej 29, Ishøj (Bus 126 from Solrød Strand or Taastrup stations to Allevej stop), ☏ +45 43 57 72 57. M-F 10:00-14:00, Th also 16:00-18:00. An industrial museum, displaying the history of the beautiful classic building, and its machinery - both are from the turn of the 20th century. Free.

Football: 1 Brøndby IF, Brøndby Stadion 8 (Bus 500 S from Glostrup station to Brøndbyhallen), ☏ +45 43 75 54 79. They play soccer in SuperLiga, the top tier. Games are usually played on Sundays. The stadium (capacity 29,000) is on the western outskirts of Copenhagen, 5 km from the centre. From 200 kr. (updated Nov 2018)

Hvidovre IF play in 1. Division the second tier. Their home ground (capacity 12,000) is just north of Friheden station.

2 Friluftsbadet Badesøen (Outdoor pool), Skallerne 14, Albertslund (Bus 141 from Albertslund station to Egelundsskolen stop)), ☏ +45 43 64 17 61. M-F 06:30-19:00, W 06:30-21:30, Sa Su 8:00-19:00. Features Europe's largest heated outdoor pool, 60 m in diameter, and two water slides, 45 and 60 m respectively. There is also Mini golf, Bocce, basketball and beach-volleyball fields on the large grass area. 55 kr.

3 Hedeland, Maglehøjgårdsvej 6A, Hedehusene (Bus 116 from Hedenhusende station to various stops (Reerslev skole direction)), ☏ +45 46 13 63 18. Hedeland is a unique and large recreation area, created on the area of an old gravel excavation site. It features a ski hill, Steam railway, miniature railway, amphitheatre with regular open air performances , a golf course, riding area and finally a motorbike racing club.

4 Ishøj Dyrepark, Brentevej 40, Ishøj (Bus 400S from Ishøj station to Industridalen), ☏ +45 43 53 72 79. While hardly worth travelling for, if you are staying in the area, and crave to escape some of the concrete, this green area with grazing deer, Scottish highland cattle, goats and sheep makes for a good small excursion.

5 Middelalderlandsbyen (The medieval village), Nybovej 11, Brøndby (Bus 135 or 166 from Brøndby Strand station to Ulsøparken stop.), ☏ +45 40 17 87 07. No set opening hours. A living history museum opened in 1999. The village consists of seven reconstructed houses as they would have looked in the 13th century surrounding a small village pond. There are several workshops with many activities for the kids. Free.

6 Vikingelandsbyen (The Viking village), Ledøjevej 35, Albertslund (Bus 143 from Glostrup station to Risby stop.), ☏ +45 43 64 20 29. A small volunteer community project to reconstruct a Viking village using original construction methods. It is just at the outskirts of a nice forest (Vestskoven) and it is free to peek in, and look around, though it is mainly meant as a living history museum for local school children. Free.

When city planners turned this area of former villages and farmland into unending suburbia (a transformation they now much regret), they turned to their North American counterparts for inspiration, and erected some huge impersonal shopping centers, complete with the usual, characterless chain stores, which leaves the shopping in Vestegnen a bit to be desired. You can find these shopping centers opposite almost every S-train station in the district. The largest of these malls are the aptly named City2, a short walk away from Høje Taastrup station, with 110 stores and a large cinema complex over 100,000 m², and Rødovre Centrum a bit off the main public transport corridors, also with 110 stores.

Except for Arti'kok you can safely disregard these listings if you are not staying in the district, as there are much better restaurants nearer the city centre.

1 Arti'kok, Hvidovrevej 92, Hvidovre, ☏ +41 36 75 07 41. M-Th 17:00-23:00, Sa Su 17:00-00:00. Gourmet Danish cuisine, and easily the best restaurant in the district. Main courses from 135 kr, five-course menu including wine 695 kr.

2 Café Jenners, Mosede Strandvej 25, Greve (1 km along the beach northeast from Karlslunde S-train Station, or take bus 121 from Hunding S-train Station to Bækmose Stop and walk 100m northeast), ☏ +45 4369 9339. M-W 12:00-23:00, Th F 12:00-00:00, Sa 11:00-00:00, Su 11:00-21:00. Café/restaurant close to the coast south of Copenhagen. Nice place for a drink or some café style food. The menu is not impressive and comprises mostly burgers and sandwiches, but everything is well made. Main courses around 100 kr, beer from 45 kr, coffee around 25 kr.

3 Jenners Seaside, Havnevej 20, Greve, ☏ +45 43699339. 11:00-16:00; Jun-Aug from 11:00. Seafood restaurant right on Mosede harbour. (updated Jul 2016)

4 Espehus, Korsdalsvej 77, Rødovre (Bus 13 from Glostrup station to Espelunden stop), ☏ +45 36 41 07 58. M-F 12:00-16:00 and 17:30-21, Su 12:00-16:00. Danish-French kitchen in unusually cosy surroundings for the district in a pretty white house with thatched roof À la carte from 225 kr, lunch from 69 kr.

5 Fortet Café og Restaurant, Mosede Strandvej 91, Greve (200m from Karlsunde S-train Station towards the coast), ☏ +45 43903979. M-Sa 11:00-22:00, Su 10:00-16:00. Great location by the Mosede Fortress and not far away from Mosede Harbour and the beach. The food is average with a couple of generic options, so go for the fish which is usually good and fresh. À la carte from 148 kr.

6 Hereford Steakhouse, Taastrup Hovedgade 106 (Walk 600 meters south from Taastrup station)), ☏ +45 43 52 00 39. M-F 11:30-22:00, Sa Su 17:00-22:00. Traditional Danish open sandwiches for lunch and steaks for dinner. Lunch courses from 60 kr, main courses 170-235 kr.

7 Kabyssen, Søhesten 14, Ishøj (Walk 25 minutes (2.5 km) from Ishøj station), ☏ +45 43 73 79 71. April-September: 12:00-22:00, October-March: Tu-Su 12:00-21:00. Simple place serving traditional Danish fare at low prices, the outdoor seating is really cosy on warm days, with good views over the nearby Marina. Cheap.

8 Restaurant Krabben, Vallensbæk Havn, Vallensbæk, ☏ +45 43 54 05 45. M-F 11:30-22:00, Sa Su 12:00-22:00. Next to the marina with a nice terrace. Danish cuisine. Lunch courses from 59 kr, main courses from 158 kr.

Expect to drink with local alcoholics and kids who think Adidas trunk pants are the coolest thing since flavored Vodka. In other words, not really worth it unless you can not be bothered to go all the way into the city centre.

1 Escape, Hovedvejen 118, Glostrup, ☏ +45 43453138. F Sa 11:00-17:00. While hardly exciting there is not many other clubs in the area, plays mainly 1980s music and current mainstream hits.

2 Damhuskroen Old Irish, Roskildevej 244, Rødovre, ☏ +45 36 70 40 36. Th 11:00-00:00, F Sa 11:00-05:00, Su 11:00-17:00. Unless you are looking to score a middle-aged bird wearing too much mascara or a similarly aged guy in a jumpsuit, you might want to give this place a miss. Though some younger guests are there for the entertainment they provide, and just let loose.

3 Carls Old Inn, Rødovrevej 260, Rødovre, ☏ +45 36 72 62 60. M-Th 11:00-00:00, F Sa 11:00-02:00, Su 11:00-22:00. It is not saying much, but this is one of the better pubs in area. It is best before or after the local ice-hockey team plays their matches, as this is the usual hang-out for their fans.

4 Center Pub, Hvidovrevej 178, Hvidovre, ☏ +45 36472269. Su-Th 09:00-00:00, F Sa 09:00-02:00. Yet another local watering hole with football memorabilia on the walls, and relatively cheap beers

5 Hovsa Bodega, Seminarievej 1, Brøndby, ☏ +45 43 96 45 70. This place's main claim to fame is as the unofficial pre-game bar of the local team, Brøndby IF, There is a flat-screen television for watching football games and draft beers are available for quite cheap 28 kr a glass.

6 Under Uret, Greve Midt Bycenter 10K, Greve, ☏ +45 43600444. M-W 10:00-22:00, Th 10:00-00:00, F Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 11:00-20:30. A fairly nice place by suburban standards, it even has a selection with foreign beers and is popular with students from the local high school

Many hotels located here claims to be near the city centre, for the most part they are outright lying, and the only reason to sleep at these suburban hotels is if you have business or family relations in the area. One exception is the budget listings which are actually good options.

Vestegnen is generally safe, but since it is mostly known for its ghetto-areas, with a high percentage of residents with low income, low education and an immigration-background, crime (more specific robberies and muggings, and rarely gang-wars) can occur more often than in Copenhagen, so be aware of your surroundings and stay out of the ghetto-areas, especially at night. If a group of people is trying to provoke you, ignore them and don't provoke back. If you spot such a group or see something odd, you don't feel comfortable with, staying out of business and walk slowly and quiet away.

In the town Brøndby, do not wear anything that sympathizes with "F.C. Copenhagen", since fans of Brøndby IF are likely to get provoked. But as long as you stay out of the ghetto-areas, characterized with high residential, similar-looking building-complexes, you would find the atmosphere quite peaceful and friendly.

The best options for internet access is the various public libraries in the area:

Avedøre Bibliotek (Library), Hjulmagerporten 1, ☏ +45 36 34 36 00. M-Th 10:00-18:00, F 10:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-14:00.

Brøndby(vester) Bibliotek (Library), Glentemosen 13, ☏ +45 43 28 20 60. M-W 13:00-17:00, Th 13:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-14:00.

Glostrup (Library), ☏ +45 43 23 68 20. M-Th 10:00-19:00, F 10:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-14:00.

Ishøj Bibliotek (Library), Ishøj Store Torv 1, ☏ +45 43 57 71 71. M-Th 10:00-19:00, F 10:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-15:00.

Taastrup Bibliotek (Library), Selsmosevej 2, ☏ +45 43 35 20 00. M-F 10:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-14:00.