Cape Le Grand National Park

Typical of the southern coastal region, the parks terrain comprises gently undulating heath-covered sandplain interspersed with swamps and the occasional shallow pools of fresh water. The lower coastal section of the park is interwoven chain of gneiss and granite rock headlands that fridge the bays and rise up into the distinctive peaks of Mount Le Grand (345 m), Frenchman Peak (262 m) and Mississippi Hill (180 m). Much of the curving shapes of the outcrops and peaks were being formed 40 million years ago in the Eocene period when higher ocean level put the present land underwater and the caves and tunnels evident in the peaks were etched out by waves action and ocean currents. Apart from the access roads and some low impact recreational facilities the area has changed very little since the sea receded at the end of the Eocene.

Small native mammals such as the honey possum, quenda, southern brown bandicoot inhabit the park, though you would be lucky to glimpse them during the day. You are more likely to encounter grey kangaroos who frequent the beaches and campsites, quite unperturbed by human observers. Reptile species such as the barking gecko, legless lizard and the heath monitor are commonly found scampering among the granite outcrops. Swamp and freshwater areas support a chorus of several frog species including the quacking frog, the western banjo frog and the humming frog. Southern Right Whales can be spotted spurting jets of water or belly flopping in the ocean as they cruise around the islands during their calving season in mid-Oct–Nov.

The heath comprises mostly of low scrubby bushes and coastal grasses, though pockets of deep sandy soils support dense thickets of Banksia that can grow to a height of 3 or 4 metres. The brush like flowers of the Banksia explode into colour during the regions short wild flower season around Sep–Nov. Nuytsia floribunda, more commonly known as the native Christmas tree, has a similar short profusion of yellow-orange flowers usually between late November and January. Throughout the year the surrounds are dotted with the red fingers of Grevilleas, the white bottle brush like Melaleuca and the shimmering green fronds of the ubiquitous grass tree.

The Esperance region is renowned, or perhaps notorious, for its erratic weather. A warm, blue-sky day can quickly fill with stormy clouds that pass before you can even get your umbrella out. Blustery winds and frequent, but short, bursts of frigid rain can temporarily dampen your plans but you will forget it all when the clear periods make for utterly idyllic conditions.

Temperatures in the summer months (Dec–Feb) are relatively mild, rarely cracking 25⁰ C during the day and dropping to 15–17⁰ C at night. Winter months (Jun–Aug) sees the daytime temperatures drop to around 18⁰ C and a chilly 8⁰ C at night. Rain and the Antarctic winds are at their most persistent at this time of the year and a good blast off the glaciers can quickly drop temperatures by several degrees.

The main entrance to the park is around 50 km by road from Esperance. Take Fisheries Road, then turn off at Merivale Road and then on to Cape Le Grand Road to the park entrance.

The second entrance at the Le Grand Beach campsite is accessed by driving 30 km along the beach from Wylie Bay. A 4WD is essential and be sure to check tides as parts of the beach can be cut off by the rising tide. Many imprudent people have lost their cars to the sea.

Seafarers can enter the park from the Southern Ocean. The park lacks jettys to dock at so you will have to drop anchor at a suitable spot offshore and make land fall on a smaller craft. Lucky Bay has been a popular sheltered water for centuries.

Frenchman's Peak – (2 hr return, 30–45 min up) A popular climb as it's not too hard to reach the 262-m summit, though a reasonable amount of fitness and balance is needed to traverse the constant incline and scamper over obstructing boulders. Markers from the bottom show a general path to follow up the side with the gentler incline. The lower half is more or less flat (albeit with an upwards slant) but the upper reaches requires some scrambling around and over rocks. Strong winds may cause some difficulty and extra caution is needed in the rain as the moss covered surface gets very slippery. It's a good idea to take water, wear a hat and be prepared for changing weather conditions.

Mount Le Grand – (3 hr return, 1 hr up) Slightly higher than Frenchmans Peak at 345 m, but a far more challenging climb as there are not any defined paths to the summit. A pair of caves on the eastern side are worth exploring and, of course, the view from the top worth the climb. The most direct access is from Hellfire Bay.

Mississippi Hill – (30 min return) At 180 m this one is a mere bump compared to the other peaks. The trail starts at the Lucky Bay campsite and winds its way up the very gentle hill and is a pleasant walk in the evening.

The abundant marine life in the crystal clear waters and a few wrecks attract divers to the region, though the frigid waters and turbulent current of the southern ocean might deter the feint hearted.

Sanko Harvest wreck (12 km south of Hellfire Bay). The second largest diveable wreck in the world and the largest on the Australian coast. The 33,000-tonne Japanese tanker hit a reef in 1991 and after spilling its cargo of fertilizer and diesel into the bay was declared unsalvagable and scuttled. The sunken 174m-long ship has broken into 3 pieces that lay at a depth of 13 to 44 m. The hull is covered with kelp, anemones, sponges and sea tulips though it is still possible to access the ships bridge, engine room and the tower cranes. The site was declared a marine sanctuary in 1994 for its resident schools of blue groper, red snapper and the occasional seal or dolphin. The turbulent southern ocean and strong winds make it a difficult dive though around April is said to best time to dive as the winds are a little lighter.

Islands of the Recherche Archipelago. Numerous scraggly islands and small granite domes with their heads barely above water that are part of the Archipelago, lay within the park. Underwater granite walls, boulders, caves and reefs can be explored. The largest are Ram and Mondrain islands.

A 15 km long hiking trail follows the coastline from Le Grand beach, passing through Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove, Lucky Bay and ending at Rossiter Bay. The trail is well signposted and information boards along the way point out the significant flora, fauna and cultural features. Most people take 6–8 hours to complete the whole length, though less ambitious hikers may opt to take on just one of the four sections. Each section takes about 2–3 hours except for the short section from Thistle Cove to Lucky Bay which you can easily walk in 30 min. The two sections from Le Grand Beach to Thistle Cove are the most difficult as the headland necessitates negotiating varying inclines and descents. The other two sections from Thistle cove to Rossiter Bay are more easy going as the terrain is flatter and the Thistle Cove–Lucky Bay section is easy and short enough to be suitable for children. The start or end point of each section is accessible by road, enabling you to have someone drop you off and pick you up and the other end.

Located at opposite ends of the park, the two low impact camping areas each have a distinct feel. Though the sites are basic, both provide treated rain water taps, solar heated shower block and a campers kitchen. The campers kitchen has BBQs, four burner cooktops and a sink. There aren't any publicly accessible electricity outlets.

Camping fees at both camp sites are $9 per adult, per night. The ranger collects the fees directly from you whenever they make their rounds, usually in the morning and evening.

Le Grand Beach campsite – Fourteen spaced out caravan bays behind the sand dunes with a campers kitchen and clean ablution block. Sometimes it smells of the ocean – and not in a good way.

Luckybay campsite – On the bay, sheltered under trees. A bakers dozen of caravans sites and a smaller, somewhat cramped, separate area for tents. This one is the more popular and fills up fast during long weekends.

Camping rough outside of the campsites or in parking lots is not permitted.