Buffalo/South Buffalo

South Buffalo's history begins with the completion of the Erie Canal in 1825, at that time the most ambitious engineering project ever undertaken in the United States: a 363-mile (584-km) inland waterway from Albany to the sleepy frontier village of Buffalo. Though the bulk of what is now South Buffalo was then part of the Buffalo Creek Reservation, which had been set aside for the Seneca Indians at the time of the Holland Purchase in 1793, the lots immediately east of the harbor (today's Cobblestone District and Old First Ward) were not — and when the unskilled, destitute immigrant laborers from Ireland they hired to dig the canal were finished, they settled there.

The first years of the Erie Canal were a time of explosive growth for Buffalo, and the First Ward was no exception. This was among the city's lowest-lying land, and Buffalo's founding fathers had not even bothered to divide it into lots, assuming that no one would want to live on this swampy riverbank. But the digging of the canal was such a huge undertaking that there were hundreds if not thousands of Irishmen who needed housing, and the First Ward, dirt-cheap and close to the canal, was a natural place for them to make their homes. The poorest of the poor lived in the blocks south of the main drag of Elk Street (now South Park Avenue) in what was called "The Flats", which, in springtime and after heavy rains, would almost always be inundated by floodwaters from the Buffalo River. In the 1840s, during the Irish Potato Famine, another wave of immigrants crossed the Atlantic — and the First Ward became even more crowded.

In those days, when freighters filled with grain and flour arrived at port in Buffalo, the cargo had to be unloaded, divided, and sent east in canal boats by hand — a slow, inefficient process that required more workers than the First Ward had to offer. Buffalo's growth was stunted by the bottleneck of too many ships, too much grain, and too few workers. Enter Joseph Dart, a local merchant who, in 1842, invented a machine that unloaded grain by steam power, stored it in a huge silo, and loaded it later onto canal barges: the first grain elevator. In the space of less than ten years, the Buffalo River was lined with grain elevators, and the reinvigorated harbor had become so congested that many freighters could not find any place to berth. The city responded by constructing a network of feeder canals and basins, such as the City Ship Canal, the Main and Hamburg Canal, and the Ohio Basin, that crisscrossed the First Ward — and whose polluted, stagnant waters helped spread cholera and other communicable plagues among the residents. The First Ward earned the reputation as one of the nastiest slums in the country, plagued by crime and disease, where the desperately poor lived in shanties and tenements sandwiched among the shipyards and factories, working as canal boaters, grain scoopers, longshoremen, and miscellaneous unskilled laborers and shunned by their Anglo-Saxon Protestant social betters.

Thanks to Lake Erie, South Buffalo's climate is a little bit different than other parts of the city.

Much as in downtown, in the warmer months areas near the waterfront are noticeably cooler and windier than other parts of the city. This can be a double-edged sword: the fresh lake breezes are a godsend on a hot summer day, but if you're birdwatching at Times Beach or biking the Shoreline Trail in the spring or autumn, you might want to wear a jacket and long pants.

These same winds over the lake also mean that, even more than other parts of the city, South Buffalo really gets pummeled in the winter with lake-effect snow. After the winds pass onto dry land, it takes some time for the snow to condense out of the moisture-rich air — so, curiously enough, it's not unusual for Cazenovia Park to get walloped while the Outer Harbor only sees a dusting.

Against the Grain: The History of Buffalo's First Ward by Timothy Bohen (ISBN 9780615620527). An engaging chronicle of the Old First Ward from its initial settlement in the 1820s and '30s to the present day, as well as the larger-than-life characters who have called it home over the years — including champion prizefighter Jimmy Slattery, politico William "Fingy" Conners (more on him below), World War I hero and intelligence agent William "Wild Bill" Donovan, and, of course, Buffalo mayor Jimmy Griffin.

Author Richard Sullivan mines the lore of three generations of his ancestral family for The First Ward, a five-part series of novels that paints a slightly fictionalized but remarkably true-to-life portrait of life in the colorful titular neighborhood from the 1850s through the first decades of the 20th century. In Fingy Conners, the Sullivan Brothers & Mark Twain (ISBN 9781463636586), an account of the friendship between Twain (then a columnist for the Buffalo Express) and the author's great-grandfather and great-great-uncle (a police detective and city councilman, respectively) serves as window dressing for the nefarious exploits of Conners, a local dock laborer turned shipping magnate and political boss who the author describes as "America's most hateful yet least-known villain". Fingy Conners and the New Century (ISBN 9781478172932) follows the further rivalries between Conners and the Sullivan brothers, with Teddy Roosevelt, Nellie Bly, William Randolph Hearst, and other turn-of-the-century luminaries putting in appearances. Conners is relegated to a supporting role in the third and fourth installments: Murderers, Scoundrels and Ragamuffins (ISBN 9781515212515), wherein Detective Sullivan, haunted by the memory of the McKinley assassination, is tasked with reforming the city's corrupt and incompetent police department amidst a series of brutal murders and ahead of President Taft's visit to Buffalo, and His Lips Forgot the Taste of Truth (ISBN 9781974190126), which pits the Sullivans against serial killer J. Frank Hickey, who claimed a dozen Western New York victims in the 1910s. And of course, keep your eye out for the exciting conclusion, on which (as of Mar 2020) the author is hard at work!

The World According to Griffin: The End of an Era by Brian Meyer (ISBN 1879201119). Sixteen years' worth of colorful, no-holds-barred sound bites from the eminently quotable Jimmy Griffin, four-term mayor of Buffalo and proud native son of the First Ward, as collected by the Buffalo News freelancer who worked the City Hall beat during his tenure.

South Buffalo is surrounded on three sides by highways. Though the New York State Thruway (I-90) runs just beyond and roughly parallel to the city line, it doesn't provide direct access to South Buffalo. However, the district is well-served by the other two.

Interstate 190 skirts the border between South Buffalo and the East Side on an east-west trajectory from the Thruway toward downtown, then turning north and passing through the West Side on its way toward Niagara Falls and the Canadian border.

To get to the Skyway via the northbound lanes, get off at Church Street downtown and follow the signs for the Outer Harbor.

The Buffalo Skyway (NY 5) begins downtown at I-190 and extends southward parallel to the lake shore, providing access to the Outer Harbor and various other parts of South Buffalo:

If you're visiting in the winter, keep in mind that the Skyway is often closed when there is inclement weather.

South Park Avenue is the main surface route between downtown and South Buffalo, running from the foot of Main Street somewhat south of due east through the Cobblestone District, the Old First Ward, and The Valley, then turning sharply southward at a complicated intersection with Bailey Avenue and Abbott Road where it picks up the designation of US 62. Thenceforward, it runs along the eastern edge of The Triangle, past South Park, and on beyond the city line. This somewhat confusing trajectory results from the fact that the portion of its route north of Southside Parkway was cobbled together in the 1930s from what was once Triangle Street and parts of Abbott Road and Elk Street. A GPS system or map will come in handy when navigating South Park, as there are a lot of opportunities for wrong turns. At the aforementioned confusing intersection, South Park meets Bailey Avenue (US 62), which runs north through Seneca-Babcock and into the East Side, and Abbott Road, which continues southeastward past Cazenovia Park and into the residential heart of South Buffalo.

Seneca Street (NY 16) straddles the murky, poorly-defined northern border of South Buffalo, running roughly southeastward from downtown through the Ellicott District, Larkinville, and Seneca-Babcock, through the South Buffalo business district, past Cazenovia Park, and into suburbia. Further north still, Clinton Street (NY 354) clips the northern boundary of Seneca-Babcock.

Though it didn't appear in his original plans, Frederick Olmsted's influence is evident in the Outer Harbor Parkway, a three-and-a-half mile (5.6-km) stretch of Fuhrmann Boulevard that runs along the Outer Harbor between Times Beach and the Union Ship Canal, which was redesigned in 2010. The Outer Harbor Parkway's design pays tribute to the grand avenues Olmsted built elsewhere in the city with all the classic features of his work: elegant roundabouts, charming antique lampposts, and a wide central median lush with trees and greenery.

Public transit in Buffalo and the surrounding area is provided by the Niagara Frontier Transportation Authority (NFTA). The NFTA Metro system encompasses a single-line light-rail rapid transit (LRRT) system and an extensive network of buses. The fare for a single trip on a bus or train is $2.00 regardless of length. No transfers are provided between buses or trains; travelers who will need to make multiple trips per day on public transit should consider purchasing an all-day pass for $5.00.

The Metro Rail lies north of South Buffalo, on a 6.4-mile (10.3 km) stretch of Main Street running south and west from the South Campus of the University at Buffalo. However, the southernmost station, 1 Erie Canal Harbor Station, is located at the corner of Main and Scott Streets, adjacent to Canalside and a stone's throw away from the Cobblestone District. As well, connections to Buses 14, 16 and 42 are also available a block down Scott Street, at Washington Street.

In early 2013, plans were hatched to extend the Metro Rail an additional 0.6 miles (1 km) past its current southern terminus. Trains would turn eastward around the back of the KeyBank Center, pass through the upper level of the former DL&W Train Shed that is now the NFTA's terminal depot, and continue along South Park Avenue through the Cobblestone District, ending at a parking ramp to be built at the corner of Michigan Avenue (and across the street from the Seneca Buffalo Creek Casino) that would serve commuters to the intentionally parking-poor Medical Corridor. At last check, the project had moved beyond the conceptual stage into the realm of feasibility studies and public workshops — but given the constant service delays and sharp reduction in ridership during the reconstruction of Main Street downtown, not to mention the scores of Metro Rail expansion plans over the decades that never went anywhere, the smart money says "don't hold your breath".

Buffalo has made great strides in accommodating bicycling as a mode of transportation, with recognition from the League of American Bicyclists as a Bronze-Level "Bicycle-Friendly Community" to show for its efforts. The development of bike paths and lanes in South Buffalo lags somewhat behind more cycle-friendly parts of the city like Allentown and the Elmwood Village, but as in the rest of the city, it's improved: notably, the conversion of Ohio Street into a vital link in Buffalo's bicycle transportation network — with two off-street bike lanes flanking an attractive tree-lined swath through the Old First Ward — was completed in July 2015.

The showpiece of South Buffalo's bicycle infrastructure is the Industrial Heritage Trail, the Outer Harbor leg of the Shoreline Trail that runs along the waterfront all the way to North Tonawanda. Completed in 2010, this waterfront path extends along the shore of Lake Erie from the Coast Guard station southward along the waterfront into Lackawanna, passing by or through waterfront attractions such as Times Beach, Buffalo Harbor State Park, Tifft Nature Preserve, and Ship Canal Commons. The Shoreline Trail continues to downtown and the more northerly waterfront via Ohio Street and South Park Avenue, mostly along off-street paths (including a particularly interesting stretch on the shore of the Buffalo River behind the old DL&W Train Sheds that gives you an up-close-and-personal look at the grain elevators), with the exception of a few stretches along Ohio Street with dedicated on-street bike lanes. From Memorial Day through Columbus Day, you can also get to the Outer Harbor from Canalside via the Queen City Bike Ferry; the fare is $1.

Aside from the Shoreline Trail, South Buffalo's original Olmsted parkways are also great places to enjoy a bike ride. McKinley Parkway has a bike lane on each side of the street from Southside Parkway at Heacock Park through to McKinley Circle and onward into Lackawanna, where it comes to an end at South Park in front of the Buffalo & Erie County Botanical Gardens. Red Jacket Parkway links Cazenovia Park to McKinley Parkway at McClellan Circle, again with bike lanes on each side of the street.

Other South Buffalo streets have also been fitted with bike lanes and other accommodations. The Cazenovia Park area has a particularly dense concentration — with "sharrows" (pavement markings on roads too narrow to accommodate dedicated bike lanes, indicating that drivers should be aware of bicyclists) on Seneca Street between Southside Parkway and the city line, on Warren Spahn Drive through the park itself, as well as a dedicated bike lane on each side of North Legion Parkway for its entire length — as does the Cobblestone District, where there's a bike lane on each side of Michigan Avenue between Scott and Ohio Streets, as well as one in each direction along South Park Avenue between the KeyBank Center and Marvin Street (the bike lanes also continue up Marvin, behind the Seneca Buffalo Creek Casino, to Perry Street). Further down South Park Avenue, bike lanes appear again between Hamburg and Dorrance Streets. Elsewhere, the Tifft Street Greenway Connector serves as a brief spur of the Shoreline Trail along Tifft Street east to Ship Canal Parkway, with dedicated on-street bike lanes east of there as far as Hopkins Street, and a similar spur runs off the Ohio Street trail to Mutual Park via St. Clair Street and South Street. Finally, in Larkinville there's a bike lane on each side of Seneca Street between Emslie and Smith Streets, with plans in place to eventually bridge the gap between Smith Street and Southside Parkway with dedicated lines, sharrows, or some combination thereof.

South Buffalo has two Reddy Bikeshare racks:

at Larkin Square, alongside Seneca Street at the end of the first walkway past Van Rensselaer Street

at RiverWorks on Ganson Street (follow the signs for the entrance; the rack is on the right side of the blue-gray office building next to the Labatt Blue grain silos)

If you're planning a weekend visit to the Outer Harbor but human-powered cycling isn't your thing, 2 Buffalo Fat Bikes is another option. On Saturdays and Sundays in summer between 11AM and 8:30PM, these folks rent out motorized bicycles (with specialized fat tires for balance) from their kiosk at Wilkeson Pointe at a rate of $20 for the first hour plus $10 for each hour after. If a regular old pedal-powered bike is more to your liking, they have those, too, at half of the foregoing rate or $25 all day; tandem bikes go for $15 for the first hour and $10 each hour thereafter, as well as various other fun contraptions (check website for rates).

While walking is not a feasible way to travel between the neighborhoods of South Buffalo, there are many areas within this sprawling district that are great for pedestrians. Abbott Road, especially north of Cazenovia Park, is a nice place for a stroll and some window-shopping. Similarly, if you want to go bar-hopping on Seneca Street, it's perfectly possible to leave your car at the hotel.

Buffalo's glorious past as an industrial giant is on full display in South Buffalo's range of historic museums and attractions.

1 Edward M. Cotter, moored at north end of Michigan Avenue Lift Bridge (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42). Sometimes open for tours during festival appearances. The 118-foot (36-m) Edward M. Cotter is the oldest fireboat in the world still on active duty, and is inscribed on the National Register of Historic Places and as a National Historic Landmark. Launched in 1900, the boat was originally named the William Grattan after Buffalo's fire commissioner at the time. After it suffered a devastating explosion in 1928 (flying sparks from a burning oil barge entered its fuel tank), it was rebuilt from the burned-out shell of its hull at a cost of nearly $100,000. With a maximum speed of about 15 miles per hour (24 km/h), the Cotter is the slowest piece of firefighting machinery the Buffalo Fire Department owns, but it's indispensable for its ability to reach places on the waterfront inaccessible to ordinary fire trucks, and it has ten times the water-pumping capacity of the average fire truck. Over the years, the Cotter has seen action such as going across the lake to Port Colborne in 1960 to help fight a fire at a grain elevator complex; helping keep afloat the Buffalo Naval and Military Park's USS Little Rock after it began taking on water in 1978, and towing the Polish ship Zawisza Czarny off of a sandbar when it came to Buffalo Harbor for a visit in 1983. During the quiet winter months, the Cotter serves double duty as an icebreaker on the Buffalo River; during the summer, it can frequently be seen at local waterfront festivals and boat shows, where tours are also offered.

2 Heritage Discovery Center, 100 Lee St (Metro Bus 14 or 16). Opened in 2012 on a 35-acre (14-ha) site that used to be home to a chemical dye plant, the Heritage Discovery Center contains space for community organizations and events as well as a pair of small museums that celebrate various aspects of Buffalo's industrial history. As money from government organizations and private donors continues to flow toward the restoration of the old Buffalo Color buildings, more developments are on the way. (updated Dec 2022)

Steel Plant Museum, ☏ +1 716-821-9361. Tu Th 10AM-2PM, Sa 10AM-4PM. Between 1903 and 1982, Lackawanna, the industrial city immediately south of Buffalo, was home to the largest steel plant in the world, which covered 1,600 acres (640 ha) and employed 20,000 workers at its height. Established in 1984, the Steel Plant Museum tells the story of the Lackawanna Steel Plant and its workforce, as well as other area steel companies such as Republic Steel and Hanna Furnace, by displaying memorabilia such as union records, safety gear, signs, tools, steel specimens, and technical literature. Donation. (updated Dec 2022)

4 Flat Man, on the Greenway Nature Trail just south of the Bell Slip. The Flat Man sure gets around: from its creation in 1963 through today, this 30-foot (9-m) sculpture — the work of Buffalo's own Larry Griffis, whose other works of public art around town include Birds Excited Into Flight on Bidwell Parkway and Spirit of Womanhood in Delaware Park — has been moved from its original site at the Kissing Bridge ski resort in Colden, to the 400-acre Griffis Sculpture Park in Cattaraugus County, to the Essex Arts Center on the West Side, to his new home on the Outer Harbor, where he's giving Canalside's Shark Girl a run for her money as a popular destination for selfie-snapping visitors. Sculpted in the artist's preferred medium of cold-rolled steel (milled just down the road at the Lackawanna Steel Plant), it's an oversized, abstract depiction of what its title indicates, with a heart-shaped opening in its chest promoting a message of love and inclusiveness for all. (updated Jan 2019)

5 (716) GAL-LERY, 716 Swan St (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23). Tu-Th 4:30PM-10PM, F Sa 4:30PM-11PM. Located at the Hydraulic Hearth restaurant on Swan Street, (716) GAL-LERY bills itself as Buffalo's smallest art gallery. It's a repurposed 1950s-era phone booth where works from a local artist are displayed. Pick up the phone and it plays a recording that tells you a bit about the artist and his or her work. The featured artist changes on a bimonthly basis. There's also a "gift shop" that consists of a 50-cent vending machine that dispenses stickers and temporary tattoos designed by local artists.

Despite its former industrial character, today's South Buffalo is all about the outdoors, with a huge, breathtaking expanse of shoreline at its front door and many former industrial facilities that have been repurposed as green spaces.

In 1887, twenty years after the first phase of his work in Buffalo was complete, landscape architect extraordinaire Frederick Law Olmsted was called back to design an extension of his extremely popular park system to serve residents of the southern part of the city. His original design for the new sector would have been centered on a large park stretching inland from Lake Erie (around the site of the present-day Ship Canal Commons), rivaling Delaware Park in size and boasting a beach, athletic fields, and a Venice-like maze of man-made canals for pleasure boaters extending all the way to downtown. After city leaders balked at the cost of such a park, he returned in 1894 with a second proposal that's the basis for what exists today: two inland parks, South Park and Cazenovia Park, linked to each other by a network of parkways that merge at the small Heacock Park to the north. Today, compared to the damage inflicted over the years by careless planners on the original parks and parkways, South Buffalo's Olmsted elements remain remarkably true to their original design. The links at Cazenovia Park draw golfers from all over Western New York — and, of course, locals by the thousands flock to the Buffalo & Erie County Botanical Gardens, the verdant centerpiece of South Park.

6 Cazenovia Park, North side of Potters and Abbott Rds. between Cazenovia St. and the city line (Metro Bus 14 or 15). Straddling Cazenovia Creek in the southeast corner of the city, Cazenovia Park is most famous as the site of an eponymous 9-hole golf course that's arguably the finest in the city. More than that, though, this is a place of wooded walking paths, serene creekside views, and friendly games of pickup baseball on well-manicured diamonds. There's also a swimming pool and an ice rink. When the park was first built, the creek was dammed to create the large Cazenovia Park Lake, on the shore of which stood a pleasant, airy lodge (still in existence today as the Peter J. Crotty Casino) with charming views over the water from the veranda. Athletic fields, a carriage concourse, a bandstand, and gardens almost as extensive as South Park's rounded out the original offerings. In 1925, Cazenovia Park's size was almost doubled by the addition of a golf course to its east end; though not designed by Olmsted, the seclusion of the new portion from the rest of the park means that the divide between Cazenovia's two halves seems nearly seamless. Aside from the lake, which was drained in 1965 due to persistent problems with flooding and pollution (revealing the previously submerged Cazenovia Park Falls; see below), the park remains mostly true to its original design and is in better shape than many of the other Olmsted parks in the city.

10 Buffalo Harbor State Park, Along Fuhrmann Blvd. between Ohio and Tifft Sts. (Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-878-0027. In May 2014, the Outer Harbor became the site of the 180th State Park in New York, and the first one to be located within Buffalo's city limits. These 190 acres (77 ha) of waterfront land incorporate the existing Gallagher Beach (see below) and Safe Harbor Marina as well as the new Tifft Street Pier. In addition to those amenities which are described in more detail below, there's also a free carousel and playground for the kids, facilities for picnickers, a slate of special events, and a bike and walking path that extends about a third of a mile (600 m) from the parking lot and boat launch (under construction as of autumn 2016) along the L-shaped breakwall on the perimeter of the Small Boat Harbor, with great views over the lake and several access points for fishing. Free.

11 Gallagher Beach, 1515 Fuhrmann Blvd. (Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-852-2356. For many decades an "unofficial" swimming hole and summer recreation area for South Buffalo residents (including inimitable former mayor Jimmy Griffin), Gallagher Beach is one of Buffalo Harbor State Park's marquee attractions. Buffalonians flock to Gallagher Beach in the summer months to walk and bike along the new boardwalk and to enjoy sunbathing, fishing, kayaking, and windsurfing. (Swimming is nominally prohibited, but enforcement is lax, and if you visit you'll likely see folks in the water. However, it's probably not a good idea to follow suit.) Gallagher Beach is easily accessed via the Shoreline Trail and is also adjacent to Tifft Nature Preserve. Free.

12 Tifft Street Pier, 1699 Fuhrmann Blvd. (Metro Bus 42). Inaugurated in 2014, the Tifft Street Pier begins as a pleasant bow-shaped boardwalk, beautifully landscaped with greenery and space for public art installations, that leads joggers and walkers along the Shoreline Trail directly onto the shore. But the main attraction is a floating pontoon that extends 130 feet (40 m) into the water, ending in a sleekly-designed, covered observation deck with unbeatable views over Lake Erie — a perfect spot for fishing, birdwatching or just relaxing on the waterfront. There's docking space for boats at the end, too.

13 Red Jacket Riverfront Park, foot of Smith St. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 23). The crown jewel of the Buffalo River Greenway, a partially completed chain of parks and green spaces along the shores of the Buffalo River, Red Jacket Riverfront Park was established in 1997 on four acres (1.6 ha) of reclaimed industrial land in The Valley. A hundred years ago, the scene at the foot of Smith Street was dominated by railroad tracks, trains, industrial facilities, and freighters plying their way up and down the river, but the only legacy of that period left today are a couple of railroad bridges and the foundation of a traffic control tower that was demolished in the 1980s. What Red Jacket Riverfront Park does have is plenty of shady spots for fishing and picnicking, great views of the inland end of Elevator Alley (including the quarter-mile-long (400-m) Concrete-Central Elevator, Buffalo's largest), walking trails, and a boggy wetland area that's reminiscent of what was here before the encroachment of industry. Also present in the park is a monument to its namesake, a Seneca Indian chief and orator who eloquently plead his people's case before the U.S. Senate and received a medal from President Washington in return.

In addition to those listed above, South Buffalo is also home to a number of smaller parks. Many of them are part of the Buffalo River Greenway, an "emerald necklace" of small parks and green spaces along the shores of the Buffalo River. Aside from Thomas Higgins Riverfront Park and Seneca Bluffs, both listed below, and the aforementioned Red Jacket Riverfront Park, the Buffalo River Greenway includes 16 Mutual Park, located at the foot of Hamburg Street in the Old First Ward and boasting a neighborhood historical museum, a riverfront promenade and small amphitheater, and the best views of Elevator Alley you can get outside of a boat, as well as 17 Buffalo RiverFest Park, which, as its name implies, is the setting for a three-day celebration of Buffalo's waterfront history each June.

Other parks in South Buffalo include 18 Conway Park, a pleasant expanse of ball fields, playgrounds and open lawns on the former site of the Ohio Basin, a vital link in the Old First Ward's 19th-century labyrinth of ship berths and canals, Seneca Indian Park, covered above, and 19 Heacock Park, a tiny Olmsted park whose significance lies not in its amenities but in its importance to Olmsted's design, as the northern hub of South Buffalo's parkway network and planned nexus with the northern parkways.

20 Thomas F. Higgins Riverfront Park, 154 Bailey Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 15, 16, 19 or 23). Named for a former county sheriff native to South Buffalo, this 3½-acre (1.4-ha) park is located on the Bailey Peninsula, at the junction of Cazenovia Creek and the Buffalo River on the west side of Bailey Avenue (parking is at the northwest corner of Bailey and McKinley Parkway; a footpath leads over the creek to the peninsula). Along with the Seneca Bluffs upstream, Higgins Riverfront Park is different from the other elements of the Buffalo River Greenway in that the site was never used for heavy industry, being located too far upstream for freighters to go and away from any railroad tracks. Today, it's a wetland habitat for the type of wildlife that frequented the area prior to urbanization, such as fox, snapping turtle, beaver, white-tailed deer, and birds such as kingfisher and great blue heron. At the bank of the river there's a kayak launch and some nice places for fishermen to cast their lines, or you can take it all in while strolling along one of the manicured walking trails. (updated Dec 2017)

21 Seneca Bluffs Natural Habitat Park, Seneca St. at Pomeroy St. (Metro Bus 15 or 19). An expanse of meadows, wetlands and forests on a natural floodplain of the Buffalo River just a few hundred feet (meters) from Thomas Higgins Riverfront Park, the land on which the Seneca Bluffs sit was a truck farm before going fallow in the middle 20th century. Today it's been redeveloped as a park and nature preserve very similar to its downstream counterpart. The Seneca Bluffs are not only a haven for wildlife but also a great place for fishing — particularly walleye, which teem in this stretch of the river. Walking trails crisscross the greenery, but otherwise it's just you and nature. Free.

22 Tifft Nature Preserve, 1200 Fuhrmann Blvd. (Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-825-6397. W-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su noon-4PM. Operated by the Buffalo Museum of Science, Tifft Nature Preserve is 264 acres (106 ha) of greenery that serves as an important wetland habitat for native wildlife such as beaver, fox, turtle, deer, and 264 species of native and migratory waterfowl. George Washington Tifft's dairy farm was later used as a transshipment terminal for the Lehigh Valley Railroad and then as a garbage dump; by the time it became a nature preserve in 1976, it had already "rewilded" on its own to a great degree. The preserve has been thoroughly cleaned up since the days of heavy industry, and today the nature trails and wildlife viewing stations at Tifft are one of the best ways for Buffalonians to get "back to nature" without leaving the city limits. The 75 acres (30 ha) of freshwater cattail marsh are one of Western New York's largest natural expanses of this type of ecosystem. Fishing on Lake Kirsty is popular in the summer, as are guided nature walks; in winter, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are on offer. The Makowski Visitors' Center is open all year. Donation.

24 Our Lady of Seneca Street Shrine, 847 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23). An odd sight to see amongst the restored warehouses, quirky restaurants, and trendy craft distilleries of Larkinville, this roadside shrine was built around 1950 by local barber Joseph Battaglia, inspired by a vision he had of the Virgin Mary several years earlier. In the ensuing years, Our Lady of Seneca Street has attracted the attention of local Catholic devotees, who still deliver prayers to the Blessed Mother by mail (the postal service drops them in the adjacent mail slot), the area preservationist community (who sprung into action to save the shrine when Battaglia's former barber shop — now the parking lot to its rear — was razed in the late 1980s), and dramatist Tom Dudzick, whose 2009 play Miracle on South Division Street was based on Battaglia's vision and its aftermath. (updated Aug 2019)

The Outer Harbor has become Buffalo's festival venue of choice, with many events previously packed like sardines into places like Canalside or the streets of North Buffalo (respectively, the Buffalo Irish Festival and the Galbani Italian Festival) have relocated to this wide-open lakeside space.

However, by far the most interesting festival venues in South Buffalo can be found in Elevator Alley, where many of the old grain silos have been ingeniously redeveloped into innovative spaces. 1 Silo City is the larger of these: a trio of grain elevators on Childs Street (the American, Perot Malting and Marine "A" Elevators) which, after having been abandoned for almost half a century beforehand, reopened in 2012 to a growing schedule of concerts, guided tours, activities, and events. Hot on Silo City's heels in late 2014 came 2 RiverWorks, the product of an $18-million restoration of the Grange League Federation Elevator complex on Ganson Street offering indoor and outdoor rock climbing, a zipline, performance space, a variety of sports, and — above all — two regulation-size ice rinks that play host every year to the Labatt Blue Pond Hockey Tournament.

Old Neighborhood St. Patrick's Day Parade. Held every year since 1994 on the Saturday before March 17 by the Valley Community Association, the Old Neighborhood St. Patrick's Day Parade lacks the massive scale and some of the glitz and glamour of its better-known counterpart on Delaware Avenue. But it more than makes up for that with tradition — its route along O'Connell and Hamburg Streets, South Park Avenue, and Elk and Smith Streets approximates that of the original St. Patrick's Day parades through Buffalo's traditionally Irish neighborhoods. Like its counterpart, the Old Neighborhood Parade features step dancing, over 100 floats, and plenty of Irish joie de vivre, but there's more of an emphasis on homegrown community pride here in the Old First Ward and The Valley. Also, after the parade, the 2 Valley Community Center hosts a lively "Irish Hooley" where music is played, corned beef and cabbage and other traditional Irish foods are served, and the beer flows freely.

Buffalo River Fest. Every June since 2000, the Valley Community Association, in conjunction with Rigidized Metals Corporation and the Erie Canal Harbor Development Corporation, has held the Buffalo River Fest. Since 2009, this celebration of the history of Buffalo's waterfront has been held at Buffalo RiverFest Park, a lovely new green space located at the foot of Chicago Street in the Old First Ward, adjacent to the Buffalo River. Events during this three-day festival include a local artists' and artisans' show, a beer garden, rides on the historic fireboat Edward M. Cotter ($10 per person), the Rigidized Metals River Regatta, live music, and a fishing contest. On display also are historical exhibits with an accent on the grain elevators, shipyards, and other waterfront industrial facilities that drove Buffalo's economy in earlier times; a historic walking tour of the Cobblestone District, Elevator Alley, and Canalside is held annually. Food and refreshments are available.

Buffalo Niagara Blues Festival. A premier destination for "fans of industrial relics and the hottest blues bands in the area" (in the words of Buffalo Rising), the Buffalo Niagara Blues Festival was inaugurated in mid-July 2014 with an all-day free concert at Silo City. Spearheaded by the Western New York Blues Society, a lineup of about half a dozen blues, jazz, soul, and Cajun singers and bands played — a mix of nationally famous stars and local acts. Also onsite are food trucks and merchandise vendors of various descriptions.

South Buffalo Italian Festival. By contrast with the much larger Italian Festival in Niagara Square, South Buffalo's little Italian-American community has its own day in the sun in mid-August at South Park, on the lawn in front of the Botanical Gardens. The South Buffalo Italian Festival features delicious food from Francesca's, Ilio DiPaolo's, and other Italian restaurants in South Buffalo and the Southtowns, as well as free-flowing Italian beer and wine. There are activities galore, too — you can play bocce ball while listening to local bands play live, and for the kids there's face painting, jugglers, and other fun stuff. Proceeds from the festival go to South Buffalo Alive to benefit a variety of neighborhood improvement projects.

Buffalo Irish Festival. The Buffalo Irish Festival has taken place at various locations downtown for 31 years running; as of 2016 it seems to have found a permanent home at the Outer Harbor. These three days of revelry in late August ring with performances of traditional Irish folk music, step-dancing and theatrical productions, and full of shops and stands selling Irish-made handicrafts and imported food and drink. Genealogical experts are on hand to guide those interested in tracing family roots, raffles and souvenirs are offered, and Sunday Mass is conducted in both English and Gaelic.

Together with nearby Canalside, the historic industrial waterways of South Buffalo are ground zero for the kayaking craze that's hit the Buffalo area.

3 Elevator Alley Kayak (At Mutual Park; Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-997-7925. Hours vary seasonally. Elevator Alley Kayak is not only easily the most reasonably priced of the myriad new kayak rental outfits that have popped up in Buffalo, but their staff is also a strong contender for the most helpful — they're as adept at advising visitors on the practical side of kayaking as they are at pointing out the landmarks along the Buffalo River — and Mutual Park presents a much less daunting scenario for the novice kayaker, with only a small step down from the launch into the boat. Once on board, you're free to paddle around the river and harbor at your leisure for however long you're reserved the boat (but do make sure not to overstay your reservation; they tend to get prickly otherwise). However, if you prefer, you can also opt for a slate of scheduled guided tours that focus on either Buffalo's industrial history or the natural environment that's beginning to reclaim a place along area waterways, presented by the staff in conjunction with Explore Buffalo or the Audubon Society and the Western New York Land Conservancy, respectively. And if you leave your Elevator Alley Kayak session hooked on this hot new pastime, you can check out their retail shop in the historic Barrel Factory two blocks away on Vandalia Street. Single kayak $25/2 hours or $40/4 hours (4 hour rate available M-F only); tandem kayak $45/2 hours. (updated Oct 2016)

4 Buffalo Party Boats, 301 Ohio St. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42), ☏ +1 716-800-7543. Check website for departures schedule. Though an outing with Buffalo CycleBoats is really more of a "booze cruise" than a sightseeing tour like those that populate the rest of this section, it's also a unique and fun way to get out on the water among the imposing monoliths of Elevator Alley. These 15-seat, pedal-powered craft offer two-hour jaunts along the Buffalo River, past Canalside, and through other area waterways, with an onboard bar (BYOB) and lively music to help the good times roll. And there's a "cheater motor" on the boat to do the work for you if you get tired. Reservations are strongly recommended: they're fully refundable if cancelled 10 days or more in advance, or you'll get a voucher for a future cruise if you cancel three to nine days in advance (or if they cancel on you due to inclement weather). $40 per person, $562.50 to charter the entire boat (for groups of 8 or more only). (updated Jul 2019)

5 Buffalo River History Tours (Metro Rail: Erie Canal Harbor), ☏ +1 716-796-4556. Buffalo River Tour departs daily 10:30AM, 12:30PM, 2:30PM, 4:30PM & 5:30PM, Silo City tour daily 11:30AM, Silos and Stemships Tour daily 2PM, harbor cruises daily 12:30PM, 2PM & 3:30PM; season runs May-Oct. Choose your own adventure with this boat tour outfit operating from the Central Wharf at Canalside. The classic Buffalo River Tour aboard the River Queen leaves five times daily, destination Elevator Alley: you'll feel the wind whip through your hair as you listen to the captain recount the history of the grain elevators and their contribution to the huge importance of Buffalo Harbor in the 19th and 20th centuries. Other tours include the Silo City Tour, which also offers a brief walking tour inside three of the grain elevators themselves, and the Silos and Steamships Tour for a close-up look at the SS Columbia, which at the time of its retirement in 1991 was the last of the old passenger steamers that once plied the Great Lakes. For something a bit less in-depth, non-narrated one-hour cruises around the harbor and Canalside are offered on a separate boat. Buffalo River Tour $23, children $12; harbor cruise $15, children $10; all other tours $33, children $18. (updated Jan 2019)

6 Grand Lady, RiverWorks, 359 Ganson St. (Metro Bus 14 or 16), ☏ +1 716-873-4630. May-Oct, check website for schedule. The Grand Lady is an 80-foot cruise ship that's been offering scheduled cruises and private charters since 1998, first on the upper Niagara River from their former home at Rich Marina in Black Rock, and since 2017 of Elevator Alley from RiverWorks. Passengers on the Grand Lady have their choice of itineraries: the Buffalo River and adjacent areas of Lake Erie are the focus of 90-minute narrated afternoon sightseeing cruises (some departures include a three-course plated lunch; see schedule); dinner cruises are a longer (2½-hour) more elaborate affair with live entertainment, a cash bar, and an elegant three-course meal; craft beer-themed cruises and evening casual cruises are also offered. The schedule is variable, but in general it features one to two of both types of cruise weekly; it's recommended you reserve as early as possible. The Grand Lady sails rain or shine.

8 Lakeside Complex (along Fuhrmann Boulevard between the Bell Slip and the Queen City Landing site; Metro Bus 42). Opened in 2019, this 20-acre (8-ha) park right at the center of the Outer Harbor action is the destination of choice on the Buffalo waterfront for the more active visitor. The Lakeside Complex features a grassy lawn perfect for a pickup soccer or baseball match, a pleasant bike-ped trail along its outer perimeter, and — the pièce de résistance — an exciting mountain-bike obstacle course with loops, a pump track, and rock and tube hazards for the kind of experience you definitely won't find on the Shoreline Trail or any of the on-street bikeways around town. (updated Aug 2019)

Pickleball. Larkin Square's retro quirkiness is a great part of its appeal — and one of the best expressions of that whimsy are the two 9 pickleball courts located just off the rear of the square, behind the Kamman Building. A popular recreation for visitors as well as workers in the nearby office buildings who want to blow off steam after a long workday cooped up at their desk, pickleball is an old-time sport that's sort of a cross between badminton, volleyball, and ping-pong. You can play on the courts for free, on a first-come-first-served basis, and paddles and plastic whiffleballs are stored in a basket beside the courts (don't forget to return them after you're done). Those who want to brush up on the rules can take a look at the Larkin Square website, or just read the back of your paddle — they're printed right on them.

Queen City Roller Girls, RiverWorks, 359 Ganson St (Metro Bus 14 or 16), toll-free: +1-888-740-7274. This is not your father's rollerderby — far from the WWE wrestling-style campy sports entertainment of old, this is a fast-paced, hard-hitting sport that's been exciting Buffalo fans since 2006. The Queen City Roller Girls is a league of four teams which battle it out each year for the Queen City Cup, but it also fields an all-star "travelling team" that hosts other squads from around the Women's Flat Track Derby Association, of which they've been a member since 2010. After spending the previous eight years playing at the Rainbow Rink in North Tonawanda, since the 2015 season the Queen City Roller Girls' home turf has been at RiverWorks, which boasts the only purpose-built rollerderby track in the country (not to mention a 20-foot HiDef LCD screen scoreboard that's bigger than the Jumbotron at KeyBank Center). The season runs from February to June; tickets are cheap and games are family-friendly.

If you're a golfer in Buffalo, you're in the right neighborhood. South Buffalo contains two of the city's four golf courses, where you can hit the links amid a setting of impeccably manicured greenery designed by the United States' foremost landscape architect.

10 Cazenovia Park Golf Course, 1 Willink Ave. (Metro Bus 14 or 15), ☏ +1 716-823-1517. Daily 6AM-5PM. Secluded at the southeast end of the Olmsted park of the same name, Cazenovia Park Golf Course is the larger and better-maintained of South Buffalo's two golf courses. An easy, flat course perfect for beginners, golfers at Cazenovia play in a simple but extremely pleasant setting, with nice wide fairways and hazards that mostly consist of the huge shade trees that are peppered here and there throughout the course. As well, Cazenovia Creek, which bisects the course through the middle, serves as a water hazard on the 3rd and 9th holes. Cazenovia is a nine-hole course, but those who want a full 18-hole round can play the course through twice as a discounted price: each hole has two separate tees, making for a distinctive experience for each go-round. Cart rental is available — not that you'd need one, this course is easy to walk — and there's a putting and chipping green and a snack bar. Weekday green fee $9 (9 holes) and $12 (18 holes), weekends $11 (9 holes) and $15 (18 holes).

11 South Park Golf Course, 2535 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16 or 42), ☏ +1 716-609-2004. Tu noon-9PM, all other days 6:30AM-9PM. Built in 1915 on the site of South Park's Meadow, South Park is an odd little nine-hole golf course — there's seemingly no rhyme or reason to its layout, and its small size makes for a cramped, tight-off-the-tee scenario on many holes. Still, this is a pleasant course with a great pro shop and an impeccably beautiful landscape courtesy of the great Frederick Law Olmsted. The course doesn't look like much of a challenge at first glance, but don't be fooled — South Park Lake makes for a formidable water hazard on many of the holes. There's a driving range and putting green for practice, and as at Cazenovia, you can play through the course twice at a discounted rate if you want a full 18 holes of golf. $11 for 9 holes; $14 for 18 holes.

RiverWorks, 359 Ganson St. (Metro Bus 14 or 16), toll-free: +1-844-749-2267. See website for open skating and skate & shoot schedule. Skating $5, children 10 and under free; skate & shoot $10, children 10 and under $5 (bring your own equipment).

12 Timothy J. Burvid Ice Rink, 25 Cazenovia St. (Metro Bus 14 or 15), ☏ +1 716-825-9503. Sep-Mar: Open skate M 1PM-3PM, Th 6PM-8PM, F Sa 7PM-9PM, Su 2PM-4PM; closed Apr-Aug. $3, $2 for Buffalo residents, $1 for seniors or children under 18 who are Buffalo residents.

13 Seneca Buffalo Creek Casino, 1 Fulton St. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42), ☏ +1 716-299-1100, toll-free: +1-877-8-SENECA (736322). Daily 24 hours. Located in the historic Cobblestone District and convenient to downtown and the waterfront, the brand-new, $130-million permanent home of the Seneca Buffalo Creek Casino opened with great fanfare in August 2013, and was expanded four years later to the tune of an additional $40 million. Today, over 3 million people a year flock here to try their luck on over 1,100 slot machines and 36 table games, both on the main casino floor and in the exclusive High Limit Room. If you get hungry, choose from four bars and restaurants onsite: the rowdy Stixx Sports Bar with pub grub and local brews on tap, the brand new B Lo Bar, light casual dining at The Creek, and a satellite location of the upscale Western Door Steakhouse that has proven a huge draw at the Niagara Falls Seneca casino, whose second-floor dining room features panoramic views over Elevator Alley and the downtown skyline.

With the emergence of the Cobblestone District as a hip cluster of bars in the shadow of the KeyBank Center and Canalside, plus a growing slate of offerings around the Outer Harbor, the live entertainment scene in South Buffalo has exploded in size.

14 Buffalo Irish Center, 245 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-825-9535. Aside from the scads of Irish-American not-for-profit groups who have their home offices here (such as the Gaelic-American Athletic Association and Rince na Tiarna Irish Dancers), the Buffalo Irish Center also includes a pub which, every Friday and Saturday night, plays host to live music featuring local bands of diverse genres — everything from country to hard rock to Dixieland jazz. For those in the mood for something more Irish, head down to a seisiún if you're in town at the right time: held on the third Sunday of each month, these hoedowns of traditional music, dancing, and storytelling feature Guinness on tap and plenty of merriment.

15 Buffalo Iron Works, 49 Illinois St. (Metro Bus 6, 8, 14, 16, or 42; Metro Rail: Erie Canal Harbor), ☏ +1 716-200-1893. Five nights a week, this hip Cobblestone District bar hosts live music in an intimate yet appropriately gritty setting, all exposed ducts and rough brick. Shows here split the difference between major national touring groups and local acts playing rock, country, and acoustic music.

16 Helium Comedy Club, 30 Mississippi St. (Metro Bus 6, 8, 14, 16, or 42), ☏ +1 716-853-1211. W Th 4:30PM-10PM, F Sa 4:30PM-midnight. Buffalo's scrappy clique of stand-up comics, whose acts were long shoehorned between local bands at random bars scattered across town, finally have a place to call their own and has played host to greats like Charlie Murphy, Dave Attell, Brian Posehn, and, on opening night, Rob Schneider. This is a small club, which cuts both ways: the intimate atmosphere is perfect for comedy shows and it's pretty much impossible to get a bad seat, but they pack folks in like sardines (especially when a big name is in town). Also, you're required to order a minimum of two food or drink items from the bar.

Though it's been outshined since the late 20th century by the more suburban-flavored Abbott Road corridor, "downtown South Buffalo" still boasts its share of shops, bars and eateries.

1 LADD Thrift Shop, 2280 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-825-7774. M-Th Sa 10AM-3PM. Shoppers at this thrift shop know their money is going to a good cause: "Living Arrangements for the Developmentally Disabled" is the acronym of the charitable organization that runs it. Though prices here are among the best you'll find at any local secondhand shop, the selection at LADD — which consists of the usual thrift-store fare such as books, kitchenware, toys, Franklin Mint-style decorative knickknacks, and above all, clothes — is usually unimpressive. It's worth trying your luck, though: interesting items do happen along occasionally. If you see something you like, don't delay, because good stuff goes quickly. (updated Jan 2019)

2 Moria Piercing and Jewelry, 2118 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-777-4821. Tu-Sa noon-8PM. Not just South Buffalo's favorite piercing studio, with all the relaxing vibes and attention to cleanliness and professionalism you need to set your mind at ease, but also a place to get your hands on some of the finest-quality and most creative body jewelry in town. The selection is not what you would call massive, but it's definitely well-curated, with a house style that's based on simple but elegant designs inspired by the shapes of nature: gold, titanium, and semiprecious gems forged into flowers, crescents, starbursts, helixes, even cute little bumblebees. (updated Aug 2019)

Struggle Compound, 1841 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-931-5046. "Clothing and beard care", more specifically, rough and ready streetwear in sizes ranging from small to 6X. At The Struggle, you can shop for some really nice designer jeans, t-shirts, hoodies, polo shirts and tracksuits from well-known urban stylehouses like Akoo, Crooks & Castles, Hustle Gang, and more. As for beard care, you've got a relatively modest but decent quality selection of trimmers and beard oils and butters to choose from.

3 Bottle Rocket Beer Reserve, 2182 Seneca St (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-725-6789. Su M noon-6PM, Th F 5PM-midnight, Sa noon-midnight. Located in the beautifully remodeled Shea's Seneca building, Bottle Rocket is part bar, part South Buffalo's answer to Village Beer Merchant. Here you can pick up four- or six-packs (or mix-and-match if you like) of a changing variety of craft beers sold out of a couple of vintage wooden bookcases and an old locker (repurposed from the defunct Public School 77 on the West Side) in a corner of the room. As with the selections at the bar, locally-brewed beers are largely eschewed in favor of harder-to-find options sourced from breweries elsewhere — so if you're on the hunt for something obscure, put this place on your list. (updated Jan 2019)

4 Section 8 Hobbies, 2243 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-824-1049. M 1PM-6PM, Tu-F 11AM-8PM, Sa 9AM-6PM. Section 8 claims — believably — to boast Western New York's largest selection of model kits and supplies. Stop in to check out model sets of all kinds — from trains to kites to cars to airplanes to rockets — or peruse shelf after shelf stocked with accessories and supplies. If there's something you need that you can't find in the store, the staff can virtually always order it — and if you're headed back home, they'll ship their products worldwide (exceptions are spray paint, enamel and lacquers, which can be sent to points within the continental U.S. only). If you're selling rather than buying, Section 8 will pay a fair price for model collections of all kinds. (updated Jan 2019)

5 South Buffalo Wheelhouse, 1872 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-322-7148. Tu-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-4PM, shorter hours in winter. If you're in the market for a brand new bike, the friendly folks at this Seneca Street bike shop will be glad to sell you one, but wouldn't you rather be the proud new owner of a gently used vintage bike from the 1980s or '90s, lovingly restored and sold at a decent price? And if you already own a bike and are just looking for a tune-up, you're in luck: the real specialty here is expert repairs and installations done with a smile (check their website for their "menu of services"). Best of all, the bevy of discounts you get by becoming a member makes the $135 annual fee worth it even if you're not planning to stay in town for an extended time. (updated Jan 2019)

The latest phase of Buffalo's ongoing renaissance has seen developers set their sights on the precincts of South Buffalo closest to downtown, notably the Cobblestone District and the Ohio Street corridor. As that gets off the ground, a bevy of stores and other attractions for visitors will surely follow; however, as of 2023, there's not much here for shoppers.

6 Mazurek's Bakery, 543 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 18), ☏ +1 716-853-7833. M-F 8AM-5:30PM, Sa 8AM-3PM. This old-school Polish bakery has been open since 1933 and absolutely looks the part, from the humble yet proud exterior to the staff who know their customers and their products by name. Speaking of, these home-baked bundles of goodness sport real, old-fashioned flavors, far from the sanitized stuff you'll find in supermarkets. Crispy, golden-fried, sugar-dusted chruściki is their most famous offering, but you'll also find delicious Polish-style cheesecake, fresh pączki baked Thursday through Saturday, seeded rye bread that's the closest thing to the genuine New York article you can find in Buffalo, and doughnuts that drive folks to reverie. (updated Jan 2019)

7 Snowy Owl Kombucha, 65 Vandalia St. (at The Barrel Factory; Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-218-8809. F 4-8PM, Sa noon-8PM. Snowy Owl is a "kombucha production studio" that opened in September 2016 as one of the inaugural tenants of The Barrel Factory's "makers' market" selling artisanally produced goods. Snowy Owl makes theirs in a sustainable manner using 100% organic, fair trade-certified tea leaves. On Fridays and Saturdays, thirsty customers descend on their brewery-cum-tasting room-cum boutique to sample one of about a half-dozen plain and flavored kombuchas (also available is a "blend your own" option, where you can go to town on Snowy Owl's own juicer and your choice of fruits) — either imbibe at the bar or bring your own growler. (updated Jan 2019)

The industrial precincts of South Buffalo have lately asserted themselves as the epicenter of Buffalo's incipient craft spirits scene. Along with Larkinville, the Cobblestone District and the Old First Ward are where it's at.

Hartman's Distilling Co., 55 Chicago St. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42), ☏ +1 716-551-6313. Tu-Th 4-11PM, F 3PM-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su 11AM-7PM. So you fell in love with Hartman's expertly-distilled craft spirits in the tasting room or on a distillery tour and now you're keen on taking some of this goodness home with you. You're in luck: they do retail sales too! The product line is short and sweet: choose from oak barrel-aged rye whiskey (bold-flavored with a hint of spice), gin (light and dry with citrus notes), vodka (smooth with a crisp finish), and of course, their signature bourbon. (updated Feb 2020)

8 Lakeward Spirits, 65 Vandalia St. (at The Barrel Factory; Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-541-1454. W Th M-10PM, F M-11PM, Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-6PM. The Barrel Factory is where you'll find the production facility, tasting room, and retail outlet for this craft distillery where the theme — stewardship of Buffalo's local water resources — is reflected in everything from the company's name, to their partnership with Buffalo Niagara Riverkeeper in developing eco-friendly, conservation-minded water use policies for the distillery, to their signature spirit, "Grain Canyon" vodka, named in homage to the historic grain elevators that line the Buffalo River just a stone's throw from here. (updated Jan 2019)

9 Lockhouse Distillery, 41 Columbia St (Metro Bus 14, 16, or 42; Metro Rail: Erie Canal Harbor), ☏ +1 716-768-4898. Tu-F noon-midnight, Sa 4PM-midnight. It was "An Idea So Crazy, It Just Might Work": in 2013, Lockhouse was the first distillery to open in Buffalo since the end of Prohibition. Made entirely with locally-sourced ingredients, the spirits crafted here run the gamut from barrel-aged gin, to a coffee liqueur produced in conjunction with Public Espresso, to their original flagship product and still their most popular offering: a vodka distilled from grapes grown at Freedom Run Winery in Lockport. Lockhouse's products can be purchased to take home from their small retail shop or else sampled in the form of topnotch craft cocktails in their rustic yet classy tasting room. (updated Jan 2019)

Pressure Drop Brewing in the Barrel Factory; see below.

10 Elevator Alley Kayak, 65 Vandalia St. (At the Barrel Factory; Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-997-7925. Hours vary seasonally. If you've just gotten back from a paddling trip on the Buffalo River with these guys and you're still thirsty for more, make the trip a few blocks over to The Barrel Factory, where they operate a retail store selling a wide selection of new and used kayaks, plus gear such as drybags, sunscreen and sun hats, and Buffalo- and kayaking-themed T-shirts and souvenirs. (updated Oct 2016)

As a shopping street, South Park Avenue is the happy medium between the historic but largely deserted Seneca Street business district, and the somewhat more upscale boutiques of Abbott Road.

11 Side by Side Antiques, 26 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-864-0130. M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa 9:30AM-1PM. Side by Side is headquartered at an unassuming little shop at the north end of Abbott Road, but don't be fooled: this place is a powerhouse, stocking a huge and wide-ranging selection of antiques sold both in-store and through a thriving eBay business for fair and honest prices. Specialties include an amazing selection of hard-to-find coins, stylish vintage jewelry, and furniture and decorative items with a tendency toward Roycroft pieces and other Americana. Side by Side also offers free appraisal, and will buy your antiques as well — anything from single pieces to entire estates. (updated Jan 2019)

12 Habitat for Humanity ReStore, 1675 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-852-6607. Tu-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 9AM-6PM. Wherein Habitat for Humanity operates what basically amounts to a huge thrift store for furniture and housewares: the shelves are stocked with gently used (and some new!) chairs and tables, sofas, bedroom sets, lamps, cabinetry, doors and windows, building materials, and appliances donated to them by the public. Best of all, this place operates with very little overhead — it's staffed by volunteers, so almost all the money you pay goes to help Habitat for Humanity build new homes and rehab old ones to help out the less fortunate. (updated Jan 2019)

13 Logo Imprinted Sportswear, 645 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15 or 18), ☏ +1 716-855-2071. M-F 9AM-5PM. Founded in 1980 and now located on Seneca Street in Larkinville, Logo Imprinted Sportswear's main business is custom-producing jerseys and caps for local sports teams. However, even if you're not on a team, they'll also screenprint a design of your choice on t-shirts, sweatshirts, and even embroidery.

14 Buffalo Distilling Company, 860 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23). Tu Th 4:30PM-9PM, F 4:30PM-10PM, Sa noon-8PM. Though its official website traces the business's roots back to 1883, when the original company of the same name was founded by a pair of German immigrants on the Near East Side, today's relaunched Buffalo Distilling Company got its start in a Wyoming County barn in 2012. Their Larkinville retail shop and tasting room are open four days a week to fans of the "One Foot Cock" (no snickering please; it's named after the rooster weathervane on top of said barn) line of small-batch craft spirits. Distillery tours are also offered; get in touch on their Facebook page for details. (updated Jan 2019)

15 Flying Bison Brewing Company, 840 Seneca St (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-873-1557. Retail store open Th-Sa noon-8PM. The first in a long line of local craft breweries, and the heirs of a proud tradition of Buffalo brewing that never quite recovered after Prohibition, Flying Bison's 2000 launch marked the first time beer was brewed in Buffalo for commercial purposes since Iroquois closed up shop twenty-eight years prior. Despite an increasingly crowded field of competitors, they're still giants on the local scene: "Aviator Red" is Buffalo's best-selling red ale, the Vienna-style "Rusty Chain" is sweet, smooth and yeasty, and seasonal offerings such as the holiday favorite "Blizzard Bock" abound. (updated Jan 2019)

16 Winkler & Samuels, 500 Seneca St., Suite 115 (Metro Bus 15 or 18), ☏ +1 716-235-8121. Tu W 11AM-7PM, Th F 11AM-8PM, Sa noon-7PM. Wine lovers, welcome to your Larkinville happy place: owner and certified sommelier Melissa Winkler has assembled an extensive, well-organized, and expertly curated selection of wines that draw heavily from small-scale vintners who emphasize sustainable production techniques. In other words, this is miles from the same-old same-old that you'll find at the supermarket or ordinary bottle shops. If you're new to the wine world, Winkler & Samuels usually holds two or three "wine education classes" per month (see website for details), complete with copious free samples! (updated Jan 2019)

Larkin Market (at Larkin Square; Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-362-2665. Th 4PM-7:30PM, Jul-Sep. In the words of Larkinville executive Leslie Zemsky, the Larkin Market is all about "social shopping": a place where you can not only shop but meet up with friends, have a bite to eat, relax to the tune of live light acoustic music performed by local bands, and get to know your friendly neighborhood artists and artisans. Offerings run the gamut from vintage fashions, bath products, farm-fresh produce, artisanal foods, photo prints of Buffalo scenery, and even full meals courtesy of area restaurants and food trucks. Beer, wine, and gourmet food tastings are hosted frequently. (updated Jan 2019)

The closest thing South Buffalo has to an Elmwood Avenue, the section of Abbott Road adjacent to and north of Cazenovia Park is densely packed with a variety of shops and restaurants, many with an Irish theme (in keeping with its designation as Buffalo's Irish Heritage District). South of there, it takes on a more spread-out, suburban feel.

17 Burkey's Sportswear, 904 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-826-1849. M-F 10:30AM-4:30PM, Sa 10:30AM-3PM. With an inventory composed in equal measures of jerseys, activewear, t-shirts, and other apparel on the one hand, and sporting goods of all descriptions on the other hand, Burkey's is a friendly neighborhood shop that's equipped to attend to the needs of the athletic-minded community of Buffalo. Locally owned and operated, Burkey's demonstrates its engagement in the South Buffalo community with a range of locally-themed merchandise sold both in-store and at local events such as the South Buffalo Irish Feis and the Larkin Market, and its sponsorship of local amateur sports teams. (updated Jan 2019)

18 McKay's, 851 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-824-7900. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Th F till 9PM. Family-owned for over 45 years, the main order of the day at McKay's is work gear, specifically Carhartt brand: their gamut of jackets, cargo pants, coveralls, neon-colored high-visibility vests, tool bags, backpacks, and other accessories earned them Carhartt's Retailer of the Year award in 2006, as well as various brands of work shoes and boots, gloves, lab coats, and scrubs. But if you're looking for something more in the way of a souvenir, McKay's contribution to the Hibernian offerings in Buffalo's Irish Heritage District includes a range of sweatshirts featuring custom-made Irish embroidery designs produced right in-store. (updated Jan 2019)

19 Dog Ears Bookstore & Café, 688 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-823-2665. M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 11AM-3PM. Not only "a fun, funky place where the written word rules", but also a force for good in the community: the money you spend at the not-for-profit Dog Ears Bookstore goes to such good causes as community literacy workshops, children's reading programs, and donations to school libraries. But even if you're just here to buy books, this friendly, unpretentious mom-and-pop bookstore/café hybrid stocks titles for everyone, but especially young children. There's also a good selection of Irish literature (this being South Buffalo, after all) and works by local authors. (updated Jan 2019)

20 Empire Comics, 1069 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-382-8459. M Tu Th F 2PM-7PM, W noon-7PM. South Buffalo's comic book store of choice, but that's just the beginning of the story. At Empire Comics, the selection, while not quite measuring up to the gargantuan Queen City Bookstore in North Buffalo, comprises a surprising breadth of titles (mostly traditional superhero stuff, though you'll find some edgy graphic novels and the like here and there), especially given the modest size of the place, plus the usual figurines and other collectibles. But it's in the little touches where Empire shines: handpainted shelves, a TV behind the counter playing a loop of superhero movies, and a super friendly owner who sells T-shirts airbrushed with his own original art on the side. (updated Jan 2019)

21 KupKates, 956 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-828-2282. Su 10AM-4PM or by appointment. Kathleen Cunningham's is a small, cheerily-decorated neighborhood cupcake shop where the specialty is imaginatively conceived custom orders for weddings, parties, and other special occasions. But if you're just popping in for a quick bite on a Sunday morning or afternoon, KupKates does stock a selection of premade cupcakes to take home, scratch-made from premium ingredients, as well as cookies, pastry hearts, pies, and other treats. And if you're gluten-sensitive, you don't have to miss out: there's a selection of goodies for you too! (updated Jan 2019)

22 Ko-Ed Candies, 281 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-824-3489. M-Sa 10AM-7PM, early Oct through mid-May. Since 1947, the specialty at Ko-Ed has been sponge candy — homemade and dipped in your choice of milk or dark chocolate — and Buffalo sweet tooths (or is that "sweet teeth?") agree that this is some of the best you'll find anywhere. It's a bit pricey, but worth it. If that's not your sweet indulgence of choice, how about chocolate-covered popcorn (a distant second on the ranking of favorite products), other local specialties like Charlie Chaplins, or special novelties around the holidays? And if you're lucky enough to be in town in spring, stop by to take advantage of steep end-of-season discounts! (updated Jan 2019)

23 Park Edge Sweet Shoppe, 325 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-824-0228. M-F 10AM-4PM. Despite coming under new ownership a couple years back, Park Edge Sweet Shoppe is a real throwback, with the old 1950s-vintage recipes and ambience retained from the original even as new innovations have been added to the mix. Compared to Ko-Ed Candies down the road, the goods here are more diverse and more reasonably priced. Homemade sponge candy is indeed a specialty — unusually, it's sold here in narrow sticks, sort of like Kit Kat bars — but you'll also find other confections in dark, milk, white, and orange chocolate, rich butter toffee, candy apples, cookies (courtesy of Cookie Expressions), and even flowers and other non-edible gifts. (updated Jan 2019)

24 Tara Gift Shoppe, 250 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-825-6700. M-Sa 10AM-4PM. There's perhaps no shop that better encapsulates this neighborhood: the themes uniting Tara Gift Shoppe's wide-ranging inventory are split evenly between Ireland, Buffalo, and Irish Buffalo. Stop by if you like to pick up green-white-and-orange "South Buffalo Forever" t-shirts or green Bills or Sabres baseball hats, but Tara is at its best as a purveyor of authentic Irish imports of consistently high quality (prices can be high, but you get what you pay for). Jewelry comes in Celtic motifs, including some nice claddagh rings; stained glass, wind chimes, and decorative baubles feature Celtic tribal symbols and Irish crosses; fine Waterford china and crystalware abounds. (updated Jan 2019)

Since 1931, Seneca-Babcock has been the home of the Niagara Frontier Food Terminal, founded in 1931 by the Erie and Nickel Plate Railroads as an alternative to the congested Elk Market Terminal for wholesale produce vendors. Despite both the demise of the railroads and the rise of suburban-style supermarkets as the dominant option for grocery shoppers, the Niagara Frontier Food Terminal continues in operation and is today the home of a number of specialty food concerns, as well as the Clinton Bailey Farmers' Market.

25 Chateau Buffalo, 1500 Clinton St. #175 (at the Niagara Frontier Food Terminal; Metro Bus 2 or 19), ☏ +1 716-704-4671. Th-Sa 11AM-7PM. Chateau Buffalo is best known for locally-produced wines (as in right here in Buffalo, not the Finger Lakes or the Niagara Wine Trail), but in the same drab but well-stocked wine cellar-cum-warehouse at the Niagara Frontier Food Terminal they also make their own craft cider (under the brand name "Dancing Buffalo"; the German-style apfelwein is said to be especially tasty) and sell a range of other gourmet artisanal foods sourced from New York State producers, such as cheese, jams, jellies, and sausages. (updated Jan 2019)

Aside from what's at the Food Terminal, Seneca-Babcock is also where you'll find the famous...

26 Uncle Sam's Army Navy Outfitters, 1503 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15 or 19), ☏ +1 716-783-7667. M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 11AM-7PM. All your favorite new and used military surplus goods, now at a new location: as of 2019, the corner of Bailey and Seneca is where you'll find all the field jackets, pea coats, bandanas, Kevlar helmets, face masks, gas masks, backpacks, blankets, etc. etc. ad nauseam you could ever imagine. (A word to international visitors: some of the stuff Uncle Sam's sells, such as survival knives, mortar tubes, and the like, will probably earn you unwanted attention passing through Customs; use your judgment.) (updated Aug 2019)

1 Cantina 62, 2178 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-333-8226. Su-Th 10AM-10PM, F Sa 10AM-midnight. Its name may no longer be apropos — the place moved in 2019 from its former location on South Park Avenue (aka U.S. Route 62) to the Shea's Seneca building — but the tacos, nachos, burritos, and other classic Tex-Mex fare is still on point. Don't be fooled by a menu that seems run-of-the-mill at first blush: there are some interesting innovations to be found among the specialty tacos, such as Korean barbecue, Philly cheesesteak, and even a beef on weck taco dressed with horseradish slaw. The food is serviceably good though a bit bland, perfect for those who like Mexican cuisine but can't handle spice, and if you don't like Mexican cuisine, check out their selection of specialty mac and cheese bowls. It's all served up fast-casual style for reasonable prices in a cavernous space that gets loud when it gets crowded. $10-25. (updated Aug 2019)

2 Blackthorn Pub, 2134 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-825-9327. Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F Sa 11:30AM-11PM. As seen on the Food Network series Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives (Guy Fieri really liked the jalapeño tater tots). The food served at this prototypical South Buffalo Irish pub splits the difference between local standbys like beef on weck and chicken wings (both classic-recipe and Smitty-style), and Hibernian specialties such as corned beef and cabbage, shepherd's pie, and beer and cheddar soup. The Blackthorn is an old-school kind of place that doesn't look like much from the outside, but venture in and you'll find a friendly, welcoming ambience. However, service is often brusque, especially if you're seated at the bar rather than in the dining room. $15-40. (updated Jan 2019)

3 Francesca's, 2022 Seneca St (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-783-9595. Tu-Su 11AM-10PM. If the name of this place didn't clue you in to what kind of food is served here, the exterior sure will: this building screams "Italy" in the heart of Irish South Buffalo, from the bright orange stucco walls up to the red tile roof. Classic and contemporary fare with a local twist is the name of the game at Francesca's, served in an upscale, trattoria-style ambience: the "classic" half of the equation dominated among the main courses, a standard but well-executed roster of homestyle red-sauce favorites, while the "local twists" come into play with the appetizers, especially the house special "Unstuffed Hot Pepper Soup", an ingenious take on the local favorite where spicy Anaheim peppers come in a creamy broth made with ricotta cheese. The dining room is spacious yet intimate, but on summer nights the back patio is the place to be. $15-45. (updated Jan 2019)

The following pizzerias are located in the South Buffalo business district. Those who are interested in pizza delivery (as opposed to pickup) might want to also check listings in adjacent districts; local pizzerias will often deliver to several different neighborhoods of the city.

4 Emergency Pizza, 1870 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-362-8750. M-Th 11AM-2AM, F Sa 11AM-4AM, Su 11AM-midnight. (updated Jan 2019)

5 Wiseguys, 1965 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-826-8406. Su-W 11AM-11PM, Th-Sa 11AM-4AM. (updated Jan 2019)

6 Tops, 1989 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-824-1124. Daily 6AM-11PM. (updated Jan 2019)

7 South Buffalo Farmers' Market, Peter Crotty Casino, Cazenovia Park (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-851-5158. Jun-Sep: Su 10AM-2PM (no market on July 4 or first weekend in Sep). Wherein local farmers and artisans converge on Cazenovia Park on Sunday mornings offering up not only the usual array of fresh produce, meats, eggs, dairy products, and prepared foods, but also products such offbeat vendors as Chateau Buffalo with its craft wines and hard ciders, and the locally-themed photography of John Angelo. Unique among local farmers' markets, the South Buffalo Market also has food trucks on hand so you can munch on a snack while shopping, and live bands perform in front of the Crotty Casino most days. (updated Oct 2021)

If the pricier dining options directly inside the Seneca Buffalo Creek Casino don't appeal to you, there are cheaper eats across the street.

8 Ballyhoo, 211 South Park Ave (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42), ☏ +1 716-240-9901. Su-Th noon-midnight, F Sa noon-2AM. "Links and drinks" are the rule at Ballyhoo: the short but sweet menu consists entirely of a maddeningly creative range of house-made sausages like the "Curry Lamb Bam" (topped with the contrasting flavors of harissa and raita and served with tabbouleh on the side), the "Church Chicken" (seasoned with Old Bay and dressed with whole-grain mustard and celery and apple slaw), and the "Short Round" (ground Korean-style short rib flavored with ginger, garlic and scallions and topped with kimchi slaw and sambal aioli). A modest range of salads and soups are offered for sides, and ice cream sandwiches made with house-baked chocolate chip cookies make a delectable dessert. $15-25. (updated Jan 2019)

9 Duende, 85 Childs St. (At Silo City; Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-235-8380. Th F 3PM-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-6PM. The Buffalo River's towering grain elevators make a truly unique urban landscape, and if fine dining with them as a backdrop sounds like your cup of tea, Duende is the place for you. The menu is brief and changes weekly, but always features a selection of gourmet appetizers, bar snacks, and light summery fare, often with a Latin flair: the chipotle pork rouladen with chimichurri sauce, one of the most frequently-featured and best-liked specials, is a good example. Inconsistent service is a sore spot: it ranges from quick and efficient to glacially slow and friendly as can be to openly hostile, so don't catch these folks on a bad day. $15-30. (updated Jan 2019)

10 Labatt Brew House, 79 Perry St (Metro Bus 6, 8, 14, 16, 24 or 42; Metro Rail: Erie Canal Harbor), ☏ +1 716-314-0303. M-Th 11AM-1AM, F Sa 11AM-2AM, Su 11AM-midnight. The ground floor of the Labatt Brewing Company's U.S. home office is given over to a small brewery as well as "The Draft Room", a full-service bar and restaurant. There's nothing too outlandish on the menu, but this being Labatt, the selection of Canadian pub-grub specialties is unsurprisingly ample: the "poutine burger" is an interesting concoction, and they make a killer Montreal smoked meat platter. For dessert are a range of tasty cookies and pastries whipped up daily at Bakery 55 in the back of the restaurant. Every menu item is accompanied by a suggested beer pairing: represented on the list are not only the beers brewed onsite but also some selections from Labatt's sister brewery in Rochester, Genesee, plus other local craft beers. Order either at the bar or at one of several touch-screen kiosks, then take a number and your food will be delivered when ready. $15-35. (updated Jan 2019)

Resurgence Brewing, 55 Chicago St. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42), ☏ +1 716-768-6018. Tu-Th 3PM-11PM, F 3PM-midnight, Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-10PM. In keeping with the (in spite of everything) still blue-collar, salt-of-the-earth character of the surrounding neighborhood, the food menu at Resurgence's new Old First Ward taproom hews closely to familiar pub-grub standards. But in keeping with the spirit of the "new" Buffalo, it all comes with an upscale twist: witness, for example, the "RBC Burger", two Kindred Kreek beef patties topped with fried onion rings and slathered with Resurgence's own homemade "beer BBQ" sauce. But crowning the menu is a selection of wings that make up for with creativity what they lack in size: sauces include classic Buffalo-style, the "beer BBQ" sauce again, even a dill pickle wing with tzatziki! The execution is a little inconsistent, but feel free to take that with a grain of salt; they've only been open a month as of this writing. $15-35. (updated Aug 2019)

13 Carbone's, 568 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 18), ☏ +1 716-855-1749. Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight.

14 Ricota's, 206 Elk St. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-823-7636. M-Sa 10:30AM-10:45PM, Su 10:30AM-9:45PM.

15 Pete-n-Paul's Pockets, 2124 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16), ☏ +1 716-825-6655. M-Sa 10:30AM-7:30PM. Pull up to Pete-n-Paul's and you might think you're at an old-fashioned drive-in or snack bar, and you'd not be entirely wrong: there is indeed a variety of burgers, hot dogs, milkshakes and frozen treats on the menu. But appearances can be deceiving: the backbone of the menu is actually a long list of sandwiches wrapped in healthy, cholesterol-free pita bread (hence the "pockets" part of this place's name). Chicken souvlaki, Italian sausage, beef Stroganoff, and fried bologna are only a few of the delights available here. Elsewhere on the menu you'll see wraps, tacos, salads, and entrees including Greek souvlaki platters and a killer fish fry on Fridays. Service is fast, and the food is delicious and cheap: what's not to love? $5-10. (updated Jan 2019)

16 Wayside Family Restaurant, 2301 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16), ☏ +1 716-826-2279. Daily 7AM-11PM. Wayside has legions of rabidly loyal fans in South Buffalo, many of whom have been swearing by this place for decades and come so often the staff knows them by name. Why? Because, simply put, they serve diner food done right: classic, all-American comfort food; no frills, but service is lightning-fast and among the friendliest in town. There must be two or three dozen sandwiches on the menu to choose from, a build-your-own burger basket that's a hit with regulars, and a few nods to Buffalo's storied Greek diner tradition (all sandwiches, not just their delicious chicken and beef souvlaki, are available on pita bread for no extra charge). There's a modest selection of heartier dinners, too, including beef and turkey roasts, steak, stuffed porkchops, grilled or fried chicken, and a beer-battered fish fry every Friday. $10-25. (updated Jan 2019)

The following local chains have locations in The Triangle and on South Park Avenue. Descriptions of these restaurants can be found on the main Buffalo page.

17 Mighty Taco, 1039 McKinley Pkwy. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-939-2653. Su-Th 10AM-1AM, F Sa 10AM-2AM.

18 Chick-N-Pizza Works, 129 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-823-1300. Su-Th 11AM-10PM, F Sa 11AM-11PM.

19 Mineo's, 2154 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16), ☏ +1 716-800-2423. M-Th 11AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight, Su 11AM-10PM.

20 Mr. Submarine, 1977 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16), ☏ +1 716-826-0540. M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-10PM.

21 Tops, 1460 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-515-2050. Daily 6AM-midnight.

22 Charlie's Boatyard, 1111 Fuhrmann Blvd. (Metro Bus 42), ☏ +1 716-828-1600. M-Th 11AM-9PM, F Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 9AM-8PM. If you've been to Buffalo before, you may remember this place as Dug's Dive, who were famous for charging premium prices for the lake views from their dining room while cutting corners on food and service. Have things improved? Yes and no. The ambience has definitely been kicked up a notch (though you still won't feel out of place in shorts and boat shoes), and the menu is more considerate to those who don't like seafood (while there's plenty of the former to choose from, the best-loved options include the house special "Boatyard Burger" and the apple walnut salad). On the other hand, the food itself gets mixed reviews, and the service is, if anything, worse than before. Still, Charlie's is the only game in town on the Outer Harbor, and those views over the lake are pretty impressive. $20-45. (updated Jan 2019)

Larkinville has a variety of brick-and-mortar restaurants to choose from, listed here. However, when it comes to dining, doubtless the most well-known attraction in the neighborhood is Food Truck Tuesdays, where a revolving cast of about two dozen food trucks from Buffalo, as well as visitors from Rochester and elsewhere, descend on Larkin Square from 5PM to 8PM, May through October.

Chautauqua Café, 726 Exchange St., Suite 132 (At Larkin @ Exchange; Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-819-2880. M-F 7:30AM-2PM. In the first-floor atrium of the 4 Larkin @ Exchange building is where you'll find this pleasant full-service bistro-style dining room where the food is reasonably priced but delicious. The Chautauqua Café is open for breakfast, which features a menu of egg sandwiches as well as a self-serve Belgian waffle bar with a range of toppings, as well as lunch, where the menu changes weekly but features soups, hot sandwiches, deli-style sandwiches, and personal pizzas (your choice of two each) as well as a heartier entree and salad. Full lunch service ends at 2PM, but soup and salad continues to be available for an hour thereafter. $5-15. (updated Jan 2019)

23 Swan Street Diner, 700 Swan St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-768-1823. Tu-Su 7AM-3PM. Lunch breakers from the surrounding offices are welcome, but the menu at this fully restored 1937 Sterling Diner car aims squarely at the weekend brunch crowd. At first, Swan Street's menu seems like just the usual diner fare, but look a little closer and you'll notice just enough of a creative flourish to bring in the hipster foodies while staying accessible to Middle America. Southern influences abound: alongside the standards, biscuits and gravy are a hit at breakfast (which is served all day), while lunch options include a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich with sweet potato fries. Wash it down with a cup of locally-brewed Undergrounds Roastery coffee or an even-more-locally-brewed Flying Bison beer. Service is speedy, and the ambience has all of Larkinville's trademark retro quirkiness, but sky-high prices are a downside. $10-25. (updated Jan 2019)

24 Belt Line Brewery & Kitchen, 545 Swan St (Metro Bus 2, 15 or 18), ☏ +1 716-402-1756. Tu-Th noon-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight, Su 11:30AM-8PM. It's named in homage to the New York Central Railroad's commuter service, which ferried thousands of Buffalo working stiffs to and from their jobs daily until around the end of the First World War, and a bit of that hardworking blue-collar identity does carry over to the place's "hipster but accessible" ambience. But the menu is a different story. Small plates of upscale pub grub seem similar at first look to what other brewpubs around town offer, but look a little closer and you'll discover the perfect place in Buffalo to take your craft beer-loving friends who are vegan or have other special dietary needs: Chicago hot dogs and Italian sausage sandwiches come in convincing "Beyond Meat" iterations, and the "keto burger", dressed with guacamole, bacon, and Cheddar cheese, is a hit too. $15-25. (updated Aug 2019)

25 Hydraulic Hearth, 716 Swan St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-248-2216. Tu-Th 4:30-10PM, F Sa 4:30-11PM. The handsome and historic Hydraulics Hotel building (c. 1885) has been revamped as a gourmet bar and eatery where artisan brick-oven pizzas take center stage: the selection ranges from classics like margherita, sausage (sourced from Spar's in Black Rock), and pepperoni, to local favorites like Buffalo chicken, to innovations like pulled pork with radicchio slaw and a blend of cheddar and goat cheese. But it's in the appetizers that the true diversity of the Hydraulic Hearth's oeuvre comes out to shine: there's Swedish meatballs with lingonberry jam, matzo ball soup, a cheese and charcuterie plate, and what would a Buffalo pizza restaurant be without wings — bourbon wings in this case, with a side of smoked blue cheese? $20-35. (updated Jan 2019)

26 Eckl's@Larkin, 703 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-331-3242. M-F 11AM-10PM, Sa 4PM-10PM, bar open later. Easily the most luxurious dining experience in Larkinville — in all of South Buffalo, actually — can be found at the branch location of Eckl's restaurant in the Larkin Center of Commerce. The original Eckl's in Orchard Park lays a somewhat dubious alternative claim to have invented the beef on weck, and for those not in the mood to splurge, it's available here in the form of sandwiches as well as "prime rib-n-weck egg rolls", an interesting bit of fusion that's one of the most popular features on the menu. But the lion's share of the menu follows the classic upscale steaks/chops/seafood template fairly closely, with end results that, while not outright bad, don't really justify the prices. But service is impeccable and the Art Deco-inspired ambience is as posh as it comes, so if money is no object, stop in. $30-125. (updated Jan 2019)

27 Abbott Pizza, 1177 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14 or 42), ☏ +1 716-826-2628. Su-Th 11AM-10PM, F Sa 11AM-11PM. Among South Buffalonians, the rivalry between Abbott and Imperial Pizza up the street is intense. The latter has better pizza, but the former sports a more diverse menu, going beyond the usual pizzeria fare to include tacos and other simple Tex-Mex favorites, a huge range of subs and wraps, and even family-sized fried chicken dinners. As for the pizza, it's reliably good (if, again, not as good as Imperial), not too greasy, and decently priced. Favorites include the spicy "Hot Topic" with two kinds of peppers, the meat-lovers' dream "Abbott Special" with ham, cappicola, salami and sausage, as well as a Greek pizza topped with a blend of mozzarella and feta, onions, olives and souvlaki meat. Minus a couple of points for the astonishing fact that this place doesn't serve fountain drinks (soda comes in cans only). $10-25. (updated Jan 2019)

28 Dog Ears Bookstore & Café, 688 Abbott Rd (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-823-2665. M-F 6:30AM-8PM, Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 9AM-3PM. Dog Ears is not only a bookstore, but also a cafe where you can get a whole range of gourmet sandwiches served up in a cozy, intimate setting. Creative names for menu items evoke the literary classics of the past: the "Dubliner" features bacon, sharp Irish cheese, roasted tomatoes, and spinach on panini, and the vegetarian-friendly "Walden" sees grilled zucchini, mushrooms, artichokes, red peppers, and sun-dried tomato pesto piled onto on toast. Grab a scone out of the bakery case for a side; they're out of this world. At breakfast, bagels, French toast, and some pricey-but-good breakfast sandwiches are the rule. If you're here on Friday mornings, take advantage of "Free Coffee Friday"; if not, have a coffee anyway — it's ridiculously cheap on the other six days of the week too! $10-15. (updated Jan 2019)

29 Brick Oven Bistro, 904 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-844-8496. M-Th 11AM-3PM and 4-9PM, F Sa 11AM-3PM and 4-10PM, Su noon-8PM. Brick Oven Bistro stands out from the rest of the neighborhood's underwhelming dining scene with its focus on creative, upscale cuisine — especially, as the name implies, a selection of about a dozen artisanal brick-oven pizzas ranging from well-executed classics (margherita, pepperoni, mushroom) to unusual innovations (a Reuben pizza complete with sauerkraut) and paeans to the local cuisine (a beef on weck pizza with Swiss cheese, horseradish aioli, and a kümmelweck crust). If you like your crust thin, this place is for you; one reviewer suggested they'd be better described as flatbreads. At lunchtime is served a selection of sandwiches, the best of which features mouth-watering Angus steak dressed with hot peppers, onions, provolone, and garlic aioli. $15-35. (updated Jan 2019)

30 Imperial Pizza, 1035 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-825-3636. Daily 11AM-11:30PM.

31 Jo Jo's, 528 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-822-6000. Su-Th 11AM-10PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight.

32 Yummy's, 1527 Clinton St. (Metro Bus 2 or 19), ☏ +1 716-822-8630. M-Th 10:30AM-11PM, F Sa 10:30AM-midnight. If you're an aficionado of Puerto Rican food, the conventional wisdom — to seek it out on the West Side — is for the most part true. But on the corner of Clinton and Bailey you'll find a big exception to that rule. Yummy's may not look like much from the outside, but what it serves is the most shockingly authentic island fare in town: above all pastelillos made with real yuca (which you used to have to go to NYC to get) and your choice of chicken, beef, or shrimp. But the printed menu is only a prelude to a slate of main courses that changes daily but popularly includes such favorites as oxtail stew, arroz con gandules, fried chicken, even mamposteao and other Puerto Rican-Chinese fusion dishes. $10-20. (updated Aug 2019)

33 Bowl Inn, 727 Bailey Ave (Metro Bus 2 or 19), ☏ +1 716-824-9074. M Tu Th F 4PM-4AM, W noon-4AM, Sa Su 11AM-4AM.

34 African Heritage Food Co-op, 1500 Clinton St. #98 (at the Niagara Frontier Food Terminal; Metro Bus 2 or 19), ☏ +1 716-573-1844. W-Su 11AM-7PM. The African Heritage Co-op is not only a food market, but also a blow struck for entrepreneurship in the local black community, because (as they say around here) "anything less than ownership is unacceptable". Fresh fruits and veggies, organic toiletries, and other healthy goodies. At the Black Business Bazaar on the first Saturday of each month, a range of local independent vendors convene to proffer their own goods. (updated Aug 2019)

35 Clinton Bailey Farmers' Market, 1443 Clinton St. (Metro Bus 2 or 19), ☏ +1 716-822-2466. Daily 7AM-6PM May-Oct, Sa 6AM-1PM Nov-Apr. Many Buffalonians look at farmers' markets as a new phenomenon, maybe even a fad. But the Clinton Bailey Farmers' Market has been around a lot longer than the Johnny-come-latelys: founded in 1930 as an outgrowth of the wholesale food distributors across the street at the Niagara Frontier Food Terminal, it's by far the oldest and largest farmers' market in Buffalo, and the only one that remains open year round (though with sharply reduced hours in winter). You'll find stall after stall of growers and vendors each specializing in something a little different from their neighbor — fresh produce, flowers and ornamental plants, baked goods, specialty foods, Christmas trees around the holidays. There's even a small flea market on summer weekends with jewelry and other goods. (updated Jan 2019)

1 Blackthorn Pub, 2134 Seneca St (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-825-9327. "If I had to imagine a South Buffalo Irish pub, this would probably be it", said one reviewer, and while that's maybe giving old Seneca Street a bit too much credit — there are more than a few spots on the strip that fall on the wrong side of the line between "unpretentious" and "seedy" — all in all it's not an inaccurate description of the Blackthorn. Sure, you'll find a decent selection of craft beers on tap at the bar, but they seem out of place: the Blackthorn is the kind of place where the thing to do is relax over an ice-cold Guinness stout and a plate of homestyle stick-to-your-ribs pub grub and drink in the old-school ambience of Buffalo as it was before the hipsters started taking over. (updated Jan 2019)

2 Bottle Rocket, 2182 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-725-6789. Located in the beautifully remodeled Shea's Seneca building, Bottle Rocket is part beer store, part chilled-out, hipster-friendly watering hole pouring a constantly changing selection of craft beers. There are eight on tap at any given time, including a few local beers but emphasizing diverse and interesting selections from craft breweries around the East Coast that you won't necessarily find elsewhere in Buffalo. The centerpiece of the place is an enormous 84-inch flat-screen TV, which, when it's not tuned to the big game or blaring classic rock standards, is put to use for the video game tournaments the place hosts from time to time. (updated Jan 2019)

3 Daly's, 2423 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-823-0250. A classic working-class South Buffalo Irish pub, but with a side order of neighborhood history. Founded in 1896 as an outgrowth of the long-gone Lakeview Brewery, Daly's is not quite as old as the former Swannie House, but it's old enough, and retains enough of its original vibe, to be a frequent stop on the Forgotten Buffalo Tours of blue-collar old-Buffalo remnants. Knock back an ice-cold beer or cocktail while perusing photos and memorabilia on the walls that rep every era of the bar's history, in an ambience utterly free of pretension. (updated Jan 2019)

4 Hopper's Rush Inn, 2104 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-825-9389. Another classic neighborhood watering hole that's been around for decades, Rush Inn doesn't have the history that Daly's has, but it certainly does have the same old-Buffalo charm — not to mention as friendly a rogue's gallery of barkeeps and regulars as you're likely to come across anywhere. The lighting is dim, the decor is spartan, the pool table and dartboard are fun diversions, and live music happens from time to time; stop by to drink it all in (along with a pint of Guinness or a cold bottle of Genny)! (updated Jan 2019)

5 Public Espresso, 2178 Seneca St (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-491-9013. M-F 7AM-4PM, Sa-Su 8AM-3PM. The South Buffalo satellite location of Public Espresso at the Shea's Seneca building offers basically the same sort of eating and drinking experience as the downtown one: drip and pour-over coffee made from ethically-sourced beans, bursting with nuanced natural flavors; an impressive range of baked goods crowned by Buffalo's best homemade vegan doughnuts; sandwiches, breakfast options, and other light fare. But the ambience starkly different, eschewing the trendy hipster vibes for those of a 1950s diner, with checkerboard floors, decorative neon signs, and midcentury-inspired furnishings. And feel free to direct the nostalgic Gen Xer in your crowd to the gift shop, replete with Star Wars and other 1980s throwback merch. (updated Feb 2020)

"Industrial chic" is the name of the game in the nightlife district nestled in the shadow of the KeyBank Center. As you can imagine, these bars really hop when the Sabres are playing, but when there's nothing going on at the arena, the scenario is no less pleasant: you can imbibe in a quieter and more intimate ambience, and enjoy ample free parking at the huge, deserted KeyBank Center lots.

6 Ballyhoo, 211 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42), ☏ +1 716-240-9901. You'll find it where the Malamute used to be, but don't be fooled: in sharp contrast to that old-school gin mill, Ballyhoo would give any of the trendy cocktail bars on Elmwood a run for their money, let alone scruffy South Buffalo. Here, you can imbibe any of an impressive range of microbrews hailing from the local area and elsewhere, or perhaps a smart craft cocktail made with homemade mixers, while obscure British post-punk drones on the stereo. In summer, Ballyhoo has one of Buffalo's most unusual patios: a wooden deck facing Michigan Avenue built with salvaged military-surplus materials (the planter boxes hanging from the rails are made from old missile casings!) (updated Jan 2019)

7 Buffalo Iron Works, 49 Illinois St (Metro Bus 6, 8, 14, 16, or 42; Metro Rail: Erie Canal Harbor), ☏ +1 716-200-1893. Iron Works is probably best known as a concert venue, but if you happen to be in town on one of those few nights when there's nothing on the event calendar, it's still worth a visit to enjoy a drink (a great selection of local craft beers on tap and big-name domestics and imports in cans; no bottles) or a bite to eat (courtesy of the taco stand set up near the entrance, operated by the folks from Left Coast Taco in East Aurora) in a friendly ambience. (updated Jan 2019)

8 Cobblestone, 130 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 42; Metro Rail: Erie Canal Harbor), ☏ +1 716-848-1930. The history of this c. 1860 converted warehouse shows in its interior decor, all exposed brick and ductwork, but don't mistake Cobblestone for a hipster hangout: it's more for the kind of person who'd rather stick to classic bar food and an ice-cold Miller Lite or Molson while watching sports on one of a multitude of big-screen TVs positioned around the barroom. The food menu is brief and specializes in chicken wings and brick-oven pizza, and the rowdy, bro-oriented clientele and atmosphere "personif[y] the ethos of late-'90s Buffalo" (in the words of the Buffalo News). (updated Jan 2019)

9 Labatt Brew House, 79 Perry St. (Metro Bus 6, 8, 14, 16, 24 or 42; Metro Rail: Erie Canal Harbor), ☏ +1 716-254-0564. The ground floor of the Labatt Brewing Company's U.S. home offices is given over to a 200-seat restaurant as well as this small "innovation brewery" for limited-edition and seasonal beers, most unavailable elsewhere. (They seem to be positioning Blue Citra, a hoppy lager with notes of grapefruit, as the next new breakout star in the Labatt lineup; get it here before it hits stores.) Enjoy any of these dozen or so beers either in the restaurant, a large beer garden out back, or a small tasting room with a bird's-eye view onto the production floor — and if you want to help any of them find a wider market, put in a good word on the feedback form they provide! (updated Jan 2019)

Aside from the spanking-new craft brewery and distillery tasting rooms — which, needless to say, are an entirely different story — bar-hopping in the Old First Ward and The Valley is like taking a trip back in time to working-class Buffalo of old. These rough-and-tumble gin mills go way back — in fact, some of them have been in business since the 1850s, when the First Ward was home to Irish canal workers and grain scoopers.

11 Adolf's Old First Ward Tavern, 555 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 18), ☏ +1 716-248-2968. If its rather unfortunate name isn't enough to tip you off as to how long this place has been around, that point will be made clear as soon as you scope out the interior, with its original tin ceiling and the proud Irish shamrocks on the wood-panelled walls. But like the best of the First Ward's bars, Adolf's strikes a careful balance between old-Buffalo throwback and destination for hipsters in search of gritty authenticity. Alongside the usual big-name beers, Genny, and Guinness on tap you'll find an ample roster of craft brews, plus a food menu of pub grub classics with a Hibernian flair and occasional performances by local rock bands livening up an already plenty convivial atmosphere. (updated Jan 2019)

12 BriarBrothers Brewing Company, 50 Elk St, ☏ +1 716 217-0585, info@briarbrothersbrewing.com. Craft brewery features a rotating selection of microbrews and hard seltzers with numerous flavor profiles. The brewery resides in a refurbished grain silo that was once a malting house that provided grain and malt for the greater rust belt region of the United States. Retrofitted to include production space, a sizable taproom, and an event center, it is a popular weekend spot for locals and craft beer enthusiasts. An on-site food truck featuring Nashville-style chicken sandwiches is available during business hours. (updated Apr 2024)

13 Buffalo Bar & Grille, 307 Louisiana St. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 18 or 42), ☏ +1 716-602-9724. This "historical meeting place for the famous and famished" may only be open Fridays, but it's a great destination for those who want a real neighborhood dive bar experience without a hint of hipster affectation. That goes double for history buffs, who can knock back a cold beer or tuck into a plate of chicken wings or fish fry (both with their share of votes for the best in town) in a dimly-lit but bustling barroom where the decor varies between old-time Buffalo memorabilia and pinup photos of 1950s movie stars. (updated Jan 2019)

14 Buffalo RiverWorks Brewery, 359 Ganson St. (Metro Bus 14 or 16). RiverWorks is where you'll find the world's first fully functioning grain-elevator brewery, with the former Consolidated Grange League Federation Elevato (aka the iconic Labatt Blue "six-pack" painted with the logo of the corporate sponsor of the pond hockey tournament RiverWorks hosts every February), retrofitted as storage tanks for five permanent and two changing seasonal beers, including "Trainwreck", the signature brew at downtown's Pearl Street Grill, which shares the same owners. Enjoy them in one of four interior bars, in the outdoor "Stonehenge" beer garden set among the foundations of the ruined Wheeler Elevator next door, or at the onsite restaurant, The Ward. (updated Jan 2019)

23 Undergrounds Coffeehouse & Roastery, 580 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16 or 18), ☏ +1 716-240-9923. M-F 6AM-5PM, Sa Su 7AM-5PM. Hip café brewing house-roasted pour-over coffee, lattes, espressos, etc., and whipping up sandwiches and other light lunches, in a former funeral home in the Old First Ward. Undergrounds pays playful tribute to the building's former tenant with both its name and the quirky, Tim Burton-esque interior elements. Service can be a bit aloof, but the coffee and food both pass muster. (updated Oct 2016)

24 Wonder Coffeehouse, 323 Ganson St (Metro Bus 14 or 16). Daily 8AM-4PM. Wonder Coffeehouse's website describes its location as "a part of the city that is literally in ruins", which is both true and untrue: yes, there's an eerie emptiness around old Elevator Alley these days, but that's exactly what's attracting visitors — and, increasingly, visitor amenities like this very café — to the area. But industrial ambience isn't all Wonder has to odder: the coffee- and tea-based beverages are smooth, flavorful, and come piping hot, the food menu is dominated by crowd-pleasing Liège waffles, and prices are fair. What's not so "wonder"ful is the service (friendly but often slow) and the cleanliness standards (overflowing garbage bins are a persistent problem). (updated Feb 2020)

South Park Avenue's lengthy roster of Irish (of course) pubs are not quite as gritty as the ones you'll find in the Old First Ward, but there's still plenty of opportunity to mingle with the locals in an environment that's utterly free of pretension.

25 The Pub, 2115 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16), ☏ +1 716-824-2657. With a clientele that's resolutely local and an ambience that falls somewhere between sports bar and neighborhood dive, Avenue is a good place to go if you want a real South Buffalo bar experience without the grunginess that can sometimes entail. It's also a place to go if you like bar games to go with your drinks: the game room's stocked up with a pool table and multiple dartboards, and out back there's even a horseshoe pit and a sand volleyball setup. At the bar you'll find a decent selection of beers and mixed drinks served with a friendly efficiency — including a few craft brews from the likes of Great Lakes and Southern Tier, but nothing too outlandish — and a food menu where wings are the standout. (updated Jan 2019)

26 The Blarney Castle, 1856 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16), ☏ +1 716-824-5858. The Blarney Castle may not look like much from the outside (or from the inside, for that matter; decor is spartan and runs toward a mix of green construction-paper shamrocks and mounted deer heads), but it differentiates itself from South Buffalo's sometimes borderline-indistinguishable roster of Irish pubs with its signature drink, the Bloody Mary, which comes brimming with flavor and an indelible hint of spice. Aside from that, you'll find the usual roster of big-name beers plus the ubiquitous Guinness on tap, and 50¢ wings on Monday and Tuesday nights. (updated Jan 2019)

27 Griffin's Irish Pub, 81 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-821-7708. You'll find a friendly (if decidedly earthy) experience at pretty much any Irish pub you may happen across in South Buffalo, but if that gregarious camaraderie is an especially important element of the bar experience for you, put Griffin's near the top of your list. And if you're interested in dipping your toes into the local and regional craft beer scene — say, with a Ringside Irish Red or something from Flying Bison — but don't want to get too crazy with it, do the same. (And if not, don't worry: you'll still find Irish pub staples like Jameson whiskey, Guinness, and all your favorite big-brand domestics on tap too.) (updated Jan 2019)

28 Nine-Eleven Tavern, 11 Bloomfield Ave. (Metro Bus 16), ☏ +1 716-825-9939. Can you go to Nine-Eleven for the typical South Buffalo dive-bar experience? Sure, if you like: they've got a respectable selection of beers on tap, the friendly barkeeps pour a decent cocktail, and there's shuffleboard for a bit of fun. But what most people come here for are the wings: with a house recipe that's a variation on Smitty-style wings in which some detect notes of malt or apple cider vinegar, Nine-Eleven's name is a perennial contender in the age-old debate about who serves the best wings in Buffalo, and given the fierce tone said debate often takes and the sheer number of competitors vying for the title, the size and loyalty of its fanbase is nothing to sneeze at. (updated Jan 2019)

Even more so than the Old First Ward, Larkinville is where to go in South Buffalo if you want to taste what local craft brewers, distillers, and cocktail artisans have to offer.

30 Belt Line Brewery, 545 Swan St. (Metro Bus 2, 15 or 18), ☏ +1 716-402-1756. Located on the ground floor of the old Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company Warehouse at the west end of Larkinville and sporting an appropriately industrial-chic vibe, Belt Line was the first craft brewery in Buffalo to jump on the sour beer bandwagon, with options such as the citrus-tinged, pleasantly mild "Everything Is Fine" American wild ale as well as the more assertive "Tastes Like Brunch", but the flagship offering is a farm-to-table Honey Kölsch with a subtle sweetness that goes down easy. And if you happen to be vegan or have other special dietary needs, you'll find a lot more to like on the food menu than at similar places around town. (updated Aug 2019)

Buffalo Distilling Company, 860 Seneca St (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23). If you're looking to sample the Buffalo Distilling Company's "One Foot Cock" line of craft spirits — bourbon (apparently the first ever produced in Western New York; light and sweet with notes of caramel and corn), apple brandy (not too sweet; oak, almost even more than apple, is the dominant flavor), and vodka (their newest offering has a pleasant, warm richness and a tinge of sweetness), all produced with locally-sourced ingredients — the spiffy tasting room just off the production floor is the place to do it. (updated Jan 2019)

Eckl's@Larkin, 703 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-331-3242. The bar at this swanky Larkinville steakhouse pours some pretty nifty house cocktails and has a decent selection of beers on tap and in bottles, comprising a mix of big names and locally- and regionally-brewed craft brews (try a Rusty Chain or Pressure Drop Blackalicious stout for a true taste of South Buffalo), poured in an elegant ambience. But you sure do pay for the privilege: $16 for a rye Manhattan? In Buffalo? (updated Jan 2019)

31 Flying Bison Brewing Company, 840 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-873-1557. Tours Th F 6PM, Sa 1PM and 4PM. Flying Bison offers three tours a week of its brewery in Larkinville, where guides explain the company's history and mission, walk visitors through the beermaking process step-by-step, and furnish a glimpse of brewers in action. The atmosphere is laid-back and friendly as can be, and frankly it's almost unfair to say these tours are free — they're so liberal with the free samples it's almost like you are being paid to take the tour. (According to one reviewer, the staff, who are notorious for shooting the breeze with visitors over drinks before and after tours, "basically get you drunk on the house".) Free.

34 Kornerstone Café & Juice Bar, 701 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15, 18 or 23), ☏ +1 716-322-0237. M-F 6AM-6PM, Sa 9AM-3PM. East Aurora's Kornerstone Café opened their Larkinville satellite location in 2018, and would you believe it's actually an improvement on the original? The menu (of locally-roasted, fair-trade, organic, intricately-flavored coffee; healthy juice blends and smoothies in literally dozens of varieties, sandwiches and other light meals including a wide selection for vegans) is identical, service comes with the same smile, but here at the Larkin Center of Commere you've actually got room to stretch out and make yourself comfy! Reasonable prices are the icing on the cake. (updated Jan 2019)

Brick Oven Bistro, 904 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-844-8496. There's no more classic combination in Buffalo cuisine than pizza and beer — and there's nothing that goes better with Brick Oven Bistro's fancy-shmancy artisanal brick-oven pizzas than any one of 18 varieties on craft beer tap and dozens more in bottles representing local brewers as well as harder-to-find beers from elsewhere in the country. Beer aficionados who want to compare and contrast from among the selections can opt for a flight. (updated Jan 2019)

35 Doc Sullivan's, 474 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-824-6745. If you're looking for a spot with that classic Abbott Road not-quite-a-dive-but-certainly-not-fancy ambience, you'll find this place to your liking, with a couple of local craft beers on tap to boot. But if you've heard of Doc Sullivan's for any reason, it likely has to do with Smitty-style wings, South Buffalo's unique alternate take on the chicken wing. Though Nine-Eleven's iteration is better-known among locals, Doc's wings are said to be the truest to the original Smitty's Tavern recipe — and when the Food Network series Burgers, Brew & 'Que wanted to investigate Smitty-style wings, they came here. If you're intrigued, come on a Monday or Tuesday, when they go for 50¢ each and draft beer is $1 off. (updated Jan 2019)

36 Molly Maguire's, 834 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-823-2380. By contrast with the spiffier places elsewhere along the Abbott Road strip, Molly Maguire's hews closer to the prototypical grungy South Buffalo dive, with cheap drinks poured in a dark, loud barroom sparsely decorated with the usual Irish-themed tchotchkes. That's certainly no knock on the place, though; the clientele is friendly, the vibe is gregarious, and free concerts by local bands liven the place up further on Saturday nights. (updated Jan 2019)

37 Old School Tavern, 1263 Clinton St. (Metro Bus 2), ☏ +1 716-822-2337. Hooray for truth in advertising: though blue-collar gin mills aren't exactly hard to find in this part of town, the extra dose of friendly service and conviviality you'll find at Old School Tavern sets it apart from the competition. The beer selection is surprisingly wide, including some local offerings, and the food menu is a showcase of classic Buffalo cuisine (beef on weck, fish fry on Friday nights, and 25¢ wings on Wednesdays). (updated Jan 2019)

In operation since 1920, the South Buffalo News is a weekly community paper that covers local news and high school sports for both South Buffalo and neighboring Lackawanna. Event listings, a police blotter, and Lackawanna City Council proceedings are also featured.

8 Mercy Hospital, 565 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-826-7000. Mercy Hospital was founded in 1904 by the Sisters of Mercy, a Catholic religious order native to Ireland who also operate Trocaire College and Mount Mercy Academy on the same campus. Today. Mercy Hospital is part of Catholic Health Systems of Buffalo. Its newly expanded emergency room is the largest in Western New York, staffed around the clock with physicians, nurses and assistants. Mercy is also renowned for excellence in the field of orthopedic surgery and cardiovascular care (it's the only hospital in the area to be recognized by the American Heart Association as a "comprehensive stroke center".)

9 Bestway Cleaners, 2075 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-824-9892. M Tu Th F 8AM-5PM, W 8AM-2PM, Sa 8AM-1PM.

10 Sudsey's, 1834 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-319-0934. Daily 7AM-midnight.

11 The Washroom, 2265 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-598-8227. Daily 24 hours.

12 M&T Laundromat, 2050 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16). Daily 7AM-11PM. (updated May 2019)

The Larkin Convenience Store, open weekdays 10AM-2PM in the atrium of the Larkin @ Exchange office building, offers dry cleaning services.

13 Abbott Village Laundry, 1149 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14 or 42), ☏ +1 716-826-6913. Daily 6AM-11PM.

14 Alterations by Candice, 968 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-824-9310. M Tu Th F 8AM-5PM, Sa 8AM-3PM. Offers dry cleaning services. (updated Jul 2016)

15 Connie's Tailors and Cleaners, 813 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-826-6661. M Tu Th F 8:30AM-5PM, Sa 9AM-1PM.

16 Louis Dry Cleaners, 1032 Abbott Rd. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-823-7200. M-F 8AM-5:30PM, Sa 8AM-1PM.

Not much religious diversity here: South Buffalo is the most monolithically Christian area of the city.

True to its own history in particular as well as the demographics of the Niagara Frontier as a whole, the Catholic Church remains a dominant force in South Buffalo's religious life.

Our Lady of Charity RC Church, ☏ +1 716-822-5962. Headed up by Fr. Bryan Zielenieski, Our Lady of Charity is a large Catholic congregation that was founded in 2010 as a merger of three smaller parishes: Holy Family, St. Ambrose, and St. Agatha. Mass is still held seven days a week in the former two churches, while the St. Agatha campus houses a rectory and is used occasionally by the congregation for special events.

17 Holy Family Church, 1885 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 16). Mass Su 8:30AM & 11AM, Sa 4:30PM, M-F 7:30AM in basement chapel. Situated at the corner of South Park Avenue and Tifft Street, Holy Family is one of the oldest churches in this part of the city — the congregation was founded in 1902 to serve the rapidly growing community that had moved in to take jobs at the huge new steel plant in nearby Lackawanna. With its stout arches and twin steeples looking over South Park Avenue, the building is one of the most magnificent examples of Romanesque Revival architecture anywhere in the city, thanks to the firm of Lansing & Beierl, famous around Buffalo for designing churches for the Catholic diocese. Holy Family's interior seats 950 people and boasts stained glass imported from Austria and mural paintings by Danish artist Holvag Rambusch based on the Book of Kells (it's said to be the only church in the United States that uses ancient Irish art in its interior decoration).

18 St. Ambrose Church, 65 Ridgewood Rd. (Metro Bus 16). Mass Su 8:30AM, 10AM, 11:30AM & 7PM; Sa 4PM; M-F 8:30AM. Dating to 1930 — toward the end of the great South Buffalo building boom — St. Ambrose Church is located on a charming side street between South Park Avenue and McKinley Parkway. The current church building was erected in 1950 and absolutely looks it: the façade of this striking modernist building features a blocky, monolithic brick wall centered on a column of rectangular-paneled stained glass windows with images celebrating the church's relevance in the modern world.

19 Our Lady of Perpetual Help RC Church, 115 O'Connell Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 18 or 42), ☏ +1 716-852-2671. Mass Su 10:30AM, Sa 4:30PM. Located in the very heart of the Old First Ward, "Pets" is the last remaining of what were once three Catholic churches in the neighborhood. Founded by the diocese due to overcrowding at other neighborhood parishes, Our Lady of Perpetual Help's founding priest, Father Richard O'Connell, was honored after his death when the street his church stands on was renamed for him. The congregation worships in a magnificent Gothic sandstone edifice that dates to 1900 and was designed by the local firm of Lansing & Beierl.

24 Our Lady of the Rosary Catholic Church, 231 McKinley Pkwy. (Metro Bus 14), ☏ +1 716-823-7176. Latin Tridentine Mass Su 10AM. Located on McKinley Parkway about halfway between McClellan and McKinley Circles, Our Lady of the Rosary is a traditionalist Catholic congregation that meets in the former home of the Kennedy Free Methodist Church, a handsome Colonial-style brick building that dates to 1937. The church is affiliated with the Society of St. Pius X, which split from Rome over the reforms of Vatican II; accordingly, the experience at Our Lady of the Rosary is a bit more pious and conservative, with all Masses held in the original Latin. Also in keeping with its affiliation, Our Lady of the Rosary is known for its charitable works in the South Buffalo area and its zeal in sharing its unique brand of Catholicism with the community at large.

25 Cazenovia Park Baptist Church, 520 N. Legion Dr. (Metro Bus 14 or 15), ☏ +1 716-822-7925. Services Su 11AM. Founded in 1897, "Caz Church" is instills in its flock a mission to love God and their fellow man through spreading their faith and engaging in charitable endeavors and other works for the benefit of the community. The congregation is affiliated with the Southern Baptist Convention and meets weekly in a modest Colonial-style building built in 1939 that serves as one of the final works in the career of Buffalo's preeminent architect of all time, E. B. Green.

26 Good Shepherd Community of Faith, 187 Southside Pkwy. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-824-4112. Services Su 10:30AM. The sign at the front of the building reads "Good Shepherd Baptist Church", and it was founded in 1887 as South Buffalo's first congregation of that denomination. But that's only half of the story: this church does double duty, affiliated with both the American Baptist Convention and the United Church of Christ. Come down to this stately red-brick Colonial on Southside Parkway and enter the door in the shadow of its proud 60-foot (18-m) steeple, and you'll surely have a warm, faith-affirming experience with friendly folks.

27 Grace Lutheran Church, 174 Cazenovia St (Metro Bus 14 or 15), ☏ +1 716-822-0553. Services Su 10:30AM. At Grace Lutheran Church, Reverend Marlene Hyden "preaches a changeless Christ in a changing world", with services mixing traditional and contemporary elements and taking place in a leafy setting facing Cazenovia Park. Founded by Reverend Theodore Kretchmann, Grace started out as a mission of the Lutheran Church of the Atonement in present-day Larkinville, and was one of the first Lutheran churches in Buffalo to hold services in English rather than German. The building is a stately one of red brick, with an architectural style that's a hybrid of Gothic and Romanesque; it was built in 1908 and expanded to its present size in 1930.

28 St. Jude's Episcopal Church, 124 Macamley St. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-824-4322. Services Su 8:30AM. On a quiet street of well-kept homes in The Triangle stands this charming, understated church. St. Jude's Episcopal Church was the first of its denomination to be located south of the Buffalo River, founded in 1895 as a mission of St. James Episcopal in the Ellicott District. The present building, designed in the English country style and constructed of locally quarried Onondaga limestone, was erected in 1931.

29 St. Matthew's Episcopal Church, 1182 Seneca St. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-822-4830. Services Su 9AM. Describing itself as "a friendly and caring parish family united in fellowship to share the Word of God with the community", the resilient St. Matthew's Episcopal Church has made much of its fidelity to the Seneca-Babcock neighborhood it's served for over 125 years — it has maintained its independence and identity despite the advice of the Episcopal diocese to relocate to Cheektowaga or merge with neighboring congregations (though it has taken on a sister parish, St. Jude's in The Triangle). Founded in 1884 when the neighborhood was still largely rural, the little wood-frame church on Seneca Street has a small but steadfast congregation. It is the second building on the property.

34 Bread of Life Christian Church, 1632 South Park Ave. (Metro Bus 14, 16, 19 or 23), ☏ +1 716-827-7866. Services Su 10AM & W 7PM. Bread of Life Christian Church is a friendly, vibrant congregation that's been alive with faith and genuine love for the community since 1983. Raucous and joyful services are held by in an environment that's welcoming, down-to-earth, and nonjudgmental. Bread of Life also hosts guest speakers, youth groups, and other special events on a frequent basis (even Sunday-evening "movie nights"!), and demonstrates their boundless compassion for those in need with a host of programs and initiatives benefiting the community.

A few African-American congregations can be found in South Buffalo, principally near its northern border with the East Side.

35 Berea Church of God in Christ, 49 Indian Church Rd. (Metro Bus 15), ☏ +1 716-821-7807. Services Su noon. Founded in 1997, Berea Church of God in Christ is a friendly flock that meets every Sunday at a church on a leafy residential side street not far from Seneca Street. The handsome brick building that welcomes these worshipers was built in 1914 as the home of St. Paul's Reformed Church, a congregation of German-speaking Presbyterians. Today, aside from weekly services, Berea's positive, loving engagement with the community is exemplified by programs such as a vibrant women's ministry and extensive outreach to the poor. (updated Oct 2016)

36 DeLaine Waring African Methodist Episcopal Church, 680 Swan St. (Metro Bus 15 or 18), ☏ +1 716 842-6747. Services Su 10AM. The DeLaine Waring A.M.E. Church has been going strong in the heart of Larkinville since 1956, when its half-namesake, Reverend Joseph DeLaine, came to Buffalo from South Carolina and founded a new congregation in the handsome red brick church that had housed the St. Matthew's German Evangelical Protestant Church for almost 90 years. DeLaine Waring is today a multigenerational church, with old folks who've been worshipping there since day one joined — in both worship service and at numerous uplifting special events — by younger congregants whose zeal keeps the fire burning.

37 Royal Church of God in Christ, 1335 Clinton St. (Metro Bus 2 or 19), ☏ +1 716-892-2508. Services Su at noon. The story of Royal Church of God in Christ begins in 1952, when Elder Roy Rodolph, an Alabama native who'd been preaching at the State Tabernacle Church of God in Christ since arriving in Buffalo three years previous, was compelled to start his own congregation, which he named after a passage in the First Epistle of Peter. Through the years, Royal has evolved from a humble storefront operation on the Near East Side to its current home at the former Christ German Evangelical Church, a stout Gothic edifice on Clinton Street. Services are held weekly, but that's just the tip of the iceberg: Royal sponsors a huge variety of special ministries and community programs including music and dance programs, food donations to the needy, prison ministry, and special worship groups for children, women, and young men.