Banteay Chhmar is an urban centre from the Angkorian period, situated in the northwest Cambodian province Banteay Meanchey, near to the Dangrek Mountains and the border of Thailand.5 Thought to be a military centre or fortress, Banteay Chhmar is best-known for the sandstone temples, Bayon style and hydraulic system.3 514 170 Recent research has produced a more complete understanding of the site, further exploring the role of Banteay Chhmar in the region. Developed by Jayavarman VII, Banteay Chhmar is a unique example of Angkorian urbanism, dissimilar to other 'open cities' of the period.171 As a result, Banteay Chhmar has helped archaeologists to better understand Angkor, in particular, the rule of Jayavarman VII.
Banteay Chhmar Temple is in northwestern Cambodia. The temple complex is from the Angkorian era, just like Cambodia's top attraction, but more remote, less famous and therefore without the tourist crowds. The name also refers to the adjacent village of Khum Banteay Chhmar, where the services can be found.
Banteay Chhmar Temple and its nine satellite temples form one of the great temple complexes from the Angkorian era. The temple was constructed by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. The temple complex is one of the largest from the Angkorian era and is one of only two sites outside of Bayon Temple bearing the enigmatic Bayon-style face towers. Banteay Chhmar Temple is undergoing a multi-year conservation project by Global Heritage Fund (GHF) and the Cambodian government is in efforts to have Banteay Chhmar listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2010, Banteay Chhmar won the "Hidden Treasures Cambodia" destination award.
1 Banteay Chhmar Community-Based Tourism (CBT), National Rd 56A, ☏ +855 97 516 5533, +855 12 435 660. A group of local villagers dedicated to preserving and protecting the cultural heritage of the area as well as creating a sustainable tourism industry in Banteay Chhmar. Provides homestays, English-speaking tour guides, meals, activities, tour packages, booking services and transportation resources for individuals and tour groups. All CBT members are non-salaried and only receive income from providing guest services. This includes the cooks and homestay owners, as well. The CBT also saves some money from guest services in a local community fund to help with community-wide projects such as a solid waste disposal project.
While most visitors focus on the stone faces of Banteay Chmhar, the surrounding rice paddies and the meandering canals tell a parallel story of continuity. Local farmers still tend the fields that once fed an imperial garrison, using irrigation techniques that echo the ancient hydraulic system. A sunrise walk along the watercourses reveals how the water is channelled through a series of small basins before disappearing into the floodplain – a subtle reminder that the Angkorian engineers designed for resilience, not just grandeur. Engaging a guide from Thma Puok village gives insight into how seasonal monsoons shape planting cycles, and why certain trees are planted near the site to stabilise the soils that support the temples.
Banteay Chmhar sits only a short drive from the Thai border, a fact that colours its present‑day rhythm. The market at the edge of town buzzes with traders shuttling goods across the Dangrek range, offering a tangible contrast to the silent stone courtyards. For the curious traveller, a brief detour to the nearby Thai village of Ban Sopho allows a comparison of how each side interprets the same Angkorian legacy – Thai hospitality and Cambodian solemnity meet at a roadside tea stall. Timing your visit on a Monday, when the border crossing is busiest, provides a vivid illustration of how historic routes continue to serve as arteries of commerce and cultural exchange.
Banteay Chhmar is most easily reached from Sisophon, 65 km south of Banteay Chhmar. Sisophon is at the junction of Hwy 5 and Hwy 6 and is a major transit hub linking Siem Reap, Battambang, Phnom Penh, and Poipet (Thai border). There are numerous buses and taxis from Sisophon all day long. It should not be a problem getting to Sisophon.
From Sisophon, taxis are the only practical way to reach Banteay Chhmar. You can find taxis at Psaar Thmei (New Market) on Highway 56, the road leading to Banteay Chhmar. The CBT provides taxis with its logo at this taxi stand.
Shared taxis (carrying six passengers—four in the back and two in the front, plus the driver) cost $5 per person. If you need extra legroom, you can pay for two seats. A private taxi costs $25.
During the dry season, the journey from Sisophon to Banteay Chhmar takes approximately one hour. However, in the rainy season, travel times may be longer depending on rainfall and road conditions. The road is very rarely, if ever, completely closed
In the unlikely event that the road is closed, Banteay Chhmar can be reached via Samraong, about 50 km north. This road is in better condition, but is a much longer journey than from Sisophon. This road can also take you to the O'Smach/Chong Chom border crossing with Thailand.
The CBT will help you with making your onward travels from Banteay Chhmar.
Private taxis and minibuses for groups can be arranged through tour operators or guesthouses in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. You should contact the CBT if you need advice or help about these options.
Self-drive motorbikes can be rented in Sisophon at the Golden Crown Guesthouse (US$10/day).
Motorbikes with driver (motodop US$10–12) and tuk-tuks (US$30/day) can also be hired in Sisophon, though these are not the most comfortable options and not recommended.
There are no buses to Banteay Chhmar.
Banteay Chhmar village, the main temple and the homestays are all close and can be easily covered on foot. Most of the satellite temples can also be reached on foot, or the CBT has bicycle rentals (US$1.50/day). There are two barays (large water reservoirs). The Mebon Baray can be walked or biked to. The Pol Pot Baray (3 km) is easier to reach by motorbike.
1 Banteay Chhmar Temple. One of Cambodia’s most important and least understood temples from the great Angkorian era. The temple is similar in style to Bayon Temple and may have originally had over 50 towers within its main enclosure. There are some stunning bas-reliefs of Khmer domestic and military life from the Angkorian era. By far, the most important and spectacular bas-reliefs are the two remaining images of the Avalokitesvara on the west gallery. The temple has suffered hundreds of years of natural decay, and in the late 20th century, was subjected to egregious acts of looting. What remains is still truly spectacular – a remote, deserted temple overgrown with trees and forest. You will experience a sense of mystical aura and have some awesome photographic opportunities. With fewer than 1,000 visitors a year, you will also most likely have the temple to yourself. Temple entrance fee is US$5 per person and is good for multi-day entrance to all the satellite temples including Banteay Torp Temple. Children under 12 are free..
2 Ta Prohm Temple (an easy walk just south of the main temple). Ta Prohm has an excellent 4-sided, Bayon-syle face tower.
3 Samnang Tasok Temple (about 1 km west of the main temple and can be reached by walking or bicycle). This rather large satellite temple also bears Bayon-style face towers and is covered in vines and jungle
4 Chinchem Trey Temple (a little more than 1 km to the north of Banteay Chhmar Temple and looks like a walking giant; it is best reached by bicycle or motorbike and can be difficult to reach in the rainy season).
5 Meborn Baray. Meborn Baray is a large reservoir constructed during the building of Banteay Chhmar Temple. It served as the primary water supply for the inhabitants of the time. The area now is protected from development and is home to a variety of birds. The baray stretches nearly 1,000 m x 1,500 m. There is a temple on the island in the middle of the baray which can be reached during the dry season. Meborn Baray is 600 m from the CBT office and can be reached by walking or biking.
6 Pol Pot Baray (Boeung Cheung Kru). This baray was constructed during the brutal Pol Pot regime under, as you can imagine, horrific conditions. Today, the baray is an important water source for the villagers in the area. The baray is about 3 km north of Banteay Chhmar and is best visited by moto, though biking may be possible during the dry season. It can be difficult to reach in the rainy season.
Temple Tour with Tour Guide. The CBT has English-speaking tour guides available. They can give you a temple tour and will also help you with your homestay arrangements and transportation needs (and anything else you may need help with). US$5 per group of 5. US$15 per group.
Traditional Music. A group of local musicians playing traditional songs and instruments. This is often performed in the temple at night during dinner (weather permitting). US$20 per group..
Rice Flattening. A traditional way of rice preparation for special occasions. You can help prepare the rice and enjoy tasting it afterwards. US$15 per group..
Ox-cart Tour. Take a 1-hour tour around Banteay Chhmar village stopping at various sites and learning about local Khmer life. US$10 per group of 4..
Kuyon (powered tractor) Trip. Kuyons can be hired to take visitors to the barays, or to Banteay Torp Temple for sightseeing and picnics. US$15 per group of 10..
Motos. The CBT does not rent motorbikes to visitors. You can ride around Banteay Chhmar with a CBT member. US$ 5-10.
1 Soieries du Mekong Silk Centre (On Hwy 56, approximately 3/4km from the CBT office). M-F 08:30-12:00 and 13:30-17:00. This is a must-see on your trip to Banteay Chhmar. High-quality silk products, some of which are sold in Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, and France. The silk centre has been training young women in the art of silk weaving since 2001. You can receive a tour of the silk-making process, try some weaving yourself and buy some beautiful. You can also visit the affiliated Enfants du Mekong School nearby.
There is no ATM in Banteay Chhmar. The closest ATM is in Sisophon. US dollars, Thai baht and Khmer riel are all accepted in the market and by the CBT.
The CBT office has a few wooden handicrafts (sculptures, candlesticks etc.) made by local villagers. Inquire if you would to see these, or to go visit the craftsmen's homes and shops.
The small market area has necessities such as toothpaste, soap, shampoo and very basic medicines.
Being so far away from a major city makes dining options somewhat limited. Whatever is available in the market usually becomes the main meal of the day. There are no Tex-Mex, Italian, or nouvelle cuisine here.
The market area starts closing down around 17:00, so eat early or, if you are not eating in the CBT restaurant, ask the Chan Rom to prepare a meal to eat later.
1 CBT Restaurant. This is your best option. The CBT has a kitchen and restaurant area where meals can be served. The CBT cooks have been trained in food safety and hygiene. Picnics and dinner in the temple can also be arranged through the CBT. There is an extra supplement for picnics and dinner in the temple depending upon group size, location and transportation needed. Breakfast, US$2; lunch and dinner, US$4.
2 Chan Rom Restaurant. In the market area, this is the restaurant under the big tree across from the moat and taxi stand. There is no menu. Basic Khmer food (look in the pots) and generally clean. US$1.00-2.50.
3 Market Stalls. There are various market stalls and sellers selling bobor (rice soup), cane juice, grilled corn, desserts, and other Khmer delicacies (crickets, anyone?). Not necessarily the most hygienic choice, but worth trying, if you are on a very tight budget. US$0.50-2.
There are no bars, nightclubs or swinging karaoke joints in Banteay Chhmar. Beer (US$0.50 can) and other drinks can be bought in various shops and there are a couple of ice sellers where you can buy ice to keep your beverages chilled.
CBT Homestays. These are the only sleeping accommodations in Banteay Chhmar. There are 8 homestays and 19 rooms. Each room has 1 double bed. The homestays are clean and basic with cotton sheets, blankets, pillows and mosquito nets. 6 homestays have Western-style toilets and shower heads. There are no rooms with air conditioning. There is electricity only from 18:00-23:00 in Banteay Chhmar. The homestays all have electricity during this time, or use batteries. Flashlights and candles are provided, as well. You will need a CBT member to help you with settling into your homestay since none of the homestay owners speak English and homestay reservations are done on a revolving basis so each homestay owner receives his or her fair share of guests. As of 2025 there are also two guesthouses with a total of 12 rooms, and a possibility to stay overnight at a tent in the temple compound which includes lunch, dinner, breakfast and a tour. All of these are booked through the CBT. Homestays: US$8-16, Guesthouse room: US$13-20, Tent in the temple: US$92.
There is electricity only from 18:00-23:00 in Banteay Chhmar.
There are no Internet facilities. If you really need to use the Internet you can ask the CBT to borrow one of their computers and/or their USB modems. Please offer some compensation.
As of early 2025 the operator Smart Mobile has spotty 4G coverage in and around Banteay Chhmar.
The most popular half-day trip is to 7 Banteay Torp Temple. This temple is 9 km south of Banteay Chhmar off of Hwy 56. The temple consists of three soaring and precarious looking towers teetering on the verge of collapse. The nearby pagoda has some beautiful wall paintings. Frequently, tourists will have a picnic lunch here on their way back to Sisophon. For groups, the CBT will arrange a kuyon for transportation. Otherwise, it is best reached by motorbike or taxi. Bicycles are not a good idea, especially in the rainy season.
Most guidebooks stop at daylight, but Banteay Chmhar’s night brings a different palette. As the sun dips behind the Dangrek foothills, the temple’s stone surfaces cool rapidly, and the surrounding fields fill with the chorus of cicadas and distant water buffalo lowing. A lantern‑lit stroll along the outer wall lets you hear the subtle echo of footsteps that once belonged to a garrison, now replaced by the rustle of grass. Local monks sometimes conduct evening chants that drift over the fields, creating an acoustic bridge between past ritual and present devotion. Packing a lightweight headlamp and a blanket for the cool night air turns a standard day trip into a sensory immersion that most tourists overlook.
Angkorian urban centre in Banteay Meanchey, Cambodia Angkorian Urban Centre in Banteay Meanchey, CambodiaBanteay Chhmar បន្ទាយឆ្មារAngkorian Urban CentreBanteay Chhmar TempleBanteay ChhmarLocation within CambodiaCoordinates: 14°4′16″N 103°5′59″E / 14.07111°N 103.09972°E / 14.07111; 103.09972CountryCambodiaProvinceBanteay MeancheyDistrictThma Puok District Banteay Chhmar is an urban centre from the Angkorian period, situated in the northwest Cambodian province Banteay Meanchey, near to the Dangrek Mountains and the border of Thailand.5 Thought to be a military centre or fortress, Banteay Chhmar is best-known for the sandstone temples, Bayon style and hydraulic system.3 514 170 Recent research has produced a more complete understanding of the site, further exploring the role of Banteay Chhmar in the region. Developed by Jayavarman VII, Banteay Chhmar is a unique example of Angkorian urbanism, dissimilar to other 'open cities' of the period.171 As a result, Banteay Chhmar has helped archaeologists to better understand Angkor, in particular, the rule of Jayavarman VII. This article contains Khmer text. Without proper rendering support, you may see question marks, boxes, or other symbols instead of Khmer script.
[edit] Relief of Lokeśvara at Banteay Chhmar Height of Banteay Chhmar[edit] Under the rule of Jayavarman II, populations moved northward, creating centres in the north and northwest of Cambodia.123-4 During the following Angkor period, Banteay Chhmar was created by Jayavarman VII and flourished between the 12th and 13th centuries C.E.185 96 Jayavarman VII is one of the best-known Khmer rulers, described as expanding and unifying Angkor throughout his reign.33 Reflecting Buddhist beliefs, Banteay Chhmar incorporates the Bayon style that was developed under Jayavarman VII. Unlike other urban centres, Banteay Chhmar was constructed in a regional, arid area and does not follow a formal grid-layout.185 172 As a result, archaeologists are uncertain about the role of Banteay Chhmar, positing military, religious, political and medical purposes.185 3 Contemporary research[edit] During the late 20th century, archaeological research in Cambodia was halted by the Cambodian Civil War. The war limited access to, and intentionally damaged, many places of archaeological and heritage significance.38 In the decades since, Cambodian and international archaeologists have worked to better understand the history of Cambodia, addressing issues of preservation, environmental management and colonial bias. The findings of colonial archaeologists continue to influence Cambodian history and heritage, upheld by problematic Orientalist perspectives.43-8 However, contemporary archaeology is increasingly led by Cambodian archaeologists and the perspectives of Khmer people, producing new methods and interpretations.56 The Cambodian Lidar Initiative (CALI) uses airborne laser scanning (ALS) to produce images of the Cambodian landscape, mapping anthropogenic change.164 The integration of Geographic Information System (GIS) with ALS data, has mapped vast urban, agricultural and hydraulic networks.165 In so doing, CALI has revealed new understandings of chronology, environment and residential life, which have been previously limited by issues of preservation.164-5 ALS data can also infer population dynamics and movement, used by GIS to map the settlement patterns of Angkor. This bares importance for a number of on-going debates within Cambodian archaeology, including urban systems, water management and the decline of Angkor.172-4 12595 ALS has been applied to the site of Banteay Chhmar, providing insight into the development and use of the site.170-1
[edit] A temple and moat at Banteay Chhmar Evidence of temples, stone structures and a hydraulic system can be found at Banteay Chhmar. The temples at Banteay Chhmar follow the Bayon style of Jayavarman VII, named after the Buddhist state temple in Angkor Thom.510 Banteay Chhmar consists of one primary temple with extended galleries and smaller, satellite temples.3 Temples were laid in cardinal directions, invoking the Supreme Buddha at the centre of the mandala.582-658 The mandala also came to represent political power, with one 'universal ruler' in control.583 The temples were primarily constructed from sandstone, thought to have been quarried from Ta Phraya at the foothill of Mount Kulen.14 The temples were then adorned with inscriptions, reliefs and statues, representing a number of religious and political ideas. Jayavarman VII oversaw unprecedented urban expansion during his reign, in particular, developing ceremonial architecture.514 Jayavarman VII promoted Mahayana Buddhism as the state religion, installing Buddhist and tantric imagery throughout Angkor.486 Banteay Chhmar was part of this development, creating spaces where people could encounter the divine.514 The temples at Banteay Chhmar display multiarmed Heruka dancing deities, alongside other tantric images such as Lokeśvara.658-9 70 In addition, reliefs record chariots, horses, elephants and foot soldiers, describing systems of military power and transport.446 Medical imagery is also present at the site, namely, carvings which denote a medicine blessing ceremony.227 Given the location of Banteay Chhmar, archaeologists have suggested that the site was part of a medical network established by Jayavarman VII.227 Unlike other 11th to 13th century C.E. temples, Banteay Chhmar did not follow a grid layout.185 171 This was confirmed by recent ALS imagery of the site, which revealed 'almost no evidence of a formal urban grid.'171 In contrast to the Angkorian model of urban development, there is little evidence of a central core, nor a successive urban complex.185 171 Archaeologists have discovered an extensive hydraulic system which helped to manage water at the site. Banteay Chmmar was located in a dry, arid region which would have fallen victim to both draughts and floods.171 As a result, water management was important to Banteay Chhmar, which developed a series of moats, channels, cannels, catchments and baray. These served to store water during the dry season, as well as clear water during the wet season.171 This system harnessed natural run-off and overflow, building slopes and channels to move water, as well as source water from the Dangrek Mountains.4 Banteay Chhmar is uniquely constructed and located, raising questions about the purpose of the site. Archaeologists have developed several interpretations, the most prominent being a 'city' or 'garrison-temple' which was periodically inhabited.185 4 In these renderings, Banteay Chhmar was an important religious, political or military centre, which played a role in cementing Angkorian power in the region.185 4
[edit] The archaeological complex of Banteay Chhmar is recognised by the UNESCO World Heritage Convention, praised for the water management system, temple complex and Buddhist motifs. However, Banteay Chmmar – along with other Angkorian sites – has undergone significant destruction and looting in the past decades.729 34-5 This has robbed the site of many valuable and portable features, including a number of reliefs and statues.729-30 34-5 Many of these items remain lost, traded to vast market networks throughout Southeast Asia.722 Tour of the Banteay Chhmar temple complex Banteay Chhmar is also a place of significance to the local community, continuing to be used by the Cambodian people long after the Angkorian period. The Global Heritage Fund and Heritage Watch have supported the local people in establishing community-based tourism.206 This calls for tourism which supports the local economy, benefits built and social infrastructure and protects regional heritage and environments.37-8 Community-based tourism aims to embed long-term and sustainable practices, often applied within remote contexts.37-8 At Banteay Chhmar, The Global Heritage Fund and Provincial Government worked to provide education, training and support to the local community, seeking to expand tourism and preserve the site. Although the practice of community-based tourism is still developing, the project has begun to benefit heritage, tourism, business and infrastructure at Banteay Chhmar.207-9 368-9 393-4