Bangkok/Rattanakosin

The Rattanakosin Kingdom was the fourth Thai Kingdom, after the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonburi Kingdoms. When the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom was destroyed and burnt by Burmese armies in 1767, a short period of chaos and Burmese occupation ensued in the lands of Siam. The resistance was led by General Taksin, a capable military leader who defeated the Burmese in one year and established the new Siamese capital in Thonburi, across the Chao Phraya River from Rattanakosin. Instead of just re-conquering Siam, he also took hold of western Cambodia, almost the entire Malay peninsula, Lanna (modern Northern Thailand), and Laos.

Despite these successes, a number of issues arose. In 1779 King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the powerful Buddhist monks. The state was in economic turmoil, with rampant corruption and famine. Many Chinese factions were discontented with the current leadership and King Taksin tried to restore order by using harsh punishments and purges. A popular general under King Taksin was General Phraya Chakri, who had successfully managed the invasion of Cambodia. While managing his armed forces in Cambodia, a rebellion throttled Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to step down. King Taksin was secretly executed. When Phraya Chakri came back from Cambodia, he was offered the throne, becoming King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty that started the Rattanakosin Period.

One of his first actions was to move the capital across the river, from Thonburi to Rattanakosin, as he believed that Rattanakosin had a more strategic location. He turned it into an artificial island with the Chao Phraya River in the west and man-made canals in the east. Chinese merchants were living in Rattanakosin at that time, but they were relocated outside of the new city walls to the area now known as Yaowarat. King Rama I restored the social and political system of the Ayutthaya Period, even imitating that city's layout and architecture in Rattanakosin — including the Grand Palace, which building plan closely resembled that of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. Even the bricks from the ruins in Ayutthaya were moved downstream to be incorporated into the new capital's grand scheme.

As the district was the result of careful 18th century urban planning, orientation in Rattanakosin is fairly straightforward. Like Ayutthaya, the focal point of the area is Sanam Luang, a wide-open royal field and the site of many ceremonies and festivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding this field are Rattanakosin's prime sights, the most important of which is the Grand Palace. Just as in Ayutthaya, part of its compound is dedicated to a royal temple, Wat Phra Kaeo, the most sacred temple of Thailand, home to the Emerald Buddha. South of the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, the temple that houses a giant reclining Buddha statue. It's best to spend a full day taking in these shimmering beauties. The Chao Phraya River flows on the west side of the district, and most foreign visitors use the express boat to hop from place to place. It's also possible to walk between the sights, but carry a bottle of water and dress lightly for the weather.

Banglamphu, including Khao San Road and Rambuttri, forms the north-western edge of Rattanakosin and is known for budget accommodation and nightlife. While it is geographically part of the district, its atmosphere differs noticeably from the ceremonial and historic core around Sanam Luang and the Grand Palace. Walking from Khao San Road to the Grand Palace takes around 15–20 minutes.

1 Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Rd (Under the Phra Pin Klao Bridge), ☏ +66 2 225-7612(-4). 09:00-19:00 daily. It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.

Chao Phraya River

The best way to get in Rattanakosin is by Chao Phraya Express Boat. Besides a relatively quick and convenient way of travel, it is also much more enjoyable than looking at cars stuck in traffic while inhaling exhaust gases. The wind from the river is a relaxed way to cool down from tropical temperatures, too.

If you're coming from the city centre, you can use the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto the express boat. A single trip from Saphan Taksin to Tha Chang (near the Grand Palace) takes about 30 minutes and costs 15 baht. Other notable stops include Tha Tien (for Wat Pho), Phra Arthit (for Khao San Road) and Thewet (for Dusit). It is best to take the orange flag boats, as yellow flag boats miss out on many important stops.

From Tha Tien (Wat Pho), you can take a ferry shuttle to Wat Arun, across the river at the Thonburi side. Ferries leave every 10 minutes for just 3 baht. As many students from the universities live across the river in Thonburi, there are plenty of other commuter ferries that cross the river. Tha Chang has ferries to Wat Rakung and Wang Lang (Siriraj), Tha Phra Chan has ferries to Wang Lang (Siriraj), Thonburi Railway and Phra Pin Klao Bridge, and Thewet has a ferry to Wat Kharubodj.

Saen Saep Canal

Canal boat taxis ply the Saen Saep Canal, offering a cheap (15-18 baht) way to reach Rattanakosin. This route also saves having to negotiate endless traffic lights and traffic jams and offers a more scenic view of the city.

From Wat Sriboonreung in Ramkhamhaeng the boats travel on the NIDA Line as far as Pratunam, where you can switch to the Golden Mount Line that runs as far as Panfa Leelard, which is a five minute walk from Wat Saket and the Golden Mount .

En-route, the boat passes near a number of popular traveller destinations, such as Talad Bobae (for the garment market of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for Jim Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square), Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong), and Charn Issara (for Ekkamai).

As the pier names are not easy to see from the boat, it is advisable to note the number of piers to your destination and count them off as you go along. Map of route with name of piers: https://i.sstatic.net/bJJif.png

While Rattanakosin is not as chaotic as other districts, bus travel is still not a good idea. However, as public transport options are limited, going by bus can be the fastest way to get to or from Siam Square or Silom (though this is heavily depending on traffic). The road around Sanam Luang is one of the city's bus hubs, but as it is a circular road, it is quite difficult to find out where the bus is going. It is better to get on the bus in front of Tha Chang Pier (near the Grand Palace).

Ordinary bus 47 starts at Tha Tien Pier (near Wat Pho) and then passes Tha Chang Pier, Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road, Bamrung Muang Road and finally reaches MBK Center (for Siam Square). It then continues its way along Phaya Thai Road and Rama IV Road before reaching the intersection with Silom Road.

Another option is ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25, which starts at Tha Chang and then continues to Hualamphong Train Station via Charoen Krung Road (in opposite direction it will skip Charoen Krung Road and take Yaowarat Road instead). Then it continues its way along Rama IV Road passing Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm and the Silom Road intersection. From there, it heads north through Ratchadamri Road to Ratchaprasong intersection (for Siam Square), from which it heads a long way east along Phloen Chit Road and Sukhumvit Road.

Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, the 1 Grand Palace (พระบรมมหาราชวัง), ☏ +66 2 623-5500. 500 baht. , is the official residence of the King, and contains within its grounds Wat Phra Kaew (also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha). The palace was built when Bangkok was established by King Rama I, and has been expanded many times since. It covers a wide range of architectural styles, ranging from the pure Ayutthayan style of the temples to a blend of Thai and Western styles for later structures. While the King no longer lives here, a large part of the complex is used for royal residences and ceremonies and is off-limits to visitors.

Combined entry is a steep 500 baht, plus an optional 200 baht for a two-hour audio guide; Thais get in for free. Your ticket includes entry into the Dusit Palace in Dusit (valid for seven days). The Grand Palace is open every day from 08:30 to 16:30, with the last tickets sold at 15:30; ignore anyone claiming the palace is closed without official notice; this is a common scam targeting visitors. It is best to attend the Grand Palace during weekdays, as some throne halls are closed in the weekends for ceremonial purposes. A strict dress code applies for visitors to the palace. Ladies must cover their upper arms and legs down to the thigh, while men must wear long trousers and at least a t-shirt. Sarongs can be borrowed for free at the entrance, but you must leave a 200 baht deposit. On some holidays the dressing room may be closed, in which case you can rent clothes across the street for a fee. Thais seem to follow even tighter dressing regulations, such as wearing black during royal funeral ceremonies, but they understand it when foreigners do not follow those.

It can get very crowded (and hot) once the tour buses start to roll in, so getting an early start is a good idea. There are free English tours four times a day, just look for the sign after you pass the ticket gate. The palace grounds can easily be explored on your own though. Visitors are corralled along a set route. First you'll walk through Wat Phra Kaeo with the palace buildings coming right after.

2 Wat Phra Kaew, formally Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram (วัดพระศรีรัตนศาสดารามหรือวัดพระแก้ว), is the most sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. While construction of the temple was completed in 1784, it has a sanitised appearance as if it was built only yesterday. The temple houses a diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha (พระแก้วมรกต), of uncertain but long provenance and revered as the symbol of the Thai state. According to the legend, it was created in India in 43 BC after which it was taken to Sri Lanka, Cambodia and eventually Siam. Art historians, however, describe the statue as belonging to the Chiang Saen style of the 15th century, concluding it must have come from Lanna (current Northern Thailand). It was taken to Luang Prabang in the current state of Laos in 1552, and moved to Vientiane twelve years later. In 1779, in the Thonburi Period, General Chao Phraya Chakri captured Vientiane and returned the Emerald Buddha to Siam. When he was crowned as King Rama I, he moved the Emerald Buddha to its current location in Rattanakosin. Visitors line up around the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with offerings of lilies and incense. You must take off your shoes before entering the bot, and taking pictures inside is not allowed; violators will have their photo equipment confiscated. Also show respect by sitting with your feet pointing away from the Buddha. The Buddha's clothing is changed three times a year depending on the season; you can see the other outfits in the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins after the tour.

Continuing the tour, the temple consists of a series of courtyards full of chedis and buildings all in different sizes and colours. Some buildings are in gold, some are decorated with broken porcelain and there are smaller wats containing Buddhas of various poses and sizes. Also check out the enormous mural of the Ramayana that decorates the exterior wall. Other interesting structures include the group of eight prang towers, the Sri-Lankan style Phra Si Rattana Chedi, a scale model of Angkor Wat, the Royal Pantheon, among others.

Leaving Wat Phra Kaew, on the right you'll see a Chinese gate that is adorned with beautiful small porcelain pieces. Move on and you'll be guided past the beautiful palace buildings. The first you'll see is the Phra Maha Montien (พระมหามณเฑียร) complex and its accompanying buildings. This has been the residence of Siam's kings before King Rama V decided to move to the Chitralada Palace in Dusit. The Amarin Winichai Hall (พระที่นั่งอมรินทรวินิจฉัย), the building's main audience hall, can be accessed by visitors on weekdays. It was used as an audience hall welcoming foreign guests. Inside is the boat-shaped Busabok, an open sided throne topped with a spired roof. It is often used for ceremonies, such as the King's annual birthday speech.

Next up is the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall (พระที่นั่งจักรีมหาปราสาท), a building constructed in the reign of King Rama V in 1876. It was used for receiving royal guests who were monarchs or heads of state. It is built in a distinctively European neo-classical style, but with a Thai roof somewhat incongruously plopped on top. This remarkable design is the result of a dispute between King Rama V and other members of the royal family. King Rama V wanted to give the building an entirely European look, while the other members wanted the building to have distinctively Siamese spires. While unusual, it is still one of the most distinctive and memorable palace buildings in the complex. It had been used as the elephant stables; the bronze elephants are supposed to be a reminder of that. The ashes of the kings of the Chakri dynasty are housed inside. At weekdays you can enter the building for the weapons museum. At noon, in front of the building is where the changing the guard ceremony ends. The guards don't mind when you take pictures with them, just don't take it too far and stay respectful. They will not move no matter what happens.

The final large structure is the Dusit Maha Prasat Hall (พระที่นั่งดุสิตมหาปราสาท). It is a typical Thai building constructed by King Rama I in 1790. Formerly named the Inthraphisek Maha Prasat Hall, this is the first throne hall that has been constructed within the Grand Palace. When a king, queen or other important member of the royal family dies, this palace is used for the lying-in-state; the body is kept here while waiting for an auspicious date for cremation. The inside is only opened on weekdays. It houses the Phra Ratcha Banlang Pradap Muk, a wooden throne beautifully decorated with mother-of-pearl inlaid work. The beautiful Aphorn Phimok Prasat Pavilion (พระที่นั่งอาภรณ์ภิโมกข์ปราสาท) next to the building served as the King's mounting platform and as a changing room for royal processions.

4 Wat Pho, popularly known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is the largest temple of Bangkok, and probably the oldest too, as it pre-dates the founding of the capital by about 200 years. Most foreign travellers come for the much-needed picture of themselves with the enormous Reclining Buddha (พระพุทธไสยาสน์ Phra Buddhasaiyas) - the largest reclining Buddha image in Thailand and possibly the largest in the world. The list of records doesn't end there; Wat Pho is home to more than one thousand Buddha images, more than any other temple in Thailand. The temple as it appears now dates from the late 18th century, right after the founding of Rattanakosin, when King Rama I almost completely rebuilt the complex. He renamed the temple Wat Phra Chetuphon (วัดพระเชตุพน), as Thais still call it today, but the new name never really caught on in the West. Another major revamp took place in 1832 when, in the reign of King Rama III, new chapels were added and walls and pillars were decorated with inscriptions about traditional medicine. Wat Pho is often cited as Thailand's first university as, even before the temple's founding, the site was a centre of education for traditional Thai medicine.

The Wat Pho complex is divided into two walled compounds with Chetuphon Road separating them. The southern compound, Tukgawee, is barely visited as it is a working Buddhist monastery with monks residing there. The northern compound can be divided into an eastern and western courtyard. Bus loads of tourists get in using the north entrance at Thai Wang Road, stand in line to get a quick peek of the Reclining Buddha, and then quickly head off again. That's a mistake. Better take the south entrance at Chetuphon Road, which actually is the main entrance. From there, you can start exploring the complex while missing out on most of the tourist crowds. The admission fee is 300 baht, and the temple is open from 08:00 to 19:30. You can arrange an English-speaking personal guide that provides you with interesting information about the complex. This costs around 200-400 baht, depending on the size of your group (and your negotiating skills).

The main entrance is one of the 16 gates that surround the walled compound. These entrances are guarded by enormous Chinese stone giants. Most of these giants are "farang" - Westerners that wear wide-brimmed hats and hold a sword. You'll probably find these Westerners scarier than the guardian demons protecting Wat Phra Kaeo! When Siamese ships exported rice to China, they brought these statues back as ship's ballast. The entrance brings you into the eastern courtyard, which is dominated by the bot. To get to it, take a right from the entrance and then take a left before the southern viharn. At the entrance of the bot are lions that are Burmese in design. Inside the bot, on top of a big altar that contains the relics of King Rama I, is the main Buddha image, which is in Ayutthayan style. Four viharns and a total of 91 prangs and chedis surround the bot.

5 Wat Ratchabophit (วัดราชบพิตร), 2 Fuang Nakhon Rd (Tha Tien Pier), ☏ +66 2 221-1888. 05:00-20:00 daily. Built by King Rama V in 1869, it was created to keep up with the tradition that each newly-appointed monarch erected a temple to mark his reign. The temple is a mixture of local and Western styles, as the exterior of the chapel is in Thai style, but the interior copies the regal style of European monarchies. A major feature of this wat is the Royal Mausoleum on the west side of the temple grounds, which includes four white memorials in which the ashes of four Queens of King Rama V are interred. The one for Queen Savang Vadhana, grandmother of the current King, is the first on the left as you walk in eastward from the road. Free.

6 Wat Ratchanaddaram (วัดราชนัดดาราม), 2 Maha Chai Rd (Panfa Leelard Pier), ☏ +66 2 224-8807. 08:00-17:00 daily. Wat Ratchanaddaram is a temple compound built by order of King Rama III in 1846. Its main structure, Loh Prasat (โลหะปราสาท, Thai for metal castle), is easily spotted as its spires are of black iron, not the usual glittery gold. It is in a highly unusual style: the wat itself is a five-storied gleaming white structure with rows of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm and relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. A good view of Bangkok is afforded from the top tier. The 37 metal spires signify the 37 virtues towards Enlightenment. At night, the square around it is beautifully illuminated. Also check out the Buddhist market at the rear of the complex. Free.

7 Wat Ratchapradit (วัดราชประดิษฐ์สถิตมหาสีมาราม), Rachini Rd (Tha Tien Pier, next to Saranrom Park), ☏ +66 2 222-0855. 08:00-18:00 daily. This quiet and modest wat is a nice get-away from the busy street and annoying tuk-tuk drivers. This ground used to be a royal coffee plantation in the reign of King Rama III. With his personal donation, King Rama IV bought the plantation and had a small temple constructed there in 1864. His intention was to make it a Thammayut Sect temple, according to the customary practice of having three eminent temples in the capital city of the Kingdom (the others being Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana). A place of interest in the temple is the royal image hall (Phra Wihan Luang), which has mural paintings depicting royal ceremonies, including the "Legend of the Solar Eclipse" phenomenon that occurred during the reign of King Rama IV. There are some interesting artifacts in the temple, including some of King Rama IV's ashes that are now interred at the base of the Buddha. Also staged here are gifts King Rama IV got when he was installed as a monarch, such as French floor and ceiling lamps, English street lamps and a German clock that is still ticking today. Free.

11 Front Palace (วังหน้า Wang Na), Na Phra That Rd (Tha Chang Pier), ☏ +66 2 215-8173. W-Su 09:00-16:00, closed on holidays. Now the central building of the National Museum, the Front Palace used to be an enormous complex stretching from the Chao Phraya River across Sanam Luang to Lot Canal. It was built in the 18th-century, along with the Grand Palace. The Front Palace housed the heir to the throne, who was appointed by the King; usually a son or brother of the reigning monarch who bare the title "Second King" or "Vice-King". The title of Second King started in the Ayutthaya Period, but gained a significant amount of power during the Rattanakosin Period when the Second King even got its own private army and navy. This large amount of power often led to conflicts between the King and the Second King. The last to bare the title of Second King was Prince Vichaichan. In 1884, he got into a power struggle with King Rama V in an event known as the Front Palace crisis. King Rama V tried to modernise Siam in a rapid pace, and conservative forces and the nobility, including Prince Vichaichan, saw their power and influence being slowly eroded. When Prince Vichaichan got a letter threatening his life, he mobilised up to 600 of his private troops around his palace. The King also mobilised his troops, but this only underlined that the Second King's guards were more numerous and better equipped. After an explosion, a mysterious fire broke out in the Grand Palace, threatening Wat Phra Kaeo, and the Second King's troops got on their way to the Grand Palace to try to extinguish it; however this was blocked by the King's Royal Guards who feared that the fire was orchestrated by the Second King to take over the country. Afterwards King Rama V criticised the Second King for not moving all his troops to the Grand Palace, as an ancient custom dictated that the Second King's troops must actively protect the King and the Grand Palace in an emergency. King Rama V ordered his troops to surround the Front Palace, and Prince Vichaichan fled to the British embassy. After mediation, the powerful Western countries supported King Rama V, who abolished the title and introduced the Western-style "Crown Prince of Siam" for the heir apparent. Prince Vichaichan died one year later. The palace was turned into the National Museum's main building housing Thai art objects. Some walled remains of the old Front Palace complex can be found inside the Thammasat University complex. 200 baht.

12 Tha Phra Palace (วังท่าพระ), 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (Tha Chang Pier), ☏ +66 2 623-6115-21. 09:00-19:00 daily. Just outside of the Grand Palace, Wang Tha Phra Palace is now a part of Silpakorn University, where many artists started their career in the arts and humanities. In August 2010, Tha Phra Palace celebrated its 200th anniversary since its founding, and many home-grown artists were invited to make a painting about it. King Rama I built the palace for his nephew Prince Kasattiyanuchit, and since then, it has been a residence of many high-ranked princes, including King Rama III who lived here when he still was still known as Prince Krommuen Jesadabodin. The last prince to live here was Prince Naris, who moved out in 1934 when the palace was turned into an art school. The palace is a combination of Thai and European-style buildings. Just walking around the campus is a fun activity, as usually there are some art projects by students going on. 50 baht gets you into the library, which has plenty of English-language books about the Grand Palace, art, culture, religion, architecture and travel. Also in the Wang Tha Phra compound are the Silpa Bhirasri National Museum and the Art Centre Silpakorn University. Free.

13 Corrections Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์), 436 Maha Chai Rd (Panfa Leelard Pier, in the southeastern corner of Rommaninat Park), ☏ +66 2 226-1706. M-F 08:30-16:30, Sa Su hols closed, only on appointment. This used to be the location of the Bangkok Remand Prison, an old and overcrowded prison. Most of it has been torn down and turned into a public park, but three blocks, a cellblock, a side of the prison wall and two watchtowers were preserved and turned into a museum. This museum displays some of the most sadistic punishments imaginable, and these were actually carried out to offenders not that long ago. The museum can only be visited after making an appointment, but some punishment instruments can be seen from the public park outside, so you don't necessarily need to enter the museum. Free.

14 King Prajadhipok Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์พระบาทสมเด็จพระปกเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว), 2 Lan Luang Rd (Panfa Leelard Pier), ☏ +66 2 280-3413(-4). Tu-Su, hols, 09:00-16:00. The building is designed by the French-Swiss architect Charles Beguelin in 1906 in a neo-classical style that popular with King Rama VI and King Rama VII. It was renovated by the King Prajadhipok Institute to serve as a museum exhibiting a rare collection of King Rama VII's personal belongings, including photographs, documents and his biography. King Rama VII ruled in a turbulent time of Thailand's history; he was the last King who enjoyed absolute monarchy, as well as the first King under a constitutional monarchy. Significant events and stories relating to King Rama VII are exhibited, including his succession to the throne, royal activities, political reform, promulgation of the constitution, royal utensils and memorabilia, as well as his life after abdication and death in the United Kingdom. The demolished Sala Chaloem Krung Theatre that used to stand in the nearby area is imitated with old films being projected. 40 baht.

15 Museum of Siam (มิวเซียมสยาม), 4 Sanam Chai Rd (Tha Tien Pier), ☏ +66 2 225-2777. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. The renovated European-style mansion of the Ministry of Commerce of Thailand has been turned in good use. It now is the Museum of Siam, a permanent exhibition about the history of the Thai nation, its culture and its interaction with other nations and cultures. As with all the new museums in town, it's a so-called "discovery museum", in which visitors can play and interact with the objects shown. It is a lot fun, for children and adults alike, and informative at a superficial level. First you watch a subtitled short film about Thai-foreign interaction, with some Thai inside jokes about foreigners. Then you'll walk through several historically-themed rooms, starting in prehistory and ending in the modern age. Make sure your camera is charged and its memory unit empty, as there are many photo opportunities. You can sit in a tuk-tuk, prepare fake Thai food, bomb medieval armies, wear colonial-age clothing, present a news programme and sit in a 50s-style diner. 300 baht for foreigners, free entry 16:00-18:00.

18 Art Centre Silpakorn University, 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (Tha Chang Pier), ☏ +66 2 623-6120(-1418). M-F 09:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-16:00. The exhibitions on show here are created by art students, teachers and university artists from Silpakorn University, the country's first art school. The exhibitions change often, and the only way to find out what's on is by walking in. Sometimes the art centre is closed when the building is used for university meetings and summits. Free.

19 National Gallery (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ หอศิลป), Chao Fa Rd (Phra Arthit Pier), ☏ +66 2 282-2639. W-Su 09:00-16:00, hols closed. Housed in the former Royal Thai Mint, it is fairly small and compact. Obviously a matter of taste, the permanent displays could be described as quite unimpressive, but the ever-changing modern art exhibitions can be considerably more appealing for foreigners. Oil paintings by the King are also exhibited here. 30 baht.

20 The Queen's Gallery (หอศิลป์สมเด็จพระนางเจาสิริกิติ์ พระบรมราชินีนาถ), 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (Panfa Leelard Pier), ☏ +66 2 281-5360(-1). Th-Tu 10:00-19:00. This privately funded gallery was established after the request of HM Queen Sirikit who wanted a permanent venue for the exhibition of Thai arts. The gallery has four floors of contemporary and modern arts, including paintings, sculptures, audiovisual arts and even furniture arts, most of them created by students. Many paintings use elements of traditional Thai life and religion and place them in a contemporary setting. Taking pictures without using the flash is allowed. There is also a reading room and a café. 20 baht.

21 Nagaraphirom Park (สวนนาคราภิรมย์), Maha Rat Rd (Tha Tien Pier). 05:00-21:00 daily. This park opened in December 2010 beside Tha Tien Pier and the Chao Phraya River. It is quite small, but the cool river breeze makes it a nice park for taking a well-deserved rest after strolling through Rattanakosin. There is not a lot of shade, so better avoid this park when the sun strength is at its highest. A short concrete promenade gives a stunning view of Wat Arun, which is right at the other side of the river. You can make beautiful pictures of the temple during sunrise or sunset, when it changes colours. Free.

22 Rommaninat Park (สวนรมณีนาถ), Soi Siriphat (Panfa Leelard Pier), ☏ +66 2 221-5181. 05:00-20:00 daily. This public park is built on the old prison grounds of the Bangkok Remand Prison near Wat Suthat. Three blocks, a cellblock, a side of the prison wall and two watchtowers were preserved and turned into a museum, the Corrections Museum, which is at the southeastern corner of the park. The park features many fountains, some basketball courts, a playground and a weight lifting area. Free.

23 Sanam Luang (สนามหลวง), Ratchadamnoen Nai Rd (Tha Chang Pier). When Rattanakosin was established as Siam's capital, King Rama I designed this vast open field between the northern wall of the Grand Palace and the eastern wall of the former Wang Na Palace. At that time, the ground was a rice field sometimes used for royal crematoria. The ground was called "Thung Phra Men", which means crematorium ground in Thai. Considering that name was inauspicious, King Rama IV renamed the ground "Thong Sanam Luang", or the royal ground, and all rice farming there was ceased. Later, King Rama V had Wang Na's eastern wall demolished and enlarged Sanam Luang to its current size. The place has been used as the crematorium ground for kings, members of the royal family and nobility, in addition to being a royal sporting ground. 365 tamarind trees are placed around it. Sanam Luang is Bangkok's equivalent of a 'speaker's corner' where the people get together to talk politics. In recent history, the ground has been used for political rallies and demonstrations, such as the yellow and red shirt protests in the late 2000s. At December 5th, the birthday of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej, literally a million people come here to celebrate his birthday. Every night, a flea market is held on the streets surrounding it. Free.

24 Saranrom Park (สวนสราญรมย์), Saranrom Rd (Tha Tien Pier). 05:00-20:00 daily. This park was created as a royal garden in the Saranrom Palace, built in 1866 by King Rama IV. He wanted to use it after he stepped down as a monarch, but died before it was completed. When King Rama V took over, he gave the palace to his younger brothers, and turned the park into a zoo. When he built the Dusit Palace in the early 20th century, he moved all the animals to the Dusit Zoo. The park then became a property of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, before being turned into a public park in 1960. The basic layout still resembles its design by King Rama IV. It is a lush garden created around a lake, home to glasshouses, ancient trees and wooden pagodas. A great place to relax and escape the heat. After work, many locals run around the paths for exercise or do aerobics on (very) loud music. There's also a table tennis table and always someone who wants to play. At the south end of the park is a marble monument dedicated to HM Queen Sunantha Kumareerat and HRH Prince Kannaporn Phetcharat, who died in a boating accident during the reign of King Rama V. Free.

25 Bodhi Court, August 16 Rd (Tha Chang Pier, near the corner of Phra Chan Road and August 16 Road). You might stumble across a tree on a pedestal when walking from Phra Chan Market to Thammasat University. Why is this tree placed on a pedestal and decorated with garlands? Well, the tree has been linked with Thailand's struggle for democracy and the role Thammasat University has played here. The Bodhi Court is the birthplace of the 8 October 1973 student movement that grew into mass demonstrations for democracy and a new constitution. The students protested against the military junta and insisted on the release of 13 people that had been arrested for demanding a national charter. The number of protesters swelled to the hundreds of thousands and were relocated to the university's football field. On 13 October 1973 this large group of people started to move onto the streets. The following day, the government violently suppressed this mass demonstration, a key event in Thai modern history and the reason why the October 14 Memorial was erected near Khao San Road. On 4 October 1976, the Bodhi Court was the stage of an open-air stage performance that mocked the political culture of that time. When these parodies took hold of the newspapers' headlines on 6 October, the military junta violently attacked the student groups for being defamatory to the royal family. In 1991, a military coup d'état followed and a constitution was drafted that basically maintained the status quo. Students again gathered at the Bodhi Court to protest against the junta. After the 1992 general elections, the opposition to the junta gathered at the Bodhi Court, starting demonstrations that would evolve into more than 200,000 participants. The junta again cracked down in an event known as the Black May Massacre, but eventually all protesters were freed and the junta stepped down in favour of democracy. An important tree, indeed. Free.

26 City Pillar Shrine (ศาลหลักเมือง Lak Muang), Lak Muang Rd (Tha Chang Pier). 05:30-19:30 daily. According to an old Thai tradition, a city pillar has to be built upon the establishment of a new city, to provide a home for guardian spirits. King Rama I had the Bangkok city pillar erected near Wat Phra Kaeo on April 21, 1782, an astrologically determined date for the auspicious founding of Bangkok. The city pillar includes the city's horoscope inside. Every town in Thailand has a similar city pillar shrine, so there are thousands of these all across the country. The original pillar was carved out of cassia wood, measuring 75 cm thick and 27 cm high. In the reign of King Rama IV, the old dilapidated pillar was replaced by a new one that measures 270 cm in height with a wide base of 175 cm. At that time it was placed in the prang-shaped shrine as seen today. Thonburi was merged into Bangkok in 1972, and its city pillar has been incorporated in the shrine. Hundreds of locals pray and place flowers here every day, as they believe the shrine has the power to bring good luck. Traditional dance ceremonies are often held, paid by wealthy families that saw their wishes granted. Free.

Rattanakosin is the best place in Bangkok for buying amulets and other religious paraphernalia. These markets are among the most authentic ones, as they are meant for faithful Buddhist locals instead of the tourist masses.

1 Amulet Market at Wat Mahathat (ตลาดเช่าพระ วัดมหาธาตุ), Maha Rat Rd (Tha Chang Pier). 09:00-17:00 daily. Right beside the Chao Phraya River is the amulet market, an indoor warren of alleys with dozens of vendors selling amulets, charms, talismans and other religious objects. They come in all shapes and sizes, and represent various Hindu or Buddhist deities. The amulets ward off evil spirits or bring good luck and fortune. Each amulet gives a specific kind of luck, so inquire with the vendor. You can get one for as cheap as 5 baht. Better looking ones cost around 20-100 baht, or as much as you want to spend on it. More amulets can be bought at the street market at Maha Rat Road, where many sellers line up along the pavement. There are also many traditional medicine shops along this road.

2 Amulet Market at Wat Ratchanaddaram, Maha Chai Rd (Panfa Leelard Pier, at the southeastern corner of the Wat Ratchanaddaram compound). 10:00-17:00 daily. Probably the largest religious market of Bangkok with more than one hundred stalls selling everything a good Buddhist would need. You can find thousands of tiny Buddha images here, as well as Hindu figures, in all colours, shapes and sizes. Prices are generally higher than the Amulet Market at Wat Mahathat, but so is quality.

3 Bamrung Muang Stores, Bamrung Muang Rd (Panfa Leelard Pier, E of Wat Suthat). The road along Wat Suthat has plenty of stores selling religious items. Awesome human-sized Buddha images are on sale here, but don't even think about bringing those on the plane. You can also get item-filled buckets here to donate to monks. These buckets contain daily necessities monks might need, such as soap, toothpaste, candles, etc. Be careful when shopping here as the road is lacking a pavement in some areas.

4 Monk Bowl Village (บ้านบาตร Ban Bat), Soi Ban Bat (Panfa Leelard Pier). During the alms ceremony in the morning, in which monks at their temple receive donations of the people, the monks usually carry big bowls for receiving the donations. These bowls are known as 'bat' and have been made by hand for centuries. As factories took over the production of these bowls, most of the communities that made a living of producing them have vanished. An exception is Ban Bat, or Monk Bowl Village, a small alley near the Golden Mount with a couple of families that still make a living with the handicraft of making these bowls. Don't think this is a very authentic experience though — locals don't buy these bowls and once an interested traveller walks in, hunting season has begun. Bowl producers will follow you even outside the compound. That's why a visit can only be recommended for those who are actually interested in buying a bowl (which costs a couple of thousand baht).

With all the glitzy shopping malls in Siam Square, shopping in Rattanakosin is more traditional. Like in Khao San Road, street markets are virtually everywhere, but those in Rattanakosin are more authentic as they are set up for the locals. A phrasebook might come in handy. Expect all day markets to close in the early evenings.

5 Bobae Market (ตลาดโบ๊เบ๊), Bobae Tower, 488 Damrong Rak Rd (Talad Bobae Pier, off Krung Kasem Road), ☏ +66 2 628-1888. 06:00-18:00 daily. Bobae Market is very similar to the Pratunam Market — it's a huge garment market with wholesale prices. You must buy in bulk as that gives the best deals. And just like Pratunam, it has its own Saen Saep Express Boat pier, so it's easy to get to. The nearby Bobae Tower has 700 shops that sell the same clothes as on the market, but caters to those looking for single items. Prices are somewhat higher, but at least you are able to fit your buys in your suitcase. Not a lot of foreigners know about this place, though Russians seem to have found out about it (as the Russian signs indicate).

6 Carpentry and Wood Stores, Boriphat Rd (Panfa Leelard Pier, at the back entry of the Golden Mount). 09:00-18:00 daily. The northern end of Boriphat Road is lined up with carpentry and wood stores. These are very skilled workers, just take a look at the detailed patterns they create in the wooden doors. Taking one home is probably stretching your airline's 20 kg baggage limit though.

7 Khlong Lot Night Market, Rachini Rd (Tha Chang Pier). 18:00-04:00 daily. When dusk kicks in, the night market at Khlong Lot is set up. It starts around 18:00, but only gets interesting after 20:00. The market has been at the roads surrounding Sanam Luang for years, but was moved to its present location in 2010 when Sanam Luang was sealed off due to construction work. It's a bit like a flea market as locals put a blanket on the ground and wait for customers to buy their stuff. Expect toys, dolls, pets, shoes, bags, pants, mobile phone chargers, remotes, and other stuff. All the sellers have lamps placed besides their ware so it's easy to browse.

8 Lang Krasuang Market (หลังกระทรวงกลาโหม), Atsadang Rd (Tha Chang Pier, behind the Ministry of Defence and the Supreme Court). 09:00-21:00 daily. The name literally means "behind the Ministry" and refers to an area behind the Ministry of Defence on Atsadang Road, which runs along Lot Canal. On sale are military items such as uniforms, territorial defence student uniforms, shoes as well as travelling accessories like tents, sleeping bags and camping pots. There are shops selling musical instruments nearby.

1 Cafe Velodrome, 1st Floor, Nappiness Hotel, 517 Phra Sumen Road, Bowon Niwet (From the Democracy Monument follow Dinso Rd, turn right into Phra Sumen Rd, then left at the sign of the hotel. The cafe is a 5- to 7-min walk from the monument.), ☏ +66 94 626 6394. 07:00-16:00. Modern interior. Light and airy. Outdoor seating overlooking the Banglamphu Canal. Great coffee. All day breakfasts. OK food. Free Wi-Fi. (updated Dec 2024)

2 Foxhole, 290/4 Thanon Tanao, San Chao Pho Sua, Phra Nakhon (In a small alley off Thanon Tanao, between Trok Sathien and Bunsiri Road), ☏ +66 86 666 6432, foxholebkk@gmail.com. W-M 09:30-17:30. A hole-in-the-wall family-run cafe. Oozing with character. Small outside and inside seating areas. High quality Thai coffee. Savory pies. Pastries. Excellent all-day breakfasts. Friendly and fast service. Free Wi-Fi. Nondescript elevator music. (updated Nov 2024)

3 Jedi, 10 Boripat Road, Ban Bat, Banglamphu (Exit main gate of Wat Saket. Turn right. Jedi is a two minute walk on the left, just before the bridge.), ☏ +66 92 249 6217. Daily 08:30-17:30, 18:00-01:00.. A bright and airy cafe. Views over canal and park beyond. Small number of outdoor seats. Specialty coffee. Excellent desserts. Expensive compared to other cafes in the area. (updated Nov 2024)

4 Krisa, Na Phra Lan Rd (Tha Chang Pier), ☏ +66 2 225-2680. 10:00-18:00 daily. Small family-run cafe. Cozy and relaxed. Traditional Western-style decor. Close to the Grand Palace. Iced chocolate a specialty. Simple Thai dishes. (updated Nov 2024)

5 Rub Aroon (รับอรุณ), 310-312 Maha Rat Rd (Tha Tien Pier), ☏ +66 2 622-2312. 08:00-18:00 daily. Professional European-style café. No English signage. Opens directly onto the street with seats on the pavement. Relaxed atmosphere. Simple Thai dishes. (updated Nov 2024)

Wat Saket and Golden Mount, Banglamphu. Two coffee shops on the grounds of the temple - one to the left of the entrance of the compound and one on the staircase on the ascent of the Mount (updated Nov 2024)

6 Amorosa Bar and The Deck, 4F, Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratu Nok Yung (Tha Tien Pier), ☏ +66 2 221-9158(-9). Amorosa 17:30-01:00 daily, The Deck M-Th 11:00-22:00, F-Su 11:00-23:00. Tourist flock to the rooftop bar Amorosa for its spectacular sunset views of Wat Arun. Get there early, as there are only 20 seats in the house and you can forget a seat after 18:00. The view comes at a price, expect to pay Western rates for alcoholic drinks. Downstairs is The Deck, a restaurant serving Thai and European food, also with a view of the temple. It is recommended to make a reservation if you want to have dinner here. Mains 200-500 baht.