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Baltimore/South Baltimore
Overview
South Baltimore is the entrance point for most visitors to the city, coming in off I-95 from the south, and home to one of the city's number one attractions—Fort McHenry, as well as both the Orioles and Ravens stadiums.
Wikivoyage guide · 21 sections
▸Introduction437 chars
South Baltimore is the entrance point for most visitors to the city, coming in off I-95 from the south, and home to one of the city's number one attractions—Fort McHenry, as well as both the Orioles and Ravens stadiums. Those who dig a little further will find a vibrant dining and nightlife scene in beautiful, historic Federal Hill, as well as venerable, but less visited neighborhoods that define what it is to be authentic Baltimore.
▸Understand3,903 chars
South Baltimore was traditionally the industrial heart of Baltimore, even more so than Southeast Baltimore, but real estate in the neighborhoods closer to the Inner Harbor have soared over the past 15-20 years, seeing rampant gentrification by former suburbanites and even D.C. commuters attracted by cheap historic homes close to the city center. As with all neighborhood change, this has displaced, disrupted, and at its extreme destroyed the old local communities. On the upside, though, it has introduced a lot of good restaurants to Federal Hill, which is a fairly easy walk from the Inner Harbor hotels and the Convention Center.
Most, however, visit South Baltimore for one sight: Fort McHenry. The defense of this fort on the Chesapeake, and thus the defense of Baltimore, was pivotal in the defense of the nation in the War of 1812 against the re-invading British forces. Even more famously, the defense of the Fort saw the arrival of one Francis Scott Key, who, seeing the flag still flying after the bombardment, here composed the lyrics to the Star Spangled Banner, which later would become the U.S. National Anthem.
Anyway, on to the neighborhoods, which, like most all Baltimore neighborhoods, have fiercely independent characters:
Federal Hill is a historic neighborhood containing several bars and restaurants, named after the ratification of the Federal Constitution. In part because of its proximity to the Inner Harbor, the stadiums, and other attractions, this is both the wealthiest and most popular neighborhood with city visitors. The rowhouses, many dating back even to eighteenth century, are wonderfully restored and the streets are beautiful. There are plenty of dining options that are far better than the average places around the big hotels to the north, and nightlife is vibrant (if a little too drunken and trashy F-Sa nights).
Locust Point has a scary name, but is actually a pretty nice place to hang out and have a meal after visiting the Fort. Though the giant condominium building at Silo Point (replacing the old defunct granary) is doing its part to gentrify the neighborhood, it still retains a familiar working class, classic Baltimore community. Fans of the Wire might recognize this neighborhood as the home of the longshoreman (including Nick) from season two.
Ridgely's Delight is a small little triangular neighborhood just northwest of Camden Yards and east of Martin Luther King Jr Blvd. It's another very pretty old neighborhood with cobblestone streets, but the local pubs can be a little bland (but perfectly acceptable to hang out with fellow fans on game days). The University of Maryland Baltimore campus is just north, so you'll find plenty of college students.
▸By car1,289 chars
It's very easy to get into South Baltimore by car—it's just hard to park anywhere near the stadiums or the Harbor (Locust Point isn't too hard, though). From I-95, exits #52 for Russel St and #53 for I-395 to Light St will both take you right to the stadiums or the Inner Harbor respectively. Exit #54 will take you right into Locust Point and is well signed for Fort McHenry. The B-W Pkwy simply terminates here and turns into Russel St. The main streets running from Downtown through federal Hill and on to Locust Point are Light St to the Key Hwy to Fort Ave.
For Pigtown, the entrance is on Washington Blvd just southwest of its intersection with Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, which you can pick up from I-395 just before it terminates in the Inner Harbor, or from any westbound street from the Harbor or Downtown. Washington Blvd also runs from I-695 (just west of I-95).
Brooklyn and the other far south neighborhoods are best reached by I-695 or I-895 southbound (I-895 northbound does not have exits, since they want to force you to pay the tolls). Coming from the city, take either Washington Blvd to Patapsco Ave, which is the main road running along the very southern edge of the city, or take the Hanover St Bridge from Federal Hill (Hanover will continue southeast to Brooklyn).
▸By rail531 chars
The MARC Camden Line runs straight from Union Station in Washington, D.C. to the stadiums, but only runs on weekdays, and doesn't run very late.
The Light Rail, on the other hand, is pretty handy if you are going to the stadiums (Camden Yards for the Orioles and Hamburg St for the Ravens), Federal Hill, Westport, or even Cherry Hill. Past Cherry Hill it heads on to BWI Airport, while to the north of Camden Yards it runs past the Convention Center and Lexington Market Downtown and on through Midtown to Penn Station and beyond.
▸By bus1,133 chars
Consider Baltimore buses to be only for the adventurous, and those with a bunch of spare time on their hands. There are some good routes through South Baltimore, though—as long as they are running on time and not too crowded to board. Bus 1 is the best route around, running south from Charles Center (Charles St & Baltimore St) near the Convention Center down Light St through the center of Federal Hill, and on through Locust Point all the way to Fort McHenry itself. Bus 36 runs down Martin Luther King Blvd from Fayette downtown to Pigtown, then running the length of Washington Blvd. Bus 64 runs through Federal Hill on Light St all the way up to Penn Station and on to North Ave in Midtown, and south across the Hanover St Bridge to Cherry Hill and Brooklyn.
The purple Circulator bus runs along Charles St and Light St in Federal Hill, and goes straight north up Charles past the Washington Monument and on to Penn Station.
If you're feeling really adventurous, you could take the light rail down to the Patapsco stop and try to take Bus 14 to Annapolis. Make sure you are well armed with bus and rail schedules for that trip!
▸By water taxi119 chars
During the months of April–September, you can take Ed Kane's water taxi back and forth between the pier at Fells Point.
▸See3,057 chars
1 Babe Ruth Museum, 216 Emory St, ☏ +1 410 727-1539. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM. This museum is actually in the house where the Great Bambino himself was born. The museum isn't huge, but should be considered a can't-miss attraction for baseball fans. There is a white baseball "trail" leading from Camden Yards straight here, so it isn't hard to find. Plan to spend about a half hour looking at the exhibits on his life, and also the neat new one on the 500-homer club. $6 adults, $3 children 3-12.
2 Baltimore Museum of Industry, 1415 Key Hwy, ☏ +1 410 727-4808. Tu-Su 10AM-4PM. Baltimore's museum of the common man defies the idea that history is just about politicians, wars, and artists. You'll see recreations of a cannery, a turn of the century textile factory, a printing press, Dr Bunting's old pharmacy, and exhibits on the Domino Sugar Factory. There are plenty of good hands-on activities for kids—they can even become child laborers in the textile shop! $10/8/6 (adults/seniors/children & students).
3 Federal Hill Park, 300 Key Hwy (Just look for a really big grassy hill!). This big hilly park is one of Baltimore's best points for picture taking, as it overlooks the Inner Harbor, with great views of both the north and south skylines. You'll note that the cannons all seem to be awkwardly pointed at the city's central business district. The cause for this was the Union troops's suspicion of the famously irascible and rebellious Baltimoreans from siding with the Confederates in the Civil War (or simply from generally rioting). They set up on this well located hill to intimidate the city into submission.
4 Fort McHenry, 2400 E Fort Ave, ☏ +1 410 962-4290. 9AM-4:45PM daily. Really a must-visit for any tourist in Baltimore, this is the birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner, the United States National Anthem. The fort's military history is best known for its central role in the defense of the country in the War of 1812, simply named the Battle of Fort McHenry. At the time, Baltimore was the industrial powerhouse of the United States, and was a critical producer of ships and armaments. Fort McHenry remained relevant in future wars: a prison for captured Confederate soldiers in the Civil War, a military hospital during WWI, and again an active Coast Guard base during WWII. Since 1925 it has been designated as a National Park (and since 1939 doubly listed as a National Monument), and is today a museum, with plenty of cannons and nooks and crannies to explore. Back to the National Anthem, it was Francis Scott Key, who escaped here from British captivity in the War of 1812, and joins Edgar Allen Poe, Thurgood Marshall, and H L Mencken as a preeminent icon of the city and the eponym for dishes at restaurants, bridges, and one impressive golden statue in Bolton Hill. He might be a little sad to see that the flag is not still there. It was getting extra raggedy after all these years, and was moved to the National Museum of American History in Washington, D.C. for preservation. $15, children under 15 are free. (updated Jun 2019)
▸Do349 chars
1 Hammerjacks, 1300 Russel St, ☏ +1 302-553-2922. Home to Baltimore's premiere events and house parties. They're a bit infrequent, so check the website.
Hollywood Cinema, 5509 Oregon Ave Halethorpe. In the far-southern neighborhood of Arbutus.
2 Horseshoe Casino Baltimore, 1525 Russell St, toll-free: +1-844-777-SHOE (7463). (updated May 2018)
▸Festivals295 chars
African-American Festival (Afram). This festival to celebrate African-American culture is held every June at M&T Bank Stadium at Camden Yards. It features carnival rides, vendors selling lip-smacking soul food specialties, and musical performances by African-American artists. (updated Apr 2017)
▸Sports1,315 chars
3 M&T Bank Stadium (Baltimore Ravens), 1101 Russel St, ☏ +1 410 230-8000. Baltimore's new football team, in the form of the former Cleveland Browns, is wildly popular with locals, especially following their Superbowl wins in 2000 and 2013. As for the stadium itself, known unimpressively as "M&T Bank Stadium," but better referred to "The Bank", "The Nest", "The Asylum," or just "Ravens Stadium," is new as of 1998 and quite nice. For food, be sure to pick up some boardwalk fries. For parking, just don't. It's $40 and game day traffic is emphatically not fun.
4 Oriole Park (Baltimore Orioles), 333 W Camden St, ☏ +1 410 333-1560. The local baseball team plays at Oriole Park, better known as Camden Yards. It's often considered one of the nicest in the nation, with a retro style, but modern facilities (constructed in 1992). No name is better associated with the stadium than Cal Ripken Jr., who set the world record for playing 2,131 consecutive games on 6 September 1995, (a little less well known, but still historic, was Eddie Murray's 500th home run, exactly one year later to the date). Avoid trying to park here, for the same reasons as below for Ravens Stadium. Even when a game is not being played, the team still offers tours of the ballpark starting in March (though check their website for times).
▸Buy2,097 chars
1 The Book Escape, 805 Light St, ☏ +1 410 576-8885. 10AM-6PM daily. Federal Hill's used bookstore also has garnered several "best of Baltimore" awards from the City Paper over the years, and it is indeed a fun place for book lovers to stop in. The selection is wide and refreshingly well-organized.
2 Cross St Tobacco, 1103 Light St, ☏ +1 410 752-9220. M-Th 10AM-9PM, F-Sa 10AM-10PM, Su 11AM-6PM. This is one of Baltimore's best cigar shops, with nice owners and a pleasant cigar lounge in the back with coffee and cable TV.
Curiosity, 1000 Lancaster St #130, ☏ +1 410 727-6262. The name gives it away—you won't find whatever you were looking for, but something amongst the fun browsing inside will get your interest piqued. Good spot for gifts, particularly retro, antique, or just plain eccentric home decor.
3 Dan's Brothers, 1032 S Charles St, ☏ +1 410 752-8175. Classy shoestore with classy shoes and classy service. The selection is big, and the staff are excellent. Not a place for sneaks.
4 Funky Beehive, 920 S Charles St, ☏ +1 410 685-4483. W-Su. As the Hon-do name suggests, this is a fun place to shop for Baltimore souvenirs, with requisite hon glasses and Natty Boh apparel. Fun, eccentric gifts abound.
5 Housewerks, 1415 Bayard St, ☏ +1 410 685-8047. F-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-4PM. Baltimore's most eccentric home salvage/antiques store has an assortment of goods that is just plain strange. Even if you don't plan to buy something, a browse is certainly an interesting way to pass some time.
6 Pandora's Box, 50 E Cross St, ☏ +1 410 244-1442. M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 11AM-6PM. This funky little shop has all sorts of eclectic gifts, from home decor to jewelry to silly mugs.
7 Zelda Zen, 46 E Cross St, ☏ +1 410 625-2424. M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa-Su 10AM-6PM. Ditto the description for both Curiosity and Pandora's Box—the quirky gifts market here is fiercely competitive! Except this one also has Christmas ornaments, some clothes, and a bit of Baltimore kitsch. If this sounds appealing, you should obviously stop in both here and in Pandora's, which is virtually next door.
▸Budget3,874 chars
1 Baba's Mediterranean Kitchen, 745 E Fort Ave, ☏ +1 410 727-7482. M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM,5PM-9PM, Sa 11:30AM-9PM, Su noon-8PM. An almost startlingly good little place in Locust Point, with a Palestinian owner who knows his falafel. $9-19.
2 Barfly's, 620 E Fort Ave, ☏ +1 410 682-7227. M-F 4PM-2AM, Sa-Su noon-2AM. This is the best spot for pizza within a few blocks of the Inner Harbor, with a tasty, thick fresh dough crust, and a nice bar. $7-14.
3 Berger Cookies, 2900 Waterview Ave, ☏ +1 410 752-5175. As Natty Boh is to Baltimore beer, Berger Cookies are to Baltimore sweets. Incredibly rich, you should only ever eat one, and probably get two glasses of milk handy. The cookie is of the soft sugar variety (German vanilla wafer, to be precise), with a fudgy chocolate top so thick that it's better to think of it as an extra brownie. Berger's has been turning out these cookies for 175 years, and it's a true Baltimore tradition. You can buy them online, you can find them at Lexington Market (at De Bauffre Bakery), but adventure seekers can head straight here, to the factory itself, for the fix.
4 Byblos, 1033 Light St, ☏ +1 410 209-2495. M-Th 11AM-9:30PM, F-Sa 11AM-10PM. Whether to go to this Lebanese hole-in-the-wall or to Baba's for your Middle Eastern fix is a questions generally best determined by proximity. It is similarly excellent, cheap, friendly, and informal. But it also can claim to be one of the best places in South Baltimore for vegetarian/vegan diners. Because it is in the thick of Federal Hill, though, it will be more crowded! $9-14.
5 Cross St Market, 1065 S Charles St. M-Sa 7AM-7PM. One of Baltimore's many covered markets, this little known building houses a lot of tasty, quick, cheap food. Some local favorites include Bruce Lee's Wings, Hot Corner Lee's for the real deal Philly cheesesteaks, and O's Breakfast and Barbeque (M-Sa 7AM-5PM, and especially for that breakfast!).
6 Nick's Famous Rotisserie, 813 Washington Blvd, ☏ +1 410 539-9100. M-Th 11AM-8PM, F-Sa 11AM-9PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Nick's chicken is very very good—maybe the best chicken of any sort in the city. Beyond the scrumptious birds, roasted, smoky, spiced, juicy, succulent, the menu is a short list soul food, with the mac n' cheese and corn muffins being especially recommended (small mac n' cheese, listed as a "salad," is 99¢, so there are no excuses). They also offer subs, but it's not clear if anyone ever orders them. Nick's is not too far into Pigtown, coming from Camden Yards, and is honestly worth the walk (and putting up with the often rude staff). Carryout only, so plan to find a bench quickly. $3-9.
▸Mid-range3,074 chars
10 Abbey Burger Bistro, 1041 Marshall St, ☏ +1 443 453-9698. M 5PM-1:30AM, Tu-Su 11:30AM-1:30AM. Federal Hill's spot for loaded gourmet burgers, with a list of options long enough to keep you busy for a good 10 minutes figuring out what to order! $11-25.
11 Hersh's Pizza, 1843 Light St, ☏ +1 410 438-4948. Su M W Th 5PM-10PM, F Sa 5PM-midnight. Hersh's has garnered a lot of positive attention around town for cool ambiance, high class cocktails, craft beers on tap, and some really good gourmet pizza (and pastas). $12-25.
12 Italiano's, 2229 Washington Blvd, ☏ +1 410 468-3377. 7AM-4AM daily. The Italian food at this middle-of-nowhere spot is surprisingly quite good, unsurprisingly cheap, open until 4AM every night(!), and actually has a drive-thru for called in orders! Being in Southwest Baltimore, perhaps it's not surprising that they also have some soul food on the menu (the fried chicken is another surprisingly good dish). A simple place, no doubt, but a pretty sure bet for a solid meal. $8-26.
13 L.P. Steamers, 1100 E Fort Ave, ☏ +1 410 576-9294. 11:30AM-11PM daily (last seating for crabs usually 9PM). If you want a truly authentic Baltimore crabs/seafood experience, Locust Point has got to be the place to have it (the fact that you are further off the beaten path means a cheaper meal as well). L.P. Steamers is widely recognized as one of the city's best spots for steamed crabs, and has a nice menu of other seafood be it steamed, broiled, or deep fried. Their crabs are not served with Old Bay, but rather with a house blend of spices. While this may seem to the untrained eye to be sacrilege, remember that way back in the day just about every Maryland crab shack had its own spices—this is tradition. Rooftop dining in the summer equals fantastic views over the Inner Harbor. $7-20, crabs market price.
14 Matsuri, 1105 S Charles St, ☏ +1 410 752-8561. Lunch: M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM; dinner: Su-Th 5PM-10PM, F Sa 5PM-11PM. Matsuri is considered by many the best Japanese restaurant in the city, for its fresh sushi, crisp and tender tonkatsu, and satisfying tempura in a casual, calm environment. Not everything is perfect here, but Baltimore is not exactly a sushi destination! $5-20.
15 Maynard's, 3916 S Hanover St, ☏ +1 410 355-8924. M-F 11AM-2AM, Sa Su noon-2AM. Maynard's is somewhat of a local center for the Brooklyn neighborhood—popular for lunch and dinner in the day, and for DJs and live music after hours. The menu is assertively Baltimorean, with "hon fries," "Greektown gyros," "Bawlmer crab dip skins," "Francis Hot Key sandwiches," etc. Crab manages to show up in over half of the dishes. What the deal is with the Nixon posters is not exactly clear. $10-22.
▸Far South126 chars
17 Sorrento of Arbutus, 5401 East Drive, ☏ +1 410 242-6474, fax: +1 410-242-7694. In the far-southern neighborhood of Arbutus.
▸Drink4,641 chars
Federal Hill is packed with nightlife, and has a good number of legitimately cool venues. The weekends, in the center of the neighborhood (Cross St), are not for everyone, though. It's a frat party after 11PM or so on Friday and Saturday, and it is what it is. To be clear, we're euphemizing unabashed douchebaggery, with overuse of the word "bro," cheap hook ups, rampant littering, and not all that infrequent bar fights. Move to the outskirts of that neighborhood, though, and you'll find some real gems for any night of the week.
1 The 8 x 10, 10 E Cross St, ☏ +1 410 625-2000. Shows usually get started around 8PM. One of Baltimore's best set-up live music venues occupies a Goldilockean not-too-big, not-too-small space, although it does get overcrowded on the weekends with the weekend Federal Hill crowd. Shows tend to be rock, and the dance floor can be a very good time depending on the clientele that night.
2 Hull Street Blues Cafe, 1222 Hull St, ☏ +1 410 727-7476. M-Th 11AM-midnight, F Sa 11AM-2AM, Su 10AM-midnight. Famous above all for its excellent brunch, this older establishment that treads the line between the gentrification crowd and the neighborhood is a fine place for a reliable lunch or dinner in the middle of the week, or just for the bar (which has free shuffleboard!).
3 Idle Hour, 201 E Fort Ave, ☏ +1 410 468-0357. This is one of the best dive bars in this part of the city. Quiet, not too crowded, and away from the frat party to the north. The cocktails can actually be pretty good, and worth a slightly higher price than you would find at a more off-the-beaten-path dive bar (which would pretty much be limited to gin & tonics and rye & sodas anyway). The patrons also tend to be a bit older and more mature, and there are rumors of hipsters, although it's a little doubtful you would find any in Federal Hill.
4 Illusions Magic Bar & Lounge, 1025 S Charles St, ☏ +1 410 727-5811. W-Sa 5PM-1AM; shows on F Sa nights, 8:30PM (reservations needed). They're not kidding—this is literally a magic bar, with magicians coming in to perform. Yes, the patter is a little corny, but the tricks are cool, the atmosphere is classy, and the stiff martinis are actually pretty good. All in all, this is a nice change of pace, if you are in the mood for something different.
5 Mum's, 1132 S Hanover St, ☏ +1 410 547-7415. M-F 2PM-2AM, Sa Su 1PM-2AM. Mum's is pure Baltimore. It's dark, dank, local, loud, and free of the occasionally awful wannabe-Jersey Shore Federal Hill crowd. It has been in the neighborhood a long time, and was reasonably well known in the punk/hardcore days of the city (they still occasionally have live music). If you feel like forgetting your evening and waking up in some random part of Baltimore, or potentially another town, try some shots of "Evil." Pool table in the back.
▸Sleep259 chars
Although Federal Hill is pretty and close to major attractions, it actually is devoid of any hotels. South Baltimore really isn't the place to stay, unless you are at one of the hotels just north of the stadiums, on the verge of the Inner Harbor and Downtown.
▸Budget482 chars
1 Holiday Inn Express at the Stadiums, 1701 Russel St, ☏ +1 410 727-1818. The location is a little blah. It's very close to Ravens Stadium, which is good, but it's surrounded by gas stations for refueling before hitting the highways. While close to Federal Hill, the walk back under the highway overpass at night would be too lonely and would suggest a cab. On the upside, though, it's cheap and has parking ($15/day), as well as an outdoor pool, gym, and business center. $100-140.
▸Mid-range277 chars
2 Hampton Inn Convention Center, 550 Washington Blvd, ☏ +1 410 306-5105. If the four diamond Hilton below is too pricey, you can always sleep across the street in the Hilton-owned three diamond Hampton Inn (which actually tends to get "better for the money" reviews). $145-180.
▸Splurge791 chars
3 Hilton Baltimore, 401 W Pratt St, ☏ +1 443 573-8700. The Hilton is big, quite new, expensive, centrally located, and very nice. Big gym, heated indoor lap pool, sauna, and whirlpool. $210-280.
4 Marriott Inner Harbor at Camden Yards, 110 S Eutaw St, ☏ +1 410 962-0202. Upscale chain hotel just north of Oriole Park at Camden Yards and the M&T Bank Stadium (where the Ravens play), just a few blocks from the Convention Center. $180-300.
5 Rachael's Dowry B&B, 637 Washington Blvd, ☏ +1 410 752-0805, reservations@rachaelsdowrybedandbreakfast.com. Rachael's occupies one of the oldest surviving buildings in Historic Ridgely's Delight. This fully restored B&B is one block from the Baltimore Convention Center Hotels, the Orioles at Camden Yards, and the University of Maryland. $145-270.
▸Connect367 chars
The Federal Hill/Locust Point area actually has some pretty great coffeeshops for lazy, caffeinated wireless surfing.
1 Koba Cafe, 644 E Fort Ave, ☏ +1 410 986-0366. M-F 6:30AM-6PM, Sa Su 7:30AM-6PM. Free WiFi in a really pleasant setting, with good coffee drinks and sandwiches.
2 GameOn Bar+Arcade Fed Hill, 902 S Charles St, ☏ +1 443-343-8794. Video game parlor.
▸Stay safe446 chars
In the extreme south, particularly in and just around Cherry Hill, there are a few gang-ridden areas that you might want to avoid walking around, but for the most part South Baltimore is pretty safe, albeit looking rough around the edges. Except around the bars at closing time on weekends, Federal Hill is quite safe, Locust Point is always fine, and Pigtown is safe, if not always that friendly (definitely don't walk around there overdressed).
Facts
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Source
WBP almanac
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