Awashima

Awashima (粟島) is an island in northern Niigata with 365 inhabitants, the island has two main settlements: Uchiura (内浦) on the east coast and Kamaya (釜谷) on the west coast. The island lies far off the beaten path for both international and domestic tourists but has many nice beaches and can provide an escape from the urban centres of Tokyo and Osaka. The island is administered as a municipality, Awashimaura Village (粟島浦村).

First settled in the Jomon Period, Awashima was long the last frontier for many of Japan's northern clans and inhabited by the Emishi, an ethnic group comprised of non-Yamato and Ainu people. The Emishi were slowly pushed out by pirates and traders, causing Awashima to become a hub for trade heading to Tohoku. Awashima was also greatly impacted by the 1964 Niigata earthquake, as many structures were destroyed due to the subsequent flooding. Now Awashima is an Important Birding Area and its economy is centred around seasonal tourism and fishing, leading to its reputation for fresh fish. Like most rural areas in Japan, its population is declining.

The only way to access Awashima is by ferry or catamaran from Iwafune in Murakami. They depart regularly and are operated by Awashimakisan ☏ +81 254-55-2131. The journey by high-speed catamaran takes 60 minutes and costs ¥3860 for adults and ¥1940 for children, the slower ferry costs ¥1910 for adults and ¥960 for children, the journey takes 85 minutes. 1 Awashima's port is in the centre of Uchiura and the rest of the island is accessible from there.

1 Awashimaura Village Museum (粟島浦村資料館), 158 Uchiura, Awashimaura, ☏ +81 254 -55-2111. Jul-Aug 09:00-16:00, September-June 10:00-16:00.. On display are ancient wooden fishing boats and fishing gear, Jomon pottery and stone tools that tell the history of the island. ¥200 for adults, ¥100 for children. (updated Aug 2021)

2 Hotokezaki Observatory (ほとけざき天文台). All times. Observation deck with views of coastline, often called the best sunset spot on the island. Free. (updated Aug 2021)

3 Kanon-ji (観音寺), 158 Uchiura, Awashimaura, ☏ +81 254552222. Awashima's main temple, home to an Itabi, an ancient stupa. Free. (updated Aug 2021)

4 Makihira (牧平.). Former horse pasture turned bird watching area. Free. (updated Aug 2021)

1 Awashima Farm (あわしま牧場) (Just south of uchiura campsite), ☏ +81 80-8492-5869. 09:00-12:00 14:00-19:00. Awashima used to have many horse stables but only one now remains. ¥200 per minute if staff are pulling your horse, ¥2000 for farm tour, ¥100 per minute for lessons and independent riding. (updated Aug 2021)

2 Otohime no Yu (おと姫の湯), 1513-20 Hinomiyama, Awashimaura,, ☏ +81 254-55-2030. 11:30-19:00, closed Tuesday and Thursday. Large onsen in the centre of town. ¥400 for adults, ¥200 for children. (updated Aug 2021)

1 Awashimabaitenkumiai (粟島売店組合) (Beside village hall), ☏ +81 254552550. 7:30-15:00, everyday. Souvenir store with fishing gear, locally harvested seaweed and sweets. (updated Aug 2021)

2 Shop Kinbei (おみやげ きんべい), 1085 Kamaya, Awashimaura. Shop with local seaweed, dried octopus and other souvenirs. The only store on the island's eastern side. (updated Aug 2021)

As fishing remains a large industry on the Island fresh most local specialities involve the island's local seafood. Wappani is the island's number one dish and people say it can only be found on Awashima. Wappani is made of cooked fish, miso and negi (Japanese onion) and served in a Wappa (bowl made from cedar), the chef then adds hot water and a burnt stone that boils the water. Sashimi can also be found all around the Island with the speciality dish being sea bream as Awashima is a spawning ground for them, sea bream is usually freshest in May and June. Most guest-houses serve dinner.

1 Cafe Sosodo (カフェ そそど), 1513-10 Hinomiyama, ☏ +81 254552800. 11:30-15:30, 18:00-21:00, closed on Tuesday. Awashima's most fashionable cafe, serving cutlet, curry and croquette. (updated Aug 2021)

2 Kamome Shokudo (かもめ食堂), 1099 Kamaya, Awashimaura Village, ☏ +81 254-55-2533. 11: 00-22:00. Shokudo with various soba dishes ¥1000 for a bowl of soba. (updated Aug 2021)

3 Mikayoka (みやこや食堂), ☏ +81 254552420. Serves the islands specialities of Wappani and Sashimi along with ramen ¥700 for ramen. (updated Aug 2021)

4 Zensaburo (善三郎). 11–14:00, 18:00–23:00. Shokudo with large menu, features local ingredients Daily set meal: ¥850. (updated Aug 2021)

There are very few nightlife options in Awashima though there are options in Murakami, there are vending machines around the Island. Sake Awashima is the island's only sake brand and potato sucho is also produced. Both are said to have a clean taste.

1 Izakaya Menko (居酒屋 めんこ), 15 Uchiura, Awashimaura, ☏ +81 254552441. Izakaya with various bar snacks (updated Aug 2021)

The number of accommodations are limited to due to the island's small population and many will do it as a day-trip from Murakami due to there being more options there.

1 Kamaya Camping Ground, Kamaya, ☏ +81 254552111. Considered the dirtier of Awashima's two campsites it is also much less touristy. It is on undeveloped coast and is a perfect urban escape. Lacks basic amenities. Free to set up. (updated Aug 2021)

2 Uchiura Camping Ground (内浦キャンプ場) (Directly south of Uchiura). The more touristy of the two campsites as it's closer to the main town of Awashimaura. On flat land unlike Kamaya camp ground. There are toilets and showers. Free. (updated Aug 2021)

3 Goto (後藤). Minshuku on the Island's eastern side has a bath open from 15:00 - 20:00 ¥7700 per adult with meals, ¥6600 per children with meals, ¥4500 per person without meals. (updated Aug 2021)

4 Kanehira Ryokan (かねひら旅館), 10 Uchiura, Awashimaura Village, Iwafune District, ☏ +81 254-55-2448. An inn where tradition and the sensibility of the present generation shine. Peaceful dishes, which have been refined outside the island are served. Adults with meal ¥9,000, Children with meal ¥6,600, Person without meals ¥4,500. (updated Aug 2021)

5 Kohagi (小萩), ☏ +81 254552504. Hotel with private rooms, good food made from locally harvested ingredients and sea inspired motif. ¥7700 per adult with meals, ¥6600 per children with meals, ¥4500 per person without meals. (updated Aug 2021)

6 Minatoya (みなとや), 121 Uchiura, ☏ +81 254-55-2427. A minshuku ran by a former chanko chef and his wife who returned to their hometown, this inn serves the best (and only) chanko on the island has free wifi and has communal bath. ¥8000 per adult with meals, ¥5600 per children with meals, ¥5000 per person without meals. (updated Aug 2021)

7 Miyoshi (三吉), 136 Uchiura (7 minute walk south of port), ☏ +81 254552240. Minshuku with food and communal baths in the centre of Awashima. Comes with yukata and has amenities like Wi-Fi and a drier. ¥7700 per adult with meals, ¥6600 per children with meals, ¥4500 per person without meals. (updated Aug 2021)

8 Omusubi House (じんきち), 117 Uchiura, Awashimaura,, ☏ +81 254-55-2525. Opened by a woman trying to escape the hustle and bustle of urban life, Omusubi provides views of Awashima's coast and has a spa room. ¥4500 person on weekdays, ¥5000 per person on weekends. (updated Aug 2021)

Pocket WiFi works on the island and can be rented in Niigata. Most accommodation options have free WiFi.

The only way to leave is on the boats to Murakami, from Murakami one could head south and explore the rest of Niigata prefecture, Niigata City is only one hour south of Murakami and from there one could depart to the less remoteSado for another island adventure. To the North of Murakami lies Tsuruoka and Sakata in Yamagata Prefecture, both cities are about an hour north on the Uetsu Line and can serve as jumping off points to Dewa Sanzan. From Sakata one could depart to the even smaller Tobishima, another remote island. Yamagata Prefecture also lies east of Murakami and when travelling east one must always depart from Sakamachi station (rather than Murakami station). Yonezawa is the largest city directly east of Murakami and is a two hour journey from Murakami on the Yonesaka line.